209LikesExotek F1R
01-14-2015, 11:59 AM
#1322
I'm using 3mm. We both actually made custom plates that acts as 3mm spacers but also bolt onto the servo saver and lengthened the arm by about 8mm to help reduce the ackerman for more aggressive mid corner steering.
Something I might release later to get rid of that dreaded mid corner push these f1 cars seem to have on asphalt
Something I might release later to get rid of that dreaded mid corner push these f1 cars seem to have on asphalt
The IFS front end is AMAZING. I have never driven an F1 that is so good and I have owned most of them.
01-14-2015, 03:34 PM
#1323
01-14-2015, 04:28 PM
#1324
I'm the IFS running it on full F1R2
After selling three I still have four F1's lol
01-14-2015, 04:52 PM
#1325
I have been looking at the design we could still use the SJ servo mount as the upper arm fix point for the IFS as well, There is no extra re designing other then to make the front chassis wider for the drop screw. But having said that I may have a solution for this as well with the SJ chassis. I just need put my thinking cap on and get in the garage with some carbon offcuts. stay tuned...
Last edited by evochick; 01-14-2015 at 05:09 PM.
01-14-2015, 04:52 PM
#1326
No I am not. The SJ front end is too narrow for the droop screws. Really thinking of getting a custom chassis made, Exotek IFS front/Street Jam Rear since I hate side links and football tuning/tweak
I'm the IFS running it on full F1R2
After selling three I still have four F1's lol
I'm the IFS running it on full F1R2
After selling three I still have four F1's lol
01-14-2015, 05:25 PM
#1327
Ok I have finished my thinking it really would not be hard now I have thought about it to run an IFs on a streetjam
The STJ front chassis has the 2 countersunk holes at the front that we would just need a small carbon plate 1-1.5mm thick bolted to it for the droop screw, that's it..... It has all the required holes and we would just use the Streetjam Servo mount for the rear upper arm pivot point as with the current STJ front suspension.
Only issue I see would be keeping the extra plates secure so if they were hit would not twist but as they sit above the chassis would not be too big of an issue.
I can see me ordering some parts once I get paid this month
The STJ front chassis has the 2 countersunk holes at the front that we would just need a small carbon plate 1-1.5mm thick bolted to it for the droop screw, that's it..... It has all the required holes and we would just use the Streetjam Servo mount for the rear upper arm pivot point as with the current STJ front suspension.
Only issue I see would be keeping the extra plates secure so if they were hit would not twist but as they sit above the chassis would not be too big of an issue.
I can see me ordering some parts once I get paid this month
01-14-2015, 06:37 PM
#1329
We would just use the original STJ servo mount,
In the photo the arrow that have put in is in the same spot as the Exotek upper pivot mount, we just wouldn't use the long alloy blue extenders.
01-14-2015, 06:38 PM
#1330
no new parts are required to fit the ifs front end to the street jam. for droop screws you can either use the large pan head m3 screws commonly used on nitro sedans to secure the motor mount or use a flat head with the larger cone washer locked in place with a nut on the underside of the arm.t. approximately 1/3 of the enlarged screw head will rest on the chassis. its a little more work to set droop but it works just fine. the servo can be glued in place eliminating the need to drill for the mounts. I would recommend gluing the servo to get the right ackerman with direct servo mounting on the stj regardless of the front end used.
my question is what is everyone using in their ifs tubes? mine fit so loose that even with 600K grease they are lighter than a tamiya tube with 3K and with the recommended with aw grease there is no virtually nothing.
Has anyone tried using 12th scale shocks in place of the damper tubes? it looks like they would fit attached to the front of the arm spaced off the tower?
my question is what is everyone using in their ifs tubes? mine fit so loose that even with 600K grease they are lighter than a tamiya tube with 3K and with the recommended with aw grease there is no virtually nothing.
Has anyone tried using 12th scale shocks in place of the damper tubes? it looks like they would fit attached to the front of the arm spaced off the tower?
01-14-2015, 06:50 PM
#1331
no new parts are required to fit the ifs front end to the street jam. for droop screws you can either use the large pan head m3 screws commonly used on nitro sedans to secure the motor mount or use a flat head with the larger cone washer locked in place with a nut on the underside of the arm.t. approximately 1/3 of the enlarged screw head will rest on the chassis. its a little more work to set droop but it works just fine. the servo can be glued in place eliminating the need to drill for the mounts. I would recommend gluing the servo to get the right ackerman with direct servo mounting on the stj regardless of the front end used.
my question is what is everyone using in their ifs tubes? mine fit so loose that even with 600K grease they are lighter than a tamiya tube with 3K and with the recommended with aw grease there is no virtually nothing.
Has anyone tried using 12th scale shocks in place of the damper tubes? it looks like they would fit attached to the front of the arm spaced off the tower?
my question is what is everyone using in their ifs tubes? mine fit so loose that even with 600K grease they are lighter than a tamiya tube with 3K and with the recommended with aw grease there is no virtually nothing.
Has anyone tried using 12th scale shocks in place of the damper tubes? it looks like they would fit attached to the front of the arm spaced off the tower?
So is the STJ the same front end pretty much as the Speedpassion F1? Things might get interesting for these car owners
For the damper tubes it has to be 1milllion plus. Sticky tamiya AWG or 3Racing IFS silicone are the 2 best options.
I just finished designing machined damper tubes for the front. They will have tighter tolerances and run straighter (which allows the tighter tolerance). Hope to have in stock 1st week of Feb.
01-14-2015, 07:10 PM
#1332
for droop screws you can either use the large pan head m3 screws commonly used on nitro sedans to secure the motor mount or use a flat head with the larger cone washer locked in place with a nut on the underside of the arm.t. approximately 1/3 of the enlarged screw head will rest on the chassis.
yep will be ordering an IFS now
