Exotek F1R
#1051
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Mike,
What mfg is lower a arm plate made by. Is Exotek going to make something similiar to that plate?
I need car to rotate in the corner from my F1R I used the kit setup except for Blue Associated side spring med front springs and the battery in the middle of the chassis with Pit rear tires Tamiya kit fronts, it was great in the am practice track record fast when the treated asphalt track was the stickyest but as it start to loose grip the rear was still planted but the front had push on corner entry and I had to wait on it mid corner also. I was wondering if I run the kit fronts with no inserts and moving the battery forward in the chassis would give the car more steering without making the car unstable. I did try pit fronts but the car was inconsistent over bumps it would cause the car to over rotate not get loose just not able to run consisten laps!
Thanks
What mfg is lower a arm plate made by. Is Exotek going to make something similiar to that plate?
I need car to rotate in the corner from my F1R I used the kit setup except for Blue Associated side spring med front springs and the battery in the middle of the chassis with Pit rear tires Tamiya kit fronts, it was great in the am practice track record fast when the treated asphalt track was the stickyest but as it start to loose grip the rear was still planted but the front had push on corner entry and I had to wait on it mid corner also. I was wondering if I run the kit fronts with no inserts and moving the battery forward in the chassis would give the car more steering without making the car unstable. I did try pit fronts but the car was inconsistent over bumps it would cause the car to over rotate not get loose just not able to run consisten laps!
Thanks
#1052
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Mike,
What mfg is lower a arm plate made by. Is Exotek going to make something similiar to that plate?
I need car to rotate in the corner from my F1R I used the kit setup except for Blue Associated side spring med front springs and the battery in the middle of the chassis with Pit rear tires Tamiya kit fronts, it was great in the am practice track record fast when the treated asphalt track was the stickyest but as it start to loose grip the rear was still planted but the front had push on corner entry and I had to wait on it mid corner also. I was wondering if I run the kit fronts with no inserts and moving the battery forward in the chassis would give the car more steering without making the car unstable. I did try pit fronts but the car was inconsistent over bumps it would cause the car to over rotate not get loose just not able to run consisten laps!
Thanks
What mfg is lower a arm plate made by. Is Exotek going to make something similiar to that plate?
I need car to rotate in the corner from my F1R I used the kit setup except for Blue Associated side spring med front springs and the battery in the middle of the chassis with Pit rear tires Tamiya kit fronts, it was great in the am practice track record fast when the treated asphalt track was the stickyest but as it start to loose grip the rear was still planted but the front had push on corner entry and I had to wait on it mid corner also. I was wondering if I run the kit fronts with no inserts and moving the battery forward in the chassis would give the car more steering without making the car unstable. I did try pit fronts but the car was inconsistent over bumps it would cause the car to over rotate not get loose just not able to run consisten laps!
Thanks
That is a custom customer project. Looks killer but not to be made by us.
You are running on asphalt tracks near farm field right? 'Kit' tires would be my choice also but instead of no insert go with no belt and use stock insert. That's what works best for us anyway
As the day goes on the track gets worse from pollen and dirt? Or is the grip getting better that the steering no longer responds?
#1053
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Mike some days it is dust and pollen and yes our track has a field near by. I think last week the wind was light and the dust was minimal. I think it is oils coming up with the heat of the sun in the afternoon the temps spike after 4. Next race will be at night so the grip will get better instead of getting worse. The moisture in the air int the evening reactivates the traction we spray on the track.
I figured out what you are saying about the belts in the tires and I wish I had those tires to run in the main. The un belted tire are much softer then the belted tires. Is Exotek coming out with a lower a arm to widen the front end out to 190mm?
Thanks for the information I am impressed with the car it was much better then my F104v2, or it fits my driving style.
I figured out what you are saying about the belts in the tires and I wish I had those tires to run in the main. The un belted tire are much softer then the belted tires. Is Exotek coming out with a lower a arm to widen the front end out to 190mm?
Thanks for the information I am impressed with the car it was much better then my F104v2, or it fits my driving style.
#1054
Mike, or anyone for that matter: I'll be visiting family in Oceanside, CA pretty soon (is there a shop I can go see, Mike?). I am thinking about packing my F1R2 and heading to the Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo. But I am concerned that they'll send me away at the door since it isn't exactly a Tamiya car. Will I get turned away?
Also, never been outside before: I've got carpet queens. Any rough setup advise on switching would be appreciated, assuming they'd let me in. Thanks!
Also, never been outside before: I've got carpet queens. Any rough setup advise on switching would be appreciated, assuming they'd let me in. Thanks!
#1055
Mike, or anyone for that matter: I'll be visiting family in Oceanside, CA pretty soon (is there a shop I can go see, Mike?). I am thinking about packing my F1R2 and heading to the Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo. But I am concerned that they'll send me away at the door since it isn't exactly a Tamiya car. Will I get turned away?
Also, never been outside before: I've got carpet queens. Any rough setup advise on switching would be appreciated, assuming they'd let me in. Thanks!
Also, never been outside before: I've got carpet queens. Any rough setup advise on switching would be appreciated, assuming they'd let me in. Thanks!
This is typically my base setup at Tamiya
I find that starting with fresh rubber is best there. So newer tires would make your day a lot more enjoyable!
Front:
3.5mm hide height
8.5 degrees caster
Associated 0.016 front springs (normally my go to spring)
-1.5 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Standard Tamiya In-line front axle
2mm bump steer (the steering links should be slightly pointing down toward the center of the car at hide height “\ servo /”)
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
25 weight (Associated oil)
Tamiya fluorescent Red Spring (looks like orange though)
1mm droop (thread lock the spring retainer onto the shock shaft)
raise the rear female ball stud 6mm for better shock movement
Side Suspension:
Associated kit silver spring
10 oil in dampers
No washers under any of the side links
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
31/88 gearing (64 pitch)
Associated Diff lube on diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
pit 72 rear with tamiya kit medium tire. (belt removed with stock foam)
I sauce the tires with buggy grip
Cleaned with Tuning Haus Tire Cleaner/ Conditioner
Other:
Asphalt I run no weight on the winglet. It is actually a pretty huge change in how the car drives
Reedy Sonic 2 Motor
Reedy short pack mounted forward
LRP SXX V2 mounted in the back with optional 3-barrel capacitor
X-ray servo saver
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and front nose piece. I run the McLaren front wing (The holes line up between nose-piece and wing)
#1056
#1057
Thanks, Aaron!
I think you would be ok with a conversion F1 chassis. It is mainly all locals and practice is free. I think they mainly just want to stay away from mod x-ray sedans and that type of crowd. Saturdays at Tamiya are more for fun and relaxing. And hey Im sure its got Tamiya parts on it anyways! lol
This is typically my base setup at Tamiya
I find that starting with fresh rubber is best there. So newer tires would make your day a lot more enjoyable!
Front:
3.5mm hide height
8.5 degrees caster
Associated 0.016 front springs (normally my go to spring)
-1.5 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Standard Tamiya In-line front axle
2mm bump steer (the steering links should be slightly pointing down toward the center of the car at hide height “\ servo /”)
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
25 weight (Associated oil)
Tamiya fluorescent Red Spring (looks like orange though)
1mm droop (thread lock the spring retainer onto the shock shaft)
raise the rear female ball stud 6mm for better shock movement
Side Suspension:
Associated kit silver spring
10 oil in dampers
No washers under any of the side links
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
31/88 gearing (64 pitch)
Associated Diff lube on diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
pit 72 rear with tamiya kit medium tire. (belt removed with stock foam)
I sauce the tires with buggy grip
Cleaned with Tuning Haus Tire Cleaner/ Conditioner
Other:
Asphalt I run no weight on the winglet. It is actually a pretty huge change in how the car drives
Reedy Sonic 2 Motor
Reedy short pack mounted forward
LRP SXX V2 mounted in the back with optional 3-barrel capacitor
X-ray servo saver
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and front nose piece. I run the McLaren front wing (The holes line up between nose-piece and wing)
This is typically my base setup at Tamiya
I find that starting with fresh rubber is best there. So newer tires would make your day a lot more enjoyable!
Front:
3.5mm hide height
8.5 degrees caster
Associated 0.016 front springs (normally my go to spring)
-1.5 degrees camber
2 degrees toe out
Standard Tamiya In-line front axle
2mm bump steer (the steering links should be slightly pointing down toward the center of the car at hide height “\ servo /”)
Main Shock:
3-hole piston
25 weight (Associated oil)
Tamiya fluorescent Red Spring (looks like orange though)
1mm droop (thread lock the spring retainer onto the shock shaft)
raise the rear female ball stud 6mm for better shock movement
Side Suspension:
Associated kit silver spring
10 oil in dampers
No washers under any of the side links
Rear Pod:
Long Wheelbase
31/88 gearing (64 pitch)
Associated Diff lube on diff balls
4.0 mm ride height
Tires:
pit 72 rear with tamiya kit medium tire. (belt removed with stock foam)
I sauce the tires with buggy grip
Cleaned with Tuning Haus Tire Cleaner/ Conditioner
Other:
Asphalt I run no weight on the winglet. It is actually a pretty huge change in how the car drives
Reedy Sonic 2 Motor
Reedy short pack mounted forward
LRP SXX V2 mounted in the back with optional 3-barrel capacitor
X-ray servo saver
Tamiya F2012 Step nose body, rear wing, and front nose piece. I run the McLaren front wing (The holes line up between nose-piece and wing)
#1058
I've had a fair few people ask me about the carbon lower arm to suit the F104. Potentially enough interest to actually go to market with it. There are a few hurdles in the design that need to be overcome for a market available version but I'm continuously brainstorming.
#1059
Hey guys looking to figure out the setup on my f1r2, and am trying to understand some setup options. Moving the rear pod to the rear mount holes, the top deck for the pod to main spring back and forth, etc. What does that all do? I have only really understood sedan chassis setups. Trying to find more info on these options
#1060
Hey mike i was just wondering with the adjustable front end when you measure caster on the setup station do you use some kind of a caster doodle or do you eyeball it.. i cant get it where i am comfortable that if i set it at 2 degrees that its actually 2 degrees any tip or help would be great or just make caster doodle for us to make life easier .....By the way i ran the f1R2 this past weekend on parking lot white asphalt ...very loose ..used some tips including the stock kit tires upfront and it was amazing... car worked flawless thanks for everything. ...by the end of the day guys where looking in there pit boxes for there kit tires cause it worked so well
#1061
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
Hey mike i was just wondering with the adjustable front end when you measure caster on the setup station do you use some kind of a caster doodle or do you eyeball it.. i cant get it where i am comfortable that if i set it at 2 degrees that its actually 2 degrees any tip or help would be great or just make caster doodle for us to make life easier
#1062
#1063
Hi Mike,
Noticed your new diff assembly available on the website. Wondering if there's any issues with dirt getting between the concave disks and affecting diff smoothness with all the holes machined into the assembly?
None the less I've got a set on order to try soon.
Guessing an F1R2 complete kit can't be too far away once the IFS is out? Not exactly many parts left from a f104 now.
Noticed your new diff assembly available on the website. Wondering if there's any issues with dirt getting between the concave disks and affecting diff smoothness with all the holes machined into the assembly?
None the less I've got a set on order to try soon.
Guessing an F1R2 complete kit can't be too far away once the IFS is out? Not exactly many parts left from a f104 now.
#1064
Hi Mike,
Noticed your new diff assembly available on the website. Wondering if there's any issues with dirt getting between the concave disks and affecting diff smoothness with all the holes machined into the assembly?
None the less I've got a set on order to try soon.
Guessing an F1R2 complete kit can't be too far away once the IFS is out? Not exactly many parts left from a f104 now.
Noticed your new diff assembly available on the website. Wondering if there's any issues with dirt getting between the concave disks and affecting diff smoothness with all the holes machined into the assembly?
None the less I've got a set on order to try soon.
Guessing an F1R2 complete kit can't be too far away once the IFS is out? Not exactly many parts left from a f104 now.
#1065
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Last edited by ngo8; 07-02-2014 at 12:07 PM. Reason: mistake