Chassis CA'ing who does and who doesn't ?
10-21-2011, 08:02 PM
#16
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
I did it once to my MI4 and did not to my Photon.... If its a new build do it.. Why not.. If its a rolling chassis used.. Its sence trama anyways.. Just have fun...
I have now running new to me TRF416x's... If I strip it down I will.. If I dont I wont..
I have now running new to me TRF416x's... If I strip it down I will.. If I dont I wont..
10-22-2011, 09:55 AM
#17
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
True. If all your cars do is sit on the shelf (or go straight to the For Sale forum), don't bother CA'ing them.
i have run carbon fiber pan cars and touring cars on asphalt without ca'ing and there have been no problems with the edges of the chassis.
10-22-2011, 06:19 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Buckaroo
After a hard asphalt season, I can certainly see where CA'ing the edges of my chassis have paid off. One I did, one not. Both have the normal "asphalt scuffs" on the underside, but the un-CA'd one has some areas on the edges where it appears to be delaminating.
I have several new chassis for carpet season for my TC and 12th cars. I have sanded and CA'd every edge. I don't see much reason to do anything else other than the main chassis plate, but to each his own.
I find that it takes less than 10 minutes to sand and wash off the carbon dust. I use the q-tip method to apply the CA.
Use thin CA. Twirl the q-tip tightly. Apply 5-6 drops of CA to the q-tip. Press the q-tip onto the carbon edge and twirl while sliding down the edge. Depending on the humidity level, you may or may not be able to get all the way around the part you're doing. Once the q-tip starts to fume and get hard, it's all over...DO NOT touch it to the chassis or it WILL stick! It usually takes me 1 q-tip (2 ends) and 10 drops to do a perfect edge...every time!
I've also recently taken to painting the edges. After the CA treatment, paint the edge whatever color you like, allow to dry, then CA again. Looks pretty trick.
Your mileage may vary.
On another note, I've seen 12th cars that have nicks on the chassis plate grab carpet and cause bad things.
For me, CA'ing may not be necessary, but it's cheap insurance, and I need all the help I can get.
I have several new chassis for carpet season for my TC and 12th cars. I have sanded and CA'd every edge. I don't see much reason to do anything else other than the main chassis plate, but to each his own.
I find that it takes less than 10 minutes to sand and wash off the carbon dust. I use the q-tip method to apply the CA.
Use thin CA. Twirl the q-tip tightly. Apply 5-6 drops of CA to the q-tip. Press the q-tip onto the carbon edge and twirl while sliding down the edge. Depending on the humidity level, you may or may not be able to get all the way around the part you're doing. Once the q-tip starts to fume and get hard, it's all over...DO NOT touch it to the chassis or it WILL stick! It usually takes me 1 q-tip (2 ends) and 10 drops to do a perfect edge...every time!
I've also recently taken to painting the edges. After the CA treatment, paint the edge whatever color you like, allow to dry, then CA again. Looks pretty trick.
Your mileage may vary.
On another note, I've seen 12th cars that have nicks on the chassis plate grab carpet and cause bad things.
For me, CA'ing may not be necessary, but it's cheap insurance, and I need all the help I can get.
What kind of paint do you use?
10-22-2011, 10:57 PM
#19
Tech Adept
All Carbon parts should be sealed. it tells your competition that you know how important every detail is to building a quality (fast) car, and that no detail is overlooked. Unless you are Josh C. and show up at the bigest races with a bag of parts to build a brand new car.
J-Spec will do a complete sand and seal on 1/12,1/10,F1 conversion, TC for only $30.00 satisfaction gauranteed. Just PM me.
J-Spec will do a complete sand and seal on 1/12,1/10,F1 conversion, TC for only $30.00 satisfaction gauranteed. Just PM me.
10-22-2011, 11:20 PM
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
For carpet racing, I always bevel the leading edges of the chassis on my TCs and pan cars and then fully seal them with CA. A properly preped carpet chassis makes a big difference in corner speed. Think about sharp carbon fiber edges dragging through the sweeper...could cost 2 tenths a lap.
10-23-2011, 07:45 AM
#21
Originally Posted by Applesauce
What kind of paint do you use?
I've even used black sharpie pen to get a perfect black. Fast n' easy!
Either way, let it dry/cure completely (about 24 hours works best), then seal again with CA. Makes for a very nice, shiny edge. In the event that you chip anything, the water based paint is the easiest to repair.
10-23-2011, 10:56 AM
#22
I have always C/Aed my pan cars/sedan kits. Anything with graphite or carbon fiber. That was until I found a better method. I suggest trying clear finger nail polish next time. It dries harder, you can brush it on and pinpoint the application much better onto the chassis. PLUS, it's not as messy, and you don't get that crappy white haze after the C/A dries. Just a thought.
10-23-2011, 08:16 PM
#24
I have never experienced any delaminating on any of my cars, and have never CA'ed any of my CF parts. I've been lucky so far I guess.....
10-23-2011, 08:20 PM
#25
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
I have never experienced any delaminating on any of my cars, and have never CA'ed any of my CF parts. I've been lucky so far I guess.....
Kinda like 12th scale or other classes look more well done when CA'd
It makes chassis side look like top/bottom
I actually like things dull looking vs. glossy vogue
...lol
10-23-2011, 08:55 PM
#26
We get the picture........
...lol
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