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Old 10-27-2013, 01:00 PM   #781
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Felt the car was flipping in the hearpins and oversteerd in the fast corners.

Have white side spring. Maby the tubes are to soft. Have some lube kit in diferent coulors and graded from 1-6. Have nr 2 in the tubes now.

Will do some testing next week. Nordic champs is coming up in a couple of weeks and will be my next race.
Thank you for the tips.
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Last edited by Tajpan; 10-28-2013 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:12 PM   #782
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Originally Posted by Tajpan View Post
Felt the car was flipping in the hearpins and oversteerd in the fast corners.

Have white side spring. Maby the tubes are to soft. Have some lube kit in diferent coulors and graded from 1-6. Have nr 2 in the tubes now.

Will do some testing next week. Nordic camps is coming up in a couple of weeks and will be my next race.
Thank you for the tips.
I usually had red side springs on my Xi and 20,000 lube in the tubes. Sorry, I do not recognize lubes rated as 1-6.

Another tuning add to cure flipping in hairpin turns would be to take some camber out of the front end. You should run as much camber as you can; but, back off enough to avoid traction rolling in hairpins. My camber usually ranged between 1/2 to 1 degree at the front end on a high traction carpet track.

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Old 11-11-2013, 12:19 PM   #783
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How wide you drive it?

Have the Nordic Championships this weekend, modifide class. Havent had time to test the car and have only driven 10.5 blinky. Will be lots of fun.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:00 AM   #784
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:42 PM   #785
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:48 AM   #786
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Anyone know the difference between mounting the servo on the angled mounts and mounting flat on the chassis?

If mounting at an angle, should the steering links sweep back towards the steering knuckles or remain inline?
Thanks
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:03 AM   #787
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Is anyone else have problems with the side links (#3280) breaking?
Over the last 2 weeks I've broken 6 of them. They've been breaking where they attach to the ball stud and they've been breaking as a pair. Looks like the plastic is very hard and brittle. I bought some Lunsford turnbuckles and ballcups and installed them as a quick fix-seems to work so far.

There was a bad batch of the CRC 3280's. Two fixes. Run a 1/16th bit through holes on new ones so the interference fit is not so tight or start a 2/56 tap through the hole (big hole first) but I suggest you don't run the tap all the way through as it will leave the bolt lose enough to move on it own. Problem is taken care of in later batches. I had the same problem a couple weeks ago.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:04 AM   #788
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Anyone know the difference between mounting the servo on the angled mounts and mounting flat on the chassis?

If mounting at an angle, should the steering links sweep back towards the steering knuckles or remain inline?
Thanks
Skiddins
i was gonna ask the same thing but searched the topic , brought me here ...anyone?
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:13 PM   #789
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i was gonna ask the same thing but searched the topic , brought me here ...anyone?
I run the older cars but when running flat you get a bunch of push. Now to eliminate that push you need to add ackerman back into the steering by raising the outter ball stud. I used the tall ball studs (the ones with the large block at the bottom with a hole for a screw to enter)

this brought back the angle when steering. you can play with heights on the knuckle to fine tune the ackerman.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:06 PM   #790
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I run the older cars but when running flat you get a bunch of push. Now to eliminate that push you need to add ackerman back into the steering by raising the outter ball stud. I used the tall ball studs (the ones with the large block at the bottom with a hole for a screw to enter)

this brought back the angle when steering. you can play with heights on the knuckle to fine tune the ackerman.
Raising the outer ballstud changes bump steer, changing the front to back angle changes ackerman.

Changing bump steer by raising the outer turnbuckle height will increase steering into a corner like you are describing, because as the suspension compresses going into a corner it won't toe in as much.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:22 PM   #791
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thank you both, still more tinkering needed .....
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:33 PM   #792
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thank you both, still more tinkering needed .....
This might help as well to answer your original question.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...vo#post3873426
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:43 PM   #793
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Does anyone have a link to the manual, set up sheet, and parts list to the CRC Gen Xi with the 1s pack in the far back position?
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:36 PM   #794
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The XI still has it. After struggling a little with my own thick skull over cutting tires down to where they needed to be and getting some setup help from Wiita, my XI was within 2-3 tenths of the fastest 13.5 cars at the Nats. This was on a motor that has been used and abused for 2 winters and a pack that I've been beating up with high amp charges for 4 months. I have NO doubt that with a fresh motor and pack it would have been MONEY.

I shocked myself with an A main position and was walked into a gun fight with a knife, so I spent a lot of time getting out of the way.

Even running a safe slow line with totally shot nerves it was only about 3 tenths off pace, entirely due to my lack of driving and a B-main power package.

The one thing I learned, next time I'm bringing a big gun! I had no idea how hard it would be to drive in a close pack when you are only a couple tenths off!

Special thanks to the REALLY fast guys that put up with my antics. As soon as I started to try to make up for the lack of horsepower with a tight line, it got REALLY ugly! I was already running about an inch off the infield boards at apex. Didn't have the skills to make that 1/2 inch.........

It was great meeting some of the CRC guys in person. Very cool bunch of racers!
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Old 11-16-2015, 04:32 PM   #795
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Anything new comming up from CRC 1/12, is the car still a contender?
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