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Old 11-10-2011, 08:54 PM   #196
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What is the part number for these pink shoes I have been hearing about?
DSS #0001

(Dumpers Speedshop)
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:32 AM   #197
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DSS #0001

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HaHaHa
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:32 AM   #198
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The boxed in rear pod will be an option. There is nothing wrong with the plastic small left pod plate. That is what I use on my cars. However there is a surprise in the box for the first run of cars. I cannot say what it is, but I do know what it is since I am the one that put it in there.

Bag 3
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Awesome job. Thanks CRC!
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:21 PM   #199
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Got my kit exactly 24 hours ago, and was luckily enough to have both days off school so I busted out this baby. I know a lot of this shouldn't be foreign to you guys, but for those who pick up on a thing or two, it should be a life saver.

Front End

I've seen this countless times, and probably even done it back in my younger days.. Putting two different caster blocks in your front end because you were too careless to examine each angle. This should be a common sense thing now, but when opening the package, pull all the blocks and line them up in pairs in a row noting the angle between them. The picture below shows the difference between them, so you’re not running a 5* and a 10* on your front end.



With the new changes to the front end, I truly think its a good step for CRC. Coming from the cheap aluminum axel that we all known to strip by the hour, the new 1/8th axel provides (what is seems to be) a much sturdier structure with better quality. Also to note that finding bearings won't be such a hassle now when it comes to replacing them. Other than that, the front end is composed of less pieces in general as you can see below, which in my eyes equals less possibly for error such a tweak.



This is a general tip for building a kit, but for the people that blow it off, you might as well throw your kit away. With 1/12 being soo dependent on being free, its crucial for free front end travel. Since i didn’t have a reamer for the proper size, a drill bit attached to a dremel works well. Please note that there’s a fine line between tight and sloppy when doing this, so be patient and don't go to town with it.




I think i might be the only one that doesn't like running the standard CRC links that come with the kit, but for the 99% of you that do, this works wonders. Starting out with a body reamer, i like to ream out the link holes 1 rotation, very gently. This opens up the inner hole, freeing up the links a tad. After this, i use a 82* countersink (doesn’t matter what angle) and clear the tips and bottoms of the holes so it doesn’t interfere with the lip of the balls. Please note to do this after you've threaded the screws into the links, clamping them together, providing a much truer circle to work with.




Rear End

CRC's new spur gear is including in this kit, which i wasn't expecting. Using 16 3/32" balls instead of the usual 12 1/8th that's been the norms since the dawn of time, the kit provides a 80 tooth spur, completing the rear axle. The only downfall in this i see would being able to find those size diff balls at a LHS, or even the gears itself. Picture below shows old vs. new.




The new Team Tamale/Speed Merchant pod seemed so dope, I just knew I had to give it a try. After receiving it, I was kind of let down, or maybe a lot. First, the new CRC top brace connecting both pods is technically needed to complete it (which i don't have). That really didn’t bother me, but after piecing it together and examine the bottom, the machine work isn't done to perfection. Not sure if they had the metric countersink of 90* instead of the proper 82*, but the lip of all the flat heads aren't flush, at all. Other than that, there were still come carbon edgings still not trimmed attached on the inner diameter of the holes. I know this may seem small, but when paying almost $100 for a couple piece of aluminum and carbon fiber, I expected great things. But I do them props for the idea itself, just looking at it I know it'll save anyone who buys it valuable time at the track. I guess I'll have to test it to see. Picture below shows the XI pod vs. the Tamale pod, which is very different in sizing.





Here's the finished product, equipped with a standard size SpeedZone pack. Seeing how tight spacing is already, I think it'd be pointless to run the inline setup without the new Shorty pack. Other than that, here are something’s I’ve noticed during the build:




-Shorter shock length from bottom to top plate than found in pervious cars
-Longer chassis (4mm maybe)
-Very nice Carbon quality
-A special gift if you bought one of the first batches

Please note:
The shock and side links pictured above aren't including in the kit. CRC provides the Encore shock, Instead of the Hot Bodies shock, and regular links instead of the AE links shown above*




If you have any questions, or if I've stated something wrong, please let me know! Kit went together well, we'll see how it pulls at the Indoor Champs!
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Last edited by Mark506; 11-11-2011 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:29 PM   #200
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I've seen this countless times, and probably even done it back in my younger days.
I find it funny when high school kids refer to their "younger days".

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perv
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:03 PM   #201
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Get those side links and shock off there!!! Thats an ORDER!!!
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:45 PM   #202
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Originally Posted by Mark506 View Post
Got my kit exactly 24 hours ago, and was luckily enough to have both days off school so I busted out this baby. I know a lot of this shouldn't be foreign to you guys, but for those who pick up on a thing or two, it should be a life saver.

Front End

I've seen this countless times, and probably even done it back in my younger days.. Putting two different caster blocks in your front end because you were too careless to examine each angle. This should be a common sense thing now, but when opening the package, pull all the blocks and line them up in pairs in a row noting the angle between them. The picture below shows the difference between them, so you’re not running a 5* and a 10* on your front end.

With the new changes to the front end, I truly think its a good step for CRC. Coming from the cheap aluminum axel that we all known to strip by the hour, the new 1/8th axel provides (what is seems to be) a much sturdier structure with better quality. Also to note that finding bearings won't be such a hassle now when it comes to replacing them. Other than that, the front end is composed of less pieces in general as you can see below, which in my eyes equals less possibly for error such a tweak.

This is a general tip for building a kit, but for the people that blow it off, you might as well throw your kit away. With 1/12 being soo dependent on being free, its crucial for free front end travel. Since i didn’t have a reamer for the proper size, a drill bit attached to a dremel works well. Please note that there’s a fine line between tight and sloppy when doing this, so be patient and don't go to town with it.

I think i might be the only one that doesn't like running the standard CRC links that come with the kit, but for the 99% of you that do, this works wonders. Starting out with a body reamer, i like to ream out the link holes 1 rotation, very gently. This opens up the inner hole, freeing up the links a tad. After this, i use a 82* countersink (doesn’t matter what angle) and clear the tips and bottoms of the holes so it doesn’t interfere with the lip of the balls. Please note to do this after you've threaded the screws into the links, clamping them together, providing a much truer circle to work with.

Rear End

CRC's new spur gear is including in this kit, which i wasn't expecting. Using 16 3/32" balls instead of the usual 12 1/8th that's been the norms since the dawn of time, the kit provides a 80 tooth spur, completing the rear axle. The only downfall in this i see would being able to find those size diff balls at a LHS, or even the gears itself. Picture below shows old vs. new.

The new Team Tamale/Speed Merchant pod seemed so dope, I just knew I had to give it a try. After receiving it, I was kind of let down, or maybe a lot. First, the new CRC top brace connecting both pods is technically needed to complete it (which i don't have). That really didn’t bother me, but after piecing it together and examine the bottom, the machine work isn't done to perfection. Not sure if they had the metric countersink of 90* instead of the proper 82*, but the lip of all the flat heads aren't flush, at all. Other than that, there were still come carbon edgings still not trimmed attached on the inner diameter of the holes. I know this may seem small, but when paying almost $100 for a couple piece of aluminum and carbon fiber, I expected great things. But I do them props for the idea itself, just looking at it I know it'll save anyone who buys it valuable time at the track. I guess I'll have to test it to see. Picture below shows the XI pod vs. the Tamale pod, which is very different in sizing.

Here's the finished product, equipped with a standard size SpeedZone pack. Seeing how tight spacing is already, I think it'd be pointless to run the inline setup without the new Shorty pack. Other than that, here are something’s I’ve noticed during the build:]

-Shorter shock length from bottom to top plate than found in pervious cars
-Longer chassis (4mm maybe)
-Very nice Carbon quality
-A special gift if you bought one of the first batches

Please note:
The shock and side links pictured above aren't including in the kit. CRC provides the Encore shock, Instead of the Hot Bodies shock, and regular links instead of the AE links shown above*

If you have any questions, or if I've stated something wrong, please let me know! Kit went together well, we'll see how it pulls at the Indoor Champs!
That blows you found some problems with your new pod I too am very picky and when I spend a 100 bucks or more I expect the company to be within correct tolerances and such. Having been a graduate of a machine shop college and long time 12th enthusiast I understand how you can want the thing to be perfect

At least you pointed out some problems that could help improve the next batch of parts
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:21 AM   #203
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Get those side links and shock off there!!! Thats an ORDER!!!
Ding Ding Ding!!!
And the pod
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #204
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Man I have really got to upgrade my XL chassis. Not for any reason but to keep up with the XI. Going to be a happy day when I get the chance!

We had a race at our local Pirated track and on-track results speak for themselves. The qual and main results were Gen-XI #1 and #2 and Gen-XL (mine, lol!) in #3....followed by a Rev 7....and I by followed I mean I was seeing glimpses out of the corner of my eye....but it was all angry red in front!

So my initial gatherings are this...all current Gen-XL owners....ya'll still got nothing to worry about over the competition and no need to upgrade at all .....unless you are competing against the XI.....then it's gonna be back to being the brides maid, lol!
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:46 PM   #205
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Man I have really got to upgrade my XL chassis. Not for any reason but to keep up with the XI. Going to be a happy day when I get the chance!

We had a race at our local Pirated track and on-track results speak for themselves. The qual and main results were Gen-XI #1 and #2 and Gen-XL (mine, lol!) in #3....followed by a Rev 7....and I by followed I mean I was seeing glimpses out of the corner of my eye....but it was all angry red in front!

So my initial gatherings are this...all current Gen-XL owners....ya'll still got nothing to worry about over the competition and no need to upgrade at all .....unless you are competing against the XI.....then it's gonna be back to being the brides maid, lol!
Explain pirated track please ...lol

Did you download the race software from torrents

Are people hacking transponders now
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:49 PM   #206
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It will be interesting to see if the Xi conversion is better for our local club. Last night, the top 3 were seperated by less than 3 seconds after 8 minutes with the single fastest lap being 6.78 secs by all three! Oh, and all 3 were using XL's! What it comes down to is mistakes really, but who knows, you might get a couple of tenths per lap with the new chassis, we'll see!
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:59 PM   #207
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It will be interesting to see if the Xi conversion is better for our local club. Last night, the top 3 were seperated by less than 3 seconds after 8 minutes with the single fastest lap being 6.78 secs by all three! Oh, and all 3 were using XL's! What it comes down to is mistakes really, but who knows, you might get a couple of tenths per lap with the new chassis, we'll see!
I got 5 dollars on the bet that inline works better on tracks with less turning and non-inline works better on lots of intricate curves and turns

Please have mercy with my bold statement
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:02 PM   #208
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Explain pirated track please ...lol
That is in reference to the blue car home track that is rapidly being taken over by the Big Angry Red Planet!
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:05 PM   #209
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I got 5 dollars on the bet that inline works better on tracks with less turning and non-inline works better on lots of intricate curves and turns

Please have mercy with my bold statement
The track we have been running on isn't a high speed layout, has many turns including a chicane and bus turn. Fast lap right now is held by Kenny with an 8.5 running the Gen-XI and my current fastest with the Gen-XL is 8.6. With the battery inline, the longer car actually handles the twisties very well and will only get better as the track opens up.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:05 PM   #210
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That is in reference to the blue car home track that is rapidly being taken over by the Big Angry Red Planet!
Communication received clearly
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