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Old 08-21-2014, 08:23 AM   #46
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If a bunch of people had this car to make a local class I would be all over it but as it sits wouldn't running it in a FWD mini class be kind of unfair?

Has anyone run it in a FWD mini class and how did it fare? What motors did you use to match the 21.5 blinky that are popular in mini racing lately? It's a shame IMO they didn't standardize it with a 540 size.
I want also to do that, racing mini 2wd 21.5 blinky class, but somebody tell me he can't use 540 motor nor conventional size lipo.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:36 AM   #47
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I want also to do that, racing mini 2wd 21.5 blinky class, but somebody tell me he can't use 540 motor nor conventional size lipo.
With the multitude of shorty, square & round case lipos we have in 2014, I am sure a 2s lipo of adequate capacity can fit.

I am just wondering about achieving parity between 21.5 540 sized can and a brushless 380 size can. The way I understand it the smaller OD motors will have more rpm per kV but less torque. Maybe the 380 size brushless works better for mini class cars? Never tried it but it would be an interesting comparison.
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Old 04-14-2015, 05:01 PM   #48
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Hopefully some of you guys still subscribe to this thread Still one of my favorite chassis.

I have been running:
Yeah Racing (#M06-001BU) Aluminum Front Lower Arm
Yeah Racing (#M06-002V2BU) Aluminum Rear Lower Arm

only for tricked out look, no other reason.

But I'm wondering if should try the new Tamiya arms...

Tamiya M05 Ver.II Carbon Reinforced L Parts Suspension Arms #54614

thoughts?


Last edited by torg; 04-14-2015 at 05:01 PM. Reason: i good write
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:58 PM   #49
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Torg- Thanks again on all the tips. Also thank you all for the tips on the batteries to use, how to mount to the chassis, etc. etc. Great info.

I recently got one too and boy this chassis is by far my favorite out of all the M-chassis I've owned. Runs great out of the box, amazed by how fast this tiny 380 can push with my NanoTech 40C TRA2080 2S Lipo. I am using a basic TBLE02S ECU, R614FF-E receiver, and Spektrum S6070 servo.

I don't plan on getting brushless or anything crazy because my track is very small and even with the 380 standard motor it is quite fast. I will be running the SporTuned 380 soon.

Last week and this week I have been trying to figure out the motor heat-fade problem with the 18t pinion. I tried 16t pinion, but it was just too slow and motor was still running very hot after a short 7min run. So I added a 25x25mm MuchMoreRacing fan over the motor (just a few mm above the belts using a post screwed onto one of the two screws that hold the upper deck) and this helped greatly.

I am now running a 17t pinion and can go 10min with no motor heat fade. After the 10min run my Nanotech is showing 3.84V each.
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:08 PM   #50
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Tamiya M05 Ver.II Carbon Reinforced L Parts Suspension Arms #54614

thoughts?
I have a spare tree for my ProV2, but for me, the factory MFour arms do so well, I doubt it would make much of a difference.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:18 AM   #51
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btw Tamiya #54374 is a fun addition to the m-four for those days you just want to have extra fun

Re: heat, I haven't used any fans on my m-four yet, I'm thinking it should be possible.

Another battery I just ordered is the LRP LCG (low center of gravity) series.

It looks to be ideal for the m-four to get better belt clearance. A little less run time, but that has never really been an issue for me on the 4000mah shorties I use today.
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:53 AM   #52
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btw Tamiya #54374 is a fun addition to the m-four for those days you just want to have extra fun

Re: heat, I haven't used any fans on my m-four yet, I'm thinking it should be possible.

Another battery I just ordered is the LRP LCG (low center of gravity) series.

It looks to be ideal for the m-four to get better belt clearance. A little less run time, but that has never really been an issue for me on the 4000mah shorties I use today.
Hi torg- Thanks for the pn for the drift tires. Actually in my basement track where I run these m-chassis I need all the traction I can get. I do plan on laying down Ozite later on this summer though.

Those LRP batteries look good. I don't use the servo relocation option on mine; I only use the 1/16 scale Lipo's in the stock configuration less battery holders. I can run over 12min with the standard 380 so that is plenty for me. But for you road racing warriors running those crazy brushless motors, I am sure you can use all the amps you can get from the small-ish size.


Btw, my oil diffs are leaking.. Have you guys tried the AW grease in there instead of thick damper oil? I can't have any leaks in my basement track as it makes my other m-chassis too loose.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:53 PM   #53
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Btw, my oil diffs are leaking.. Have you guys tried the AW grease in there instead of thick damper oil? I can't have any leaks in my basement track as it makes my other m-chassis too loose.
I have not tried AW grease. I have Kit tamiya clear oil in the back and kyosho 300k with green slime around the o-rings. I would not put AW grease in the rear... unless you go for those drift tires.

I would like to try 2.5mill front and 3k back for my track conditions.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:17 PM   #54
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I have not tried AW grease. I have Kit tamiya clear oil in the back and kyosho 300k with green slime around the o-rings. I would not put AW grease in the rear... unless you go for those drift tires.

I would like to try 2.5mill front and 3k back for my track conditions.
Thanks for the tip. My TT02B runs AW grease in the standard 4 bevel gearbox (similar design to the M-Four's diff) and it feels weighted, but not stubbornly tight. I was hoping to get about that level of weight.

Does the diff oil leak from the o-ring side or the big gasket side? I thought it was leaking from the big gasket side...
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:59 PM   #55
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Does the diff oil leak from the o-ring side or the big gasket side? I thought it was leaking from the big gasket side...
Is your belt oily? if yes, then it's leaking between the gear cases, otherwise out the cups around the O-rings.

There are several guides to look at for reference

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Old 04-21-2015, 06:43 AM   #56
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Is your belt oily? if yes, then it's leaking between the gear cases, otherwise out the cups around the O-rings.

There are several guides to look at for reference

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Jilles Groskamp
Thanks, yes belts are oily. I have greenslime; I will rebuild and see if it helps. Thanks!
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:51 AM   #57
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hmm, I have a leaky diff as well.


New Battery (Reedy has a low center of gravity as well but with more capacity, should have got that one)



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Old 04-22-2015, 10:41 AM   #58
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Nice battery torg! That is low profile.

I actually made a cover over the front belt using the transponder holder as a bracket so that oil doesn't splash up onto the windshield of my Rover Mini body.

I didn't get to redo the diff last night as I was working on my brushless setup on my V2.
I think I'm going to try the AW grease (not pack it full though) on the spare diff I have and try it in the rear. My car is starting to push-under now that a lot of the oil leaked out.

Hey is that the Kumamoto Bear willy tractor in the background?
I have the WildWilly2 and two 1/12 LandCruiser40 (GF01). They are fun to drive.
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:50 PM   #59
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Hey is that the Kumamoto Bear willy tractor in the background?
I have the WildWilly2 and two 1/12 LandCruiser40 (GF01). They are fun to drive.
Yeah, Kumamon WR02G
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:56 PM   #60
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Nice! Those chassis are hilarious.



Looks like my 30mm MMR fan is arriving today. Will keep this one as back up until my 25mm fan breaks down or something.

As soon as my other 17teeth Tamiya pinion comes in, I am going to install the Sport-tuned 380.
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