Alex C

iTrader: (50)

For those of you out there running Mod 1/12 Scale here is my base setup, feel free to utilize and provide any feedback ............ all the best!!!

A few build tips specific to the car are explained as per the following sections below.



Front End:

• First thing I would recommend to polish both king pins with mothers polish.
• On both of the of the Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Mounts I would remove a bit of the plastic that is molded into the arm. Reasoning for this is because on both Left and Right Arm you are going to add a total of 3mm spacers on both sides to take away camber gain on both arms.
• Additionally I would remove all shims as recommeded per the instruction manual and place them on top of the upper ball joint.
• Further I would preload the gold springs by at lease one .2mm shim on both sides. Thus with the car at rest you should have no droop in the front end what so ever.
• I would use the 5* Initial setting of the reactive castor block.
• On both steering blocks I would shim both links with a total of 3mm spacers to elivate unwanted bump steer in the car.
• Dependent upon which servo you plan on utlizing (KO Propo 951-ICS) preferably. I would mount the servo on the left most side of the chassis (same side as the battery).
• Additonally I would shim the servo in a manner in which both turnbuckles are about even or a bit forward in relationship to the front end. In other words the turnbuckles are angling back slightly.

Center Shock

• Plan on purchasing the NEW Black Shock Spring C=2.1.
• I would recommend to start with atleast Xray 700Cst for the center dampner.
• Shock build should be as per the manual, initial rebound set at 50%.
• Place atleast 2.5mm of shim on the front shock mount, and 4mm on the rear of the shock ball mounting to the rear upper pod plate.

Side Links / Center Link

• Plan on polishing all of the steel pivot balls with Mother Polish yet again to fine mirror image.

Side Dampner

• I would recommend to use 7K.Cst on the dampner and apply as mentioned per the manual.

Rear Pod Plate

• Shim atleast 3mm of black shims on both sides of the upper pod plate, In order to provide an angled side dampner angle thus giving a more smoother softer side to side motion of the pod plate.

Final Setup

• Front Spring "Gold" C=3.5 or Associated .20
• Front Ride Height 3.6mm
• Rear Ride Height 3.8mm
• Pod Droop 1.0mm
• Rear width 171.5mm
• Front Camber -1.5
• Toe Out .25 -.5mm out Right / Left.
• Parma Magenta Front 41mm
• Parma Magenta Rear 43mm
• Side Springs either Associated "Black" Springs or Xray Kit Silver Side Springs.
• The most important thing to remember is not to preload the side springs, just set them with the car ready to race and turn each screw down evenly just when they start to touch and provide a quarter turn.
• Check and set final left / right tweak.

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

Hi Alex,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
These settings are specific to carpet or asphalt or both?

Cheers
Andrew

Alex C

iTrader: (50)

Andrew .............. the settings provided seems to work on a fast flowing technical medium to low traction carpet. I have not had the opportunity to drive the car in a high traction track yet.

Although please feel free to reply back once you tried the setup and the conditions.

Kind Regards,

Shortbusallstar

I feel like my car scrubs soooo much speed in tight corners, what can i try to stop this ?

Dread Pirate

iTrader: (15)

I raced my X12 for the 1st time last weekend and it really handled great; didn't have time to tune, just ran the stock setup on a good size, good traction carpet track.

A couple questions:
1) I struggled with getting the 4 clip stock servo saver together and it popped apart when hit during the 1st race. I went back together I think ok, but has anyone else had this problem?

2) Stock built, the car is pretty heavy at 740+g (min weight at IIC is 730g). Would like to add lightness. Not that its a lot of weight savings, but has anyone converted to titanium screws/ballstuds? Which ones? My cursury searches didn't find a set, and not all of the individual sizes.

Thanks,
Jeff Smith

tnewlon

iTrader: (15)

Putting my new X12 together. My question is this:
Has anyone ran the JR Z3650 servo? If so, how did you mount it? Noticed it is smaller than the futaba in my old 1/12 scale and does not fit mounting holes. Please help (I do not want to glue in car)

Mr.T3

iTrader: (3)

Hi, just wondering if anyone has a base setup for an outdoor asphalt track medium to low traction with mod class. Thanks

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking for a similar setup too... but was wondering if it would be a safe assumption that todays modern 1/12th cars are designed for carpet rather than asphalt?
Most talk about extra stiff chassis which is great if you have traction and most primarily come with a carpet setup (springs, shocks, oils, etc) out of the box.
I know it would be possible to get a 1/12th to work OK on low traction asphalt but with manufacturers now ignoring asphalt as an option, will the cars ever reach their full potential.
What made me ask is the aftermarket stuff a japanese company released for the CRC:
http://www.redrc.net/2007/08/crc-gen...pec/#more-5212
Thinner chassis, extended wheelbase, all designed to work with low traction tracks.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I run medium traction asphalt outdoor track, I have 1/12 of CRC, Kyosho and X Ray. I usually run AE 0.18 front spring with no oil on front kingpin, 1 degree toe out and camber with 5 degree active caster. AE blue spring and 5k~10k oil in the tubes, 35~40 oil in shock, tire of the choice of our track is double pink front and pink rear, maybe you can try start with that.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

does anyone know what is the largest pinion that can be used with the xray 78t spur? Any chance of fitting a 46t?

sdunnmcp

Not sure, but if it doesn't just get a 71 spur from PRS.

Steve Dunn

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I'm having issues with the car pulling hard to the left under acceleration. Thinking its the diff, but have rebuilt it twice.

Any suggestions?

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

What motor are you running? Just curious, because you'll need to be more gentle with the throttle with a mod motor as opposed to something like a 17.5, wheel slip can be a cause.

Are you pulling while going straight? or before/after a turn?

I would go through the following list as a check:

Is the car balanced?
Is the car tweaked?
Is the camber the same left/right?
Is the castor the same left/right?
Is the toe equal left/right?
Is there any binding? side-links? rear pivot?
Is one of your front springs colapsed?
Is your front droop the same left/right?
Is the servo loose?
Are your tires the same size in the front?
Are you using the same number of shims for ride height in the front left/right?
Are you using the same number of shims on the rear axle left/right and is it centered?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

it's a Ion3 13.5/VTX1 currently in blinky. It's pulling while going straight, no steering input.

I'm pretty sure most of the above is fine, but looking at your list I'll have to go over it with a fine tooth comb.

I'm still leaning towards it being the diff for some reason. Any hints on what to look for in a ball diff that pulls unevenly?

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

If you've rebuilt it correctly a couple of times so far .. then I'd look to the list I provided. Just in case though ..

1. Make sure the balls don't have flat spots (I use ceramics)
2. Make sure the rings are not grooved too badly (new rings or flip them or sand them.
3. Make sure the bearings spin freely.
4. Make sure the thrust washer is installed correctly.
5. Make sure the cone washers are installed correctly.
6. I use associated silicon diff grease (clear grease- red label).

Alot of times, a crash can knock some toe/camber into the car .. put it on a setup station to check.

Also sometimes, the front end can get a little tweaked, loosen the screws that hold the front end on, and re-tighten them equally, alternating screws.

Do you rotate your front tires, left/right ever? every run? doing so, will give you more tire life as wel.