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Exotek F1R

Old 03-06-2017, 05:40 PM
  #2371  
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Im using the axon spur gear now. You have to be careful with it because how the diff ball holes are molded, they provide little to no friction to keep the balls in place so when you build or take apart your diff, balls can fly everywhere. Also, they are thinner than most spur gear so the gear will never sit straight. Doesnt affect handling at all, just weird, thats all.

Ive heard people say they are brittle, but I have yet to experience that.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:25 PM
  #2372  
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Anyone know where I can get a replacement F1R3 rear pod plate?
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by f1larry View Post
Anyone know where I can get a replacement F1R3 rear pod plate?
EXOTEK 8" VINYL LOGO
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:38 PM
  #2374  
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Originally Posted by MaxSp97 View Post
Thank you. I had already found it after I posted this. I looked in the wrong section earlier. Already ordered it.
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:49 PM
  #2375  
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what spares would you recommend for a indoor carpet track. I have a f1r3 now, I have extra lower arms, I have some decent tires, electrics, but I have no tuning items or gearing. Could you guys provide me with a list of recommendations for my pit box. I dont have tuning tools either........thx for any help
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kmas View Post
what spares would you recommend for a indoor carpet track. I have a f1r3 now, I have extra lower arms, I have some decent tires, electrics, but I have no tuning items or gearing. Could you guys provide me with a list of recommendations for my pit box. I dont have tuning tools either........thx for any help
As far as tuning tools, a 4mm wrench for the turnbuckles is all you'll need for the front end. Also, the front happens to be set to 2 degrees camber, about 3 degrees toe out, and 7 degrees caster. As for the rear, the side spring preload is adjustable by thumb, and the axle ride height adjusters are from Tamiya so you should have a set. I think I sent the car to you with 1mm offset axle spacers.

I also use a tweak station, especially with the adjustable side springs, it may be possible preload the springs unevenly and get some tweak without knowing it.
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Old 03-08-2017, 09:24 AM
  #2377  
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Originally Posted by viking44 View Post
As far as tuning tools, a 4mm wrench for the turnbuckles is all you'll need for the front end. Also, the front happens to be set to 2 degrees camber, about 3 degrees toe out, and 7 degrees caster. As for the rear, the side spring preload is adjustable by thumb, and the axle ride height adjusters are from Tamiya so you should have a set. I think I sent the car to you with 1mm offset axle spacers.

I also use a tweak station, especially with the adjustable side springs, it may be possible preload the springs unevenly and get some tweak without knowing it.
What about car tuning spares, such as diff parts that wear, spur gears, suspension parts that can be changed to tune handling. Cause I got just the car you sold me and arms
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:29 PM
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Despite having open wheels it's pretty rare to break these cars when running spec motors. In fact I very rarely sell spare F1 parts.

If you want to be safe then I say an extra rear axle, spurs and axle bearings. I'm not sure what options your car has.

For tuning you want assorted tires and tire sauces- not sure what track surface you run.

Rebuild diff and re-coat dampers before each race weekend.

Once you get your car really dialed in to the track you run there's not much else to do except drive clean, adjust tire sauce as needed (sometimes no sauce) and have fun
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Despite having open wheels it's pretty rare to break these cars when running spec motors. In fact I very rarely sell spare F1 parts.

If you want to be safe then I say an extra rear axle, spurs and axle bearings. I'm not sure what options your car has.

For tuning you want assorted tires and tire sauces- not sure what track surface you run.

Rebuild diff and re-coat dampers before each race weekend.


Once you get your car really dialed in to the track you run there's not much else to do except drive clean, adjust tire sauce as needed (sometimes no sauce) and have fun
the track is black carpet. we run 25.5t motors, 2s, rubber tires. I just got a used f13r with aluminum decked adjustable top arms. thx for the info, * This is the current gearing
96/34-35, 64 pitch
there any modifications for running exotek spurs? do you still make them? thx for input everyone, Ive been going thru this thread, lots of good info.

Last edited by kmas; 03-08-2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kmas View Post
the track is black carpet. we run 25.5t motors, 2s, rubber tires. I just got a used f13r with aluminum decked adjustable top arms. thx for the info, * This is the current gearing
96/34-35, 64 pitch
there any modifications for running exotek spurs? do you still make them? thx for input everyone, Ive been going thru this thread, lots of good info.
Attached is the 'go to' base carpet set up
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
F1R3_Capet_Setup_AaronLane.pdf (445.2 KB, 71 views)
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:42 AM
  #2381  
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thx for the starting point Mike!

Last edited by kmas; 03-12-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:48 AM
  #2382  
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Anyone use this wing?
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:54 PM
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You can but not very wide. Less front end protection.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:02 AM
  #2384  
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Hi,

This year we have changed in the Uk our spec tyre for outdoor racing and yesterday it was my first time with the car and I struggled a bit to set up the car.
New tyres are Sweep hard fronts and super soft rears. I started with a standard outdoor setup and the car was undrivable, too much steering. I started to make changed to remove steering and win some traction.
I soften side springs (Yokomo purple), used lighter fluid on the tubes(10K), light fluid on the shock (400 cSt), soft centre spring (Tamiya yellow fluo), hardest front spring I had Ride gold (2.8).
At the end of the day the car was perfect on the infield, but on the fast sweeper it was suddenly diffing it out. I tried to tighten more the diff and the result improve a bit, but it was still impossible to not make the car diff out in the middle of the corner.
As I was using transverse battery, will going into in-line battery resolve the situation? Will this reduce the diff ount thing? As well I was using the side spring on the inside position, moving them to over the link will help?

Cheers
Javier
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:15 AM
  #2385  
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I am running my battery in line, how are you guys securing batteries that are slightly shorter than the battery hold? I have the aluminum chassis on my f13. thx
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