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Old 11-12-2011, 01:06 PM   #16
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12th scale blinky is easy, fun & inexpensive.
Not sure why you think it's harder than setting up a new $500+ sedan ?

Many of us started in this class years ago when it was the only electric class.
The only class Sean offers that is cheaper and slower is the RC18 spec class.

For carpet, 12th scale is the business, on a bumpy dusty parking lot, not so much.
Everything can be considered thx. I have a question what does blinky, and boosted, non-boosted refer to in electric rc car? I tried digging around but have not been able to understand the mean.
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:27 PM   #17
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Everything can be considered thx. I have a question what does blinky, and boosted, non-boosted refer to in electric rc car? I tried digging around but have not been able to understand the mean.
"Blinky" = non-boosted = No timing advance program in the speed control. What "Blinky" means is that there is a blinking light on the speed control to indicate that it is running in non-boosted mode. The blinking light is the requirement ROAR came up with for the race organizers to tech the cars.

Boosted = Timing advance program in the speed control.

What is the timing advance in the speed control? If you remember from your basic motor tuning when you physically advance the timing on the motor, it goes faster. However, to do that you have to take the motor apart change the timing and assemble it again. That is "fixed" timing.

What the boosted speed controls do is that it advances the timing of your brushless motor electronically through the software in the speed control. This timing is not fixed, it is dynamic. In other words, the speed control will allow you to run the slower portions of the track with less timing because you don't need it but when you go full throttle on the straight, it will advance the timing to increase staightline speed.

I compare it more like nitrous oxide in a real car. Just the same you program it for when the boost / nitrous kicks in on your full throttle run. Since you're experienced in nitro, the boost works like the 2 speed when it kicks in once you hit a certain RPM. Like the 2 speed you can adjust that except you do it with software in the speed control.

As for which speed control is right for you.... thats a whole 'nother can of worms.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:42 PM   #18
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thanks for the info.

for the guys that run at tqrcracing is the track considered to be low,med,or
high traction?
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:19 PM   #19
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thanks for the info.

for the guys that run at tqrcracing is the track considered to be low,med,or
high traction?
High grip most of the time.
For 12th scale that translates into excellent handling characteristics, and awesome corner speed.

For Sedan it's traction roll city if the setup isn't right.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:31 PM   #20
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Serious answer? What does the fast guy run in the class you want to run, and will he talk to you and give you his setup?

Can't miss!
Pfft, i hate this sheep mentality way to buying a car. Personally i recommend doing the opposite, go to the track ans see what everyone is running then buy something different to them. Just because the car is good to the fasted guy in the club and all the sheep followed him, does not make it the best car in the world. He might have bought that car cause he liked the pink alloy used in the motor mount for all you know.

All the top line cars have the potential to be winners, just take a look at who won the last 10 major and you will see all the big manufacturer names there.

As for setup, most cars come with a ball park setup that is ok, from there you need to tune it to how you like it, not how some other guy likes it. You can copy all the pro guys setups all you like and guess what, it will never make you fast. But understanding what X change can do for your car will help you get it dialed in much quicker to how you drive.

Best thing to do is start with is go to the club you will be racing at and see what classes they run, then formulate a budget and then start to see what fits into said budget, factor in things that may or may not be important, like LHS parts availability is that important to you? or can you wait 2 weeks for things to be shipped from Hong Kong? Are you a tinkerer who likes to add new performance parts over time or do you just want something that is right straight up and has little upgrade paths?

I am the only guy who drives my chassis at my club and it has not effected my performances at all, i can still ask the fast guys for advice, its just i ask questions like "I am looking for a little more rear grip, what settings can i play to help me with that" rather than "What setting you using let me copy it"

Ultimately, have fun.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:39 PM   #21
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Pfft, i hate this sheep mentality way to buying a car. Personally i recommend doing the opposite, go to the track ans see what everyone is running then buy something different to them. Just because the car is good to the fasted guy in the club and all the sheep followed him, does not make it the best car in the world. He might have bought that car cause he liked the pink alloy used in the motor mount for all you know.

All the top line cars have the potential to be winners, just take a look at who won the last 10 major and you will see all the big manufacturer names there.

As for setup, most cars come with a ball park setup that is ok, from there you need to tune it to how you like it, not how some other guy likes it. You can copy all the pro guys setups all you like and guess what, it will never make you fast. But understanding what X change can do for your car will help you get it dialed in much quicker to how you drive.

Best thing to do is start with is go to the club you will be racing at and see what classes they run, then formulate a budget and then start to see what fits into said budget, factor in things that may or may not be important, like LHS parts availability is that important to you? or can you wait 2 weeks for things to be shipped from Hong Kong? Are you a tinkerer who likes to add new performance parts over time or do you just want something that is right straight up and has little upgrade paths?

I am the only guy who drives my chassis at my club and it has not effected my performances at all, i can still ask the fast guys for advice, its just i ask questions like "I am looking for a little more rear grip, what settings can i play to help me with that" rather than "What setting you using let me copy it"

Ultimately, have fun.
You might " hate this sheep mentality way to buying a car " but it's a great way to start out if and learn if you don't already have the experience/knowledge beforehand.

Not everyone comes into the hobby as an expert, and seeing a car that you know can work is worth a 2nd look.
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:06 PM   #22
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You dont need the newest thing out.... I run a Team Associated tc5, and im running with t3, tc6, and mi4. If i learn to drive better. i could beat them right now the average lap is 16-18 seconds.. im at 20 seconds because i still bump the sides a bit....

im thinking about get the exotek tc5x chassis kit, to make it more up to date.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:12 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
You might " hate this sheep mentality way to buying a car " but it's a great way to start out if and learn if you don't already have the experience/knowledge beforehand.

Not everyone comes into the hobby as an expert, and seeing a car that you know can work is worth a 2nd look.
And if the advice is wrong you then have to go back and unlearn everything they said. Copying someone gives you a false sense of knowledge, it is much better to learn by doing that way you start to understand changes as well as have the evidence to see if it have made an improvement.

Also, gear choice for the utter noob is very important. You need to make it easy for them as possible, less wrenching and more driving, so the top guys are running ball diffs and spools in their T3's, hardly the right choice for a noob because of how easy it is for them to get it wrong, much better to give them a gear diff yeah and pack it with grease or putty because its easy and maintenance free kind of. And that's just one example of why sheep mentality car buying is wrong.
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