Like Tree209Likes

Exotek F1R

Old 02-24-2013, 09:27 PM
  #586  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
josecarlo1129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Vegas/ Bahrain
Posts: 437
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
I had the same problem on my FGX exotek arms. I used sandpaper to grind away the balls. And used another finer sandpaper to polish them.
Thank you very much for the swift reply sir ed. Can you please hand me some tips on how to snap the ball out of the delrin arms. I tried to loosen it up by soaking then rotating it for sometime and could see the area (around the ball) getting bruised. Thanks in advance for any tips you'll be giving me. Cheers.
josecarlo1129 is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 09:59 PM
  #587  
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,191
Default

You may find that just popping the ball out and back in is enough to loosen it up. I have a pivot ball popper tool that works really good at putting the ball in but it is too big to use it to remove the ball. Basically on the pivot balls that my tool doesn't work on I'll make my own makeshift tool that works on the same principal. Use a really long 3mm screw cap head screw through the pivot ball. On the other side stack up some sort of washers or spacers wide enough for the ball to pass through and deep enough for the ball then cap it off with washers and a nut. Then all you got to do is tighten the screw and nut and it will pop the ball right out without damaging anything.
InspGadgt is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:27 PM
  #588  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
josecarlo1129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Vegas/ Bahrain
Posts: 437
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
You may find that just popping the ball out and back in is enough to loosen it up. I have a pivot ball popper tool that works really good at putting the ball in but it is too big to use it to remove the ball. Basically on the pivot balls that my tool doesn't work on I'll make my own makeshift tool that works on the same principal. Use a really long 3mm screw cap head screw through the pivot ball. On the other side stack up some sort of washers or spacers wide enough for the ball to pass through and deep enough for the ball then cap it off with washers and a nut. Then all you got to do is tighten the screw and nut and it will pop the ball right out without damaging anything.

Wow! Thanks! Such a life-saver, sir. I am asking expert's opinion here because I don't want to ruin an expensive part. Cheers and have a great day!
josecarlo1129 is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 04:24 AM
  #589  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 255
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default Have the same problem!

Originally Posted by josecarlo1129 View Post
Good day!

I would just like to ask if anyone here experienced some stiffness of the pivot ball when mounted on the Exotek delrin arms? I did the proper preparation of lubricating the balls before snapping it. I have no issues on the other arm. How could I resolve this? I even soaked it on a cup of lub to loosen but to no avail. I don't want to take the ball out for I might damage the delrin arm.

I emailed exotek about this. Haven't got a reply yet. TIA.
I just finished building the Exotek 104, I had the same problem with ONE of the front upper arms. One fit perfect and the other was TOO TIGHT. I used the metal pivot balls so I couldn't sand them so I took a BALL SHAPED dremel head and removed some of the material from the inside of the arm where the ball seats. It is important to take a little bit at a time and try the ball, then take a LITTLE more and try again. It took five or six times to get it to a acceptable fit.....Remember you CANT put the material back on so take your time....
TWILL is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:54 AM
  #590  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,893
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I switched to the battery back, electronics front setup with the 574/579 combo on carpet. These tires are awesome right out of the package. The car balance was excellent and consistent. Only my lack of practice is letting me down. I used SXT 3.0 for traction compound, full rear, 1/2 fronts. The car had just a little buildup after the run, but much less than everyone else. I felt much more in control yesterday.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:27 AM
  #591  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
josecarlo1129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Vegas/ Bahrain
Posts: 437
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thank you very much guys for the tips, particularly to edhchoe. It worked, sir. My delrin arm still looks like a virgin, HA. Cheers to all!

Last edited by josecarlo1129; 02-25-2013 at 07:00 AM.
josecarlo1129 is offline  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:52 AM
  #592  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 554
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys I picked up one of these brand new and it's missing the alloy shock mount that bolts to the right side of the pod is it possible to buy another one of just that part
dan200487 is offline  
Old 03-04-2013, 08:44 AM
  #593  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,893
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dan200487 View Post
Hey guys I picked up one of these brand new and it's missing the alloy shock mount that bolts to the right side of the pod is it possible to buy another one of just that part
Contact Mike @ Exotek through the website. I'm sure he has spares.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 03:43 AM
  #594  
PDR
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,928
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Hi everybody!

Just looking for some tips to improve turn-in (off power) on my F1R. For example, coming off the straight into a right hander, I seem to have too much rear grip, so it's a struggle to get the front to come around.

I'm running the F104 front-end (180mm).

I've gone up to a HPI gold spring on the center shock and 1000 CTS oil in the roll damper with silver AE side springs. I've also got quite a bit of rear pod droop (~2mm).

Overall, the car is a little on the pushy side, but on tighter tracks, it means I have to really slow to get around corners.

I'm normally running 571/572 combo on outdoor asphalt tracks. Today I had to switch to Ride R1's on the rear, since track temps were getting into the 45degC+ territory, and the poor Shimizu rears aren't fans of hotter temps.

Won't get a chance to run it again for a little while, but would welcome any thoughts. I guess I need to take away some rear grip - it seems very planted.

Phil.

PS: It was good enough to land me 3rd at the ACT Titles, but 1st and 2nd were quite a way ahead.
PDR is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 08:47 AM
  #595  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
 
MikeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 5,436
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Hi everybody!

Just looking for some tips to improve turn-in (off power) on my F1R. For example, coming off the straight into a right hander, I seem to have too much rear grip, so it's a struggle to get the front to come around.

I'm running the F104 front-end (180mm).

I've gone up to a HPI gold spring on the center shock and 1000 CTS oil in the roll damper with silver AE side springs. I've also got quite a bit of rear pod droop (~2mm).

Overall, the car is a little on the pushy side, but on tighter tracks, it means I have to really slow to get around corners.

I'm normally running 571/572 combo on outdoor asphalt tracks. Today I had to switch to Ride R1's on the rear, since track temps were getting into the 45degC+ territory, and the poor Shimizu rears aren't fans of hotter temps.

Won't get a chance to run it again for a little while, but would welcome any thoughts. I guess I need to take away some rear grip - it seems very planted.

Phil.

PS: It was good enough to land me 3rd at the ACT Titles, but 1st and 2nd were quite a way ahead.
Hi, good run.
I can suggest several things;

1 degree front CASTER
Heavier duty servo saver ( Tamiya is too soft- gives up a lot of steering response)
Soft front spring
Move the weight forward
Trim/round corners front tire insert to make insert less firm (mark this set of tires SS and use as a tuning aid by switching from these to to standard insert tires when needed)
Trim 1.5mm off the droop stop on the front arms so that you have more steering throw
A touch more drag brakes (not too much!)
Sauce front tires more/ longer

Happy racing!
MikeR is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 10:07 AM
  #596  
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,110
Default

Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
You may find that just popping the ball out and back in is enough to loosen it up. I have a pivot ball popper tool that works really good at putting the ball in but it is too big to use it to remove the ball. Basically on the pivot balls that my tool doesn't work on I'll make my own makeshift tool that works on the same principal. Use a really long 3mm screw cap head screw through the pivot ball. On the other side stack up some sort of washers or spacers wide enough for the ball to pass through and deep enough for the ball then cap it off with washers and a nut. Then all you got to do is tighten the screw and nut and it will pop the ball right out without damaging anything.
+1 and of course the same technique can be reversed to pop the ball into the ball cup. See this pic from legendary website Overrc:

http://www.overrc.com/techniques/reg...biellette1.jpg
heretic is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 12:44 PM
  #597  
PDR
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,928
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi, good run.
I can suggest several things;

1 degree front CASTER
Heavier duty servo saver ( Tamiya is too soft- gives up a lot of steering response)
Soft front spring
Move the weight forward
Trim/round corners front tire insert to make insert less firm (mark this set of tires SS and use as a tuning aid by switching from these to to standard insert tires when needed)
Trim 1.5mm off the droop stop on the front arms so that you have more steering throw
A touch more drag brakes (not too much!)
Sauce front tires more/ longer

Happy racing!
Thanks for the ideas. I guess I need to grab the adjustable front end?
PDR is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 04:45 PM
  #598  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
 
MikeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 5,436
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Thanks for the ideas. I guess I need to grab the adjustable front end?
For the win, yes
MikeR is offline  
Old 03-10-2013, 07:23 PM
  #599  
Tech Adept
 
wheelz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: orange county
Posts: 231
Default

Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Hi everybody!

Just looking for some tips to improve turn-in (off power) on my F1R. For example, coming off the straight into a right hander, I seem to have too much rear grip, so it's a struggle to get the front to come around.

I'm running the F104 front-end (180mm).

I've gone up to a HPI gold spring on the center shock and 1000 CTS oil in the roll damper with silver AE side springs. I've also got quite a bit of rear pod droop (~2mm).

Overall, the car is a little on the pushy side, but on tighter tracks, it means I have to really slow to get around corners.

I'm normally running 571/572 combo on outdoor asphalt tracks. Today I had to switch to Ride R1's on the rear, since track temps were getting into the 45degC+ territory, and the poor Shimizu rears aren't fans of hotter temps.

Won't get a chance to run it again for a little while, but would welcome any thoughts. I guess I need to take away some rear grip - it seems very planted.

Phil.

PS: It was good enough to land me 3rd at the ACT Titles, but 1st and 2nd were quite a way ahead.
i run 1mm under the front ball stud in the upper a-arm.
0.016 team associated front spring.
tamiya orange main spring
i run very little droop in the rear
10k in the tamiya aluminum damper tube
and associated green side springs in the front hole
4.5mm ride height front and rear
wheelz is offline  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:23 AM
  #600  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,893
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

My current setup is very good, but could be better.

Rear:

Kit side spring just touching
20K CRC damper grease
12 lb center spring
25 wt oil in the center damper.
1 mm sag, 2mm droop
5mm ride height
Shimizu 579s

Front:

Stock F104 Arms
1.5mm camber
Silver springs
1 mm. droop
574 fronts
Horizontal servo about 2mm back from stop.
turnbuckles in last hole on the steering upright.
turnbuckles parallel to the ground.

Symptom:

Losing steering and going mildly tight, pushing to understeer, halfway through the corner. Rear end is tracking very nice. It feels like the inside front tire is slipping when the weight transfer goes up. Either that or I have too much body roll and am running out of front droop.

Any ideas? I'm thinking stiffer front springs and heavier damping lube for the side to side damper to start.
liljohn1064 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.