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Old 02-28-2005, 09:27 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally posted by seanyblaze
wait till u see my new spanker at regionals.....veery different

maybell
:LOL: Maybell, if it wasn't for you at last year outdoor regionals, I would have never seen this car.... then I found out Brian was actually making them last year, it was all over for me at at point.

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Old 02-28-2005, 09:46 PM   #197
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Default Twice as long?

Sean, Really.... I am still waiting for my diff to crap out. It's now 17-18 months old!!! Same balls and plates and still feels like glass. You haven't had your diff kit for more then a couple of weeks... that's why your diff is now lasting "twice as long"

The Salem track was tight and twisty. Like racing in a bath tub. It's the first track that I have raced at that has tons of grip and then would fade out in the last minute. Your car just needs to have the proper balance and you will see low laps for all 8 minutes. Nice job at 19t, Dom!

From the sound of things, we need to get back to Stockton and find out what's going on at Chris's track. The last I recall, he didn't have the corner speed that he needed. Haven't heard a word in some time from him. Maybe he's quietly stock pilling "tq's"!

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Old 03-01-2005, 06:54 AM   #198
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Hi Brian,

My track hasn't raced for a few weeks now and the last time I did race there was no one to race mod so I raced stock with a different car. I do have my MS2.2 ready to go when mod comes around again, I picked up a speed 12 shell for it and I am going to try 2 setups. A purple / white setup - so far I have found this to be the most consistant and easiest to drive but it pushes and I'm off the pace with it, I'm going to try some other tires of the same compound maybe that will give me a little more and with this shell it may get me some good times. Also I'm going to try magenta (or black) with pinks on the rear as a set up. I did try that a while back but the setup wasn't what you posted some time back. So I have a few things to try out here. I don't expect to TQ or win as the mod guys here are scary fast and I'm up a against a lot of competition - EJ Evans, Kevin Jelich, Matt Howard (when he returns) to name a few.

My feelings about the pink rear and dble pink/magenta front combo is that they don't seem to be quite as consistant and the purple / white combo. They do seem to be faster on an individual lap basis but it is not easy to string them all together for the whole 8 minutes.

What do you all think?

Chris.
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:19 AM   #199
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Chris,
Purple- white sounds like a great combo if you were building a dragster and didn't need any steering at all. I am really surprised that this is even a combo that would get you around the track at all. But then... I am not at your track. I have been running Parma pink rears with magenta fronts without side springs and Parma pinks with purple fronts with side springs and have been able to dial the car into the past 3 tracks that I have been to.

Something to look at is the castor. Eyeball from your camber gauge to your king pin to see what camber angle you have. If you have more then 5 degrees, the car will likely be miserable to drive. In future kits, I will have the caster angle be adjustable from 1,3 and 5 dgrees. The blocks can twist just enough to increase castor. I recommend that you set your castor at 5 degrees with a shim on either side, tighten the 4-40 screws holding the blocks, and then run some thin CA at the base of the blocks right to the chassis. There is no reason to remove the blocks and this helps them from moving.

Mod has been light to none at my home track too. With only a few more race nights to go, then I will be out at the gas track. Rest assured, that I will be working on the chassis all summer. I plan to hit the 2005-6 winter season hard with the car!

Brian
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:29 PM   #200
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I was looking at the car for A while, because it looks so good!
But now I am wondering something,
is there A possiblity to change the (front) Caster?
If so, how can you adjust it?
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Old 03-06-2005, 06:19 PM   #201
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i was wondering the same thing. is this a full kit or just the conversion?
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Old 03-06-2005, 07:11 PM   #202
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Is there a way that I could possibly buy just the bearing as I thinkmine is bad. I sanded all my diff rings then lubed up the balls and then put the rear axle together with the bearing races (like the directions say) and then proceeded to spin my diff while tightening it up (gradually to seat the balls into the rings while spinning it). After getting the diff to stop slipping, the thrust bearing is making some noises (like metal on metal) and is also notchy. I then removed the thrust bearing and my diff was smooth again and not binding. I did not grease the thrust race or the bearings as per instruction. I was wondering what I could do about it. I reassembled the the thrust bearing kit back on there and it was notch again. Now in the instructions it says to push the delrin spacer (with the ring edge towards the bearing) up to the 1/4 by 3/8 bearing in the hub, now is that ok to be using the flanged bearing with this application or am I supposed to replace that with a non flanged bearing? Thanks for your help!
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Old 03-06-2005, 07:40 PM   #203
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Hi Brian,

This tire combo was not on the ms2.2 (I keep that car for Mod) but on my rev3 (my stock car). I recently rebuilt this car and it is on rails for stock (unfortunately it is 15gr underweight). I have not had a chance to race the MS within the last 6 weeks or so as the mod drivers have not been turning up but I actually did try purples and white ot it. I was a little slow but I'm going to gove it another go with that set up as I changed to the speed12 shell and want to see if it will help the front end a little which is all I need. I do have to sauce 7/8 of the front tire to make it work though but it feels very consistant and easy to drive. I found the magenta's a little grabby but I have not tried your setup yet, I will get to that sometime but probably run that setup with the speed8 shell.

I did set up the castor when I first put it together but I should probably check it out to be sure. Thanks for the tip. Can you clarify something about castor for me? I always though that more castor will get you more high speed steering with more coming out of the corner (under power) and less going in. With less castor you get more initial but less when in the corner and coming out is this accurate?

Thanks Brian.

Chris.
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:43 PM   #204
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About caster:

Less caster (more vertical): Increases OFF-power steering INTO a corner, but decreases straight-line stability.
More caster (more laid-down): Increases ON-power steering OUT OF a corner, and increases straight-line stability, but makes the car harder to turn into a corner. It also makes the car more stable through bumpy track conditions.

Here's great site that explains all the adjustment terms,
RC Car Handling
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:14 PM   #205
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Default questions answered

Tekin: caster is adjust just like Associated with a shim on either side of the vertical block. I have made lexan bread clips that I can change caster quickly without taking the pin out.

Dakrat: the MS2.2 is a conversion kit. It is not practical for me to purchase up from all of the various vendors at a retail price just to resell it in a kit. If I did that, it would be well over a $400 kit... which is just silly. The kit comes with the chassis, vertical uprights, foam bumper, set up tips for stock and mod, instructions with pic's, and a shopping list to complete it.

429racer: I really feel that there is not need to sand any diff rings. That is a trick to prevent slippage. With the thrust kit, you can run your diff tighter without slippage. You need to have the 1/4x3/8" flanged bearing in the outer hub or your diff will not work. Something must not be correct with your assembly. I have a pic that shows the assembly order. If you feel that something is bad, email me and I will get it taken care of. [email protected]

Chris: Tekin is correct about caster, but I have one thing to add. If you have a lot of caster, it may make the car traction roll. Tracks with very high grip and 5+ degrees of caster can cause traction rolls. So less caster, the better turn in "off power" and more caster the beter "on power" steering you will have.
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Old 03-07-2005, 09:37 PM   #206
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Odd, I rebuilt my diffs (put in new diff balls and another new 1/4 x 3/8 flanged bearing) and broke the diff in without using the thrust bearing set and everything seems fine now. Previously I did put new bearings in but used the old diff balls. So now they are smooth as butter with the thrust bearings in there. Thanks alot for your help!
Brian
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:42 PM   #207
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If any one wanted to see on old man cry, you should have there for this one. Almost made it one race......


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Old 03-09-2005, 02:48 PM   #208
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Wow, look at all the pretty red stuff! Oh wait, what am I looking at? Oh yeah....the front arm, never seen that happened before, you must hit some or hit by some REAL hard.

Dom
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:52 PM   #209
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what did ya hit for that to happen
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:54 PM   #210
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Dom have you ever hit anything hard with your car like a board or wall
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