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Old 05-29-2005, 11:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by TigeRyan
3. Has anyone tried moving all the caster clips one way of the other?

4. I can't seem to get the cars ride height any lower then 10mm with rubber tires, obviously I will be able to go lower with foam tires as they wear, but any thoughts on this?
#3 Moving the caster clips foward will decrease steering and moving them back will give more steering.

#4 For the ride height they sell limiters so thats the shock shaft cant go down all the way decreasing ride height, they go on the inside of the shock hard to explane.

For the breaking spindles couldnt you use something like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBML5&P=7.
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Old 05-29-2005, 12:10 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
Can't get spare parts for the T-spec..... Soon to be called

"T-gone".... What good is this car if you can't get spare parts.....

thats why i dont buy trinity cars. poor parts support
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Old 05-29-2005, 01:01 PM   #18
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The parts support is sort of chicken / egg. The company has never been huge and probably relies on small time "distributors" (guys who keep all their supplies in the trunk of their cars). Those guys will carry parts that are selling well. So until the cars sell, the parts will tend to be in spotty supply. So you are waiting for the parts supply while the distributors are waiting for you to buy the car.

As for the T-SPEC car itself, it appears that the parts really are from the Kyosho V-One R series, so to some extent, the parts are already out there. I am looking at it as an interesting project car. I certainly would *not* recommend it for a beginner, unless there are active T-SPEC races going on in the area. Right now it is a car for people who already have a competitive car, who can afford an extra car for knocking around. In fact, for someone who has invested a lot in a competitive car or two, an extra car that is cheap and fun is a nice way to turn it back into a hobby.
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Old 05-29-2005, 01:14 PM   #19
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I'm thinking of getting this car so I can sorta get in the on-road world, maybe make it a project car and then go race it once a month and then go bashing the rest of the time.
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Old 05-29-2005, 05:58 PM   #20
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Seth556 wrote:

"I'm thinking of getting this car so I can sorta get in the on-road world, maybe make it a project car and then go race it once a month and then go bashing the rest of the time."

As I was saying, I would advise against it. What is your background? Have you a lot of electric off-road experience?

If you are completely new, then I would suggest a Tamiya car. The Tamiya cars cost a bit more than T-SPEC but the upgrades available can be used on competitive cars. IE, you can start from a TB-02 frame car and get suspension upgrades, and then later, buy some other really competitive car, and depending on the upgrades, you might actually still find them useful. The TB-02 can use the highest quality suspension upgrades that are being used by the Pro drivers on the TRF-415 series cars at this very minute. Actually, if you know your cars really well, you can even use them on some other brand cars, and swap-in upgrades from other top ranked cars to the TB-02. There will be a new chassis called TA-05 coming out in about another month which is a double belt car which you might want to wait for also. It will probably cost a bit more than the TB-02 cars for a while. It can also share the suspension upgrades.

Alternatively, you can buy an Associated TC-4 bottom line kit, or an HPI Pro-4 kit. I have found that the manuals for these are not as good as Tamiya (Associated maybe a bit worse than HPI in that regard, and the Associate kit in general not as well done as HPI) but have good upgrade paths. Actually, if you have a *lot* of off-road experience and are therefore, a fairly knowledgeable builder I would go HPI. From the prices I have seen lately it is the clear "best buy" for low/medium end, upgradeable cars.

Personally, for my "competitive" cars, I will probably stick to Tamiya (which I have) or I might also get a Yokomo or Kyosho for sentimental reasons (my first RC car was a used, outdated Yokomo off-road, my first competitive car was a Kyosho Optima-Mid). But the Yokomo in particular start at relatively high prices and go higher, and Kyosho does not have a touring car on the market yet.

The more I think about it, I would suggest the TB-02 car for now unless you can afford the HPI Pro-4.
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Old 05-29-2005, 06:24 PM   #21
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I will think about that but I am thinking of the xray t1r for the price and competiveness of it.
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:55 AM   #22
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Hi guys.

What is the problem with this car except part support?

Which of the setups does she have,droop,roll center vs?

I have seen this car has a pivot ball suspension that i like and, pro4,tc4, trf do not use this system, is it because of being a heavy system or another reason?
I think Xray uses pivot ball and it is a very good car.
What about the part quality of this car?
It has a very low cost and have many pluses to pro cars when you read its specifications.
The only think is for me that it handles or not, it can be upgradable with using different brand parts like shocks etc.
Any good comment?
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:00 PM   #23
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As for parts support, forget Trinity. Go to Stormer Hobbies! They have nearly 5 pages of IN STOCK parts, including tires and wheels:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...e=&man=&page=0

So that covers that area for sure! Stormer has always been great to deal with too!

I have been running off-road for about 3 years and have just picked this car up to start messing around with on-road more too. I would not have grabbed it had it not been for the affordability and parts availability at Stormer.

The only suggestion I got was to rebuild the diffs or replace them with HPI diffs. Aside from that, I have yet to see any real setup and would like to get a good asphalt base one for running 19T. If any body has one please share it.

Oh, and here are some of the features of the car:

Some features of the T-Spec sedan include:
-aluminum drive shaft
-aluminum drive couplers
-ball differentials
-pillow ball suspension
-adjustable caster, camber and toe-in/toe-out
-front and rear droop screws
-ball bearings
-threaded oil-filled shock bodies
-heatsink motor clamp
-stick or saddle pack option
-rear sway bar
-motor heatsink


Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
Can't get spare parts for the T-spec..... Soon to be called

"T-gone".... What good is this car if you can't get spare parts.....
Actually, you can get some spares for the T Spec from Tower Hobbies
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Old 08-19-2005, 07:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Bahnatka
Actually, you can get some spares for the T Spec from Tower Hobbies
Thanks LB! I never did see that when I was out on Tower. Good to know!!

You wouldn't happen to have any setups you would like to share? I'm still looking for some.

Thanks!
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:05 AM   #26
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The box stock setup squared off camber wise (1 degree) worked great on carpet, not sure what is good on asphalt but I can't imagine it is that much different...The key deal with the car is to change the stock spur gear and find the smallest spur you can...We found 60 tooth spurs this way you open up the gearing options with the stock spur you are pretty limited and the Street Spec motors really need different gearing...Otherwise it is a fun little car to run, fairly durable...I would recommend painting your dogbones or wrapping a piece of white or red tape around them cause being black if you loose one it is probably gone....
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:15 AM   #27
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Thanks for the suggestions on setup TigeRyan! I sent you a PM on your dog bones - wasn't sure if you had found any, but shot you a link to a few sites.

Any thing on droop, toe-in, roll center, etc? Or just go box stock with all of that? I know that things will change once I'm on the track and just start tweaking one thing at a time, but just wanted to see if you had any input on that.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:20 AM   #28
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When I took the car outdoors I did dial in as much rear droop as I could but otherwise I didnt change any setup stuff...

there are a couple of things you can do to help the car though...

First off the bearings are PACKED with a thick black grease, if you have the time disassemble all 4 corners of the car, clean the bearings out completely and relube with Trinity Royal Oil (one drop), do the same to the diff bearings, it really frees up the car. Also, on my car a gorilla must have assembled the diff halves, they were so tightly put together that the car had binding there, bottom out the screws and then back off an 1/8th of a turn...With the car you are just looking to free it up as much as possible....
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:11 AM   #29
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Got it!! Thanks for all the helpful insight! I greatly appreciate it! I will work on the car and see what I can do.

Thank you again!!
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