209LikesExotek F1R
06-27-2016, 09:18 AM
#2116
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
When you say "t-bar", are just just running without side springs, or are you also locking the center pivot to the main chassis using longer screws going into the two extra holes in the bottom of the chassis? It seems like that's what those two holes could be used for.
06-27-2016, 10:16 AM
#2117
Aaron
06-27-2016, 12:38 PM
#2120
Hi guys,
I spent the weekend up in Camarillo racing their BFTR. The track was often times pretty loose and dusty but the F1R3 did a great job staying straight when on power. I TQ'd and won the event in F1. I feel like my asphalt setup with the new steering rack is good enough that I wanted to get it written up and posted for you guys
The setup uses the T-bar with no side-springs. other than the t-bar and a castor change, it is not too much different than my carpet setup.
Hope you can get a chance to try it out
Aaron Lane
I spent the weekend up in Camarillo racing their BFTR. The track was often times pretty loose and dusty but the F1R3 did a great job staying straight when on power. I TQ'd and won the event in F1. I feel like my asphalt setup with the new steering rack is good enough that I wanted to get it written up and posted for you guys
The setup uses the T-bar with no side-springs. other than the t-bar and a castor change, it is not too much different than my carpet setup.
Hope you can get a chance to try it out
Aaron Lane
Congrats on your F1 TQ and Win at the BFTR X yesterday.
Your F1R3 was fast and consistent all weekend.
Thanks for all of your setup help as well.
Jeff Shaw
ActivRC
06-27-2016, 06:11 PM
#2121
Awesome running with your F1 crew in Nor Cali!
You all are a class act, much like the SoCal F1 crew.
I'll try and make it out again next year. I learned a lot about VHT sprayed tracks
Hi guys,
I spent the weekend up in Camarillo racing their BFTR. The track was often times pretty loose and dusty but the F1R3 did a great job staying straight when on power. I TQ'd and won the event in F1. I feel like my asphalt setup with the new steering rack is good enough that I wanted to get it written up and posted for you guys
The setup uses the T-bar with no side-springs. other than the t-bar and a castor change, it is not too much different than my carpet setup.
Hope you can get a chance to try it out
Aaron Lane
I spent the weekend up in Camarillo racing their BFTR. The track was often times pretty loose and dusty but the F1R3 did a great job staying straight when on power. I TQ'd and won the event in F1. I feel like my asphalt setup with the new steering rack is good enough that I wanted to get it written up and posted for you guys
The setup uses the T-bar with no side-springs. other than the t-bar and a castor change, it is not too much different than my carpet setup.
Hope you can get a chance to try it out
Aaron Lane
06-29-2016, 12:15 PM
#2124
I lock down the center football to limit side to side roll. the t-bar is used by screwing in 2 setscrews that are located on the center football section of the chassis. You want to screw them down until just barely touching the bottom side of the football. the main shock should still feel pretty much the same with the setscrews in place. if after putting in the setscrews, the main shock feels super slow or bound up then the setscrews are too tight on the football. You still have to run the side links to keep the axle straight, and i run no side springs when utilizing the t-bar function
Aaron
Aaron
Yes, the secrets out- All F1R3's have the TRF102 style t-plate for asphalt racing
2- M3x3 set screws are used as shown. Just file the tips of the set screws smooth for less wear on the nylon pivot and mount the battery with servo tape on the bottom so that the 't-plate' has extra room to flex.
The car works great this way with no side springs and using TRF102 heavy lube on both side dampers.
06-30-2016, 04:49 PM
#2126
Aaron
just make sure to sand and glue the side of the chassis before putting in the setscrews so that you do not delaminate the t-bar
I havent had a lot of luck with the ride tires because the rims break
06-30-2016, 05:53 PM
#2127
for my car, it allows the car to have a lot more exit traction. I also feel that the car is more consistent through bumps and transitional sections
Aaron
just make sure to sand and glue the side of the chassis before putting in the setscrews so that you do not delaminate the t-bar
I havent had a lot of luck with the ride tires because the rims break
Aaron
just make sure to sand and glue the side of the chassis before putting in the setscrews so that you do not delaminate the t-bar
I havent had a lot of luck with the ride tires because the rims break
I've tried them on 2 different asphalt tracks and the Shimizus have been much faster AND easier to drive.
The rides need;
1. Softer rear insert.
2. Not come premounted (I'd rather glue them myself to insure proper roundness).
3. Be much cheaper.
Maybe they work better on carpet??
06-30-2016, 06:15 PM
#2128
Yes, the secrets out- All F1R3's have the TRF102 style t-plate for asphalt racing
2- M3x3 set screws are used as shown. Just file the tips of the set screws smooth for less wear on the nylon pivot and mount the battery with servo tape on the bottom so that the 't-plate' has extra room to flex.
The car works great this way with no side springs and using TRF102 heavy lube on both side dampers.
2- M3x3 set screws are used as shown. Just file the tips of the set screws smooth for less wear on the nylon pivot and mount the battery with servo tape on the bottom so that the 't-plate' has extra room to flex.
The car works great this way with no side springs and using TRF102 heavy lube on both side dampers.
Last edited by rcdoktor2; 06-30-2016 at 06:54 PM.
07-01-2016, 06:27 AM
#2130
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
I noticed this the other night. It's actually reversed from a normal t-bar car that has the tweak screws inserted from the top. I found that you have to tighten the screw on the same side as the front tire that lifts first and back off the heavier side.