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Old 12-12-2011, 08:29 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
It's trig aka college math 112, Sine of theta will give you a workable answer but since your actually measuring from two points on the circumference the sine function is not actually accurate. When I finish calc 2 next term i will give you the right answer or if I come up with it sooner lol. Right now your finding the angle from the origin to cos Theta, which is not on the outer diameter like what your actually trying to find.
The minute difference of using the arc length (.1954) vs. the measured length (.195) between the 4 marks won't alter the answer significantly enough for it to matter in this case. Imprecise manufacturing tolerances will see to it that the marks aren't EXACTLY 4 degrees apart, making each mark nothing more than a general reference point. However, using the measurements we've obtained, we can use 4 degrees per mark as a guideline for setting the timing.

As for the recent findings with connections shorting out, I've seen several of the accounts firsthand, and can confirm that the solutions that were employed did resolve each problem. However, I think the manufacturer really needs to tighten their quality control standards, as quite a few of these motors are found to have some fault that leads to a premature failure or a non-working unit right out of the box. End users should not have to repair their motors before the first time they are used, and the installation process shouldn't weaken the internal solder joints enough to cause a potential failure.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:29 AM   #77
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That's a great idea!!
Man Rui,

you guys are all over these forums. I did not know anyone locally had posted and/or responded on this thread until after I posted my initial comments. Afterward I went and read all the posts and realized several of the "Horsham Crew" had already been "up in here"

I have not actually raced the motor after our findings, so to a degree "the acid test" has not occured yet, but at least at this point the thing runs and that's light years ahead of what I had before. I think I will attempt to forward our findings to Trinity in hopes it might help them assist any other racer who might encounter similar difficultiies. Maybe they could instruct anyone who has the same problem to try what we did, it might save sending a motor back and Trinity having to send one out.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:04 PM   #78
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The center mark is 30 degrees. So two past that would be +16 degrees. So 46 degrees of timing.

P.S. I am still waiting for confirmation that each notch is 8 degrees.

EA
Anyone ever able to get confirmation on this? My best guess was 6 degrees per notch.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:19 AM   #79
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I just bought a 17.5 yesterday and noticed while installing it that one of the solder tabs is a little loose. Anyone think this will cause a problem? I finished installing it and it works but I'm concerned about the longevity of the motor now.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:51 AM   #80
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Anyone ever able to get confirmation on this? My best guess was 6 degrees per notch.
I have it straight from Trinity that it's 8* per tick.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:56 AM   #81
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Wait, wtf was that bit about burning out a motor being under geared?, I knew they had a sweet spot, but damn, just when you think your getting your head around something, another bit of info drops into your lap...
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:57 AM   #82
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I just bought a 17.5 yesterday and noticed while installing it that one of the solder tabs is a little loose. Anyone think this will cause a problem? I finished installing it and it works but I'm concerned about the longevity of the motor now.
Nobodies experienced this with one of these Revtech motors?
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:57 PM   #83
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Nobodies experienced this with one of these Revtech motors?
Jim Dieter suggests if the tabs are loose to try to bend them over the board slightly with a pair of pliers. If they are too loose and you have a crash they could short and cause problems.

If you cant bend them, maybe a dab of glue after you solder it up just to keep it from the chance of shorting.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #84
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Jim Dieter suggests if the tabs are loose to try to bend them over the board slightly with a pair of pliers. If they are too loose and you have a crash they could short and cause problems.

If you cant bend them, maybe a dab of glue after you solder it up just to keep it from the chance of shorting.
Thanks for the response. It's funny one of the locals said not to bend the tab so I guess it's a preference. I think the glue option might be the way to go. I was definitely wearily of leaving it as is since I still will tag the wall on occasion.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:19 PM   #85
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Thanks for the response. It's funny one of the locals said not to bend the tab so I guess it's a preference. I think the glue option might be the way to go. I was definitely wearily of leaving it as is since I still will tag the wall on occasion.
Some times even the weight of the speed controls wires are enough to move the terminals on impact. I either read it or Dieter told me to do the tab deal, so I'd think thats pretty gospel. The tough part is finding the right pliers to make it happen as those tabs are pretty thick.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:42 PM   #86
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Careful with what glue you use. If you use CA, when it cures, it fumes. Even the thin deposit from fuming is conductive! NOT a good thing to have near your motor power posts.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:31 PM   #87
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Careful with what glue you use. If you use CA, when it cures, it fumes. Even the thin deposit from fuming is conductive! NOT a good thing to have near your motor power posts.
Yes, for sure, I should have specified not to use a CA, perhaps a epoxy would be much better, no fumes then.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:34 AM   #88
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I picked up a 17.5 revtech for my Touring Car, where should I be starting with the gearing and timing?

Class is 17.5 blinky, Rubber tires on Medium bite carpet. I'm running 64p gears with a 96 spur.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:08 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by briankstan View Post
I picked up a 17.5 revtech for my Touring Car, where should I be starting with the gearing and timing?

Class is 17.5 blinky, Rubber tires on Medium bite carpet. I'm running 64p gears with a 96 spur.
Last notch of timing and probably a 46 pinion to start with depending on track size.

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Old 03-14-2012, 08:10 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by briankstan View Post
I picked up a 17.5 revtech for my Touring Car, where should I be starting with the gearing and timing?

Class is 17.5 blinky, Rubber tires on Medium bite carpet. I'm running 64p gears with a 96 spur.
You should include track size. Brand of car would also help if you are looking for someone to tell you which pinion to use with your 96 spur, instead of just the FDR. They have different internal ratios.

4.0 FDR is a reasonable starting point for a medium sized track. Lower for larger tracks.

Can timing...Crank it up, but check temps often, use a fan and make sure your drivetrain is as free as it can be.
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