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Old 06-16-2012, 10:00 PM   #106
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If you've rebuilt it correctly a couple of times so far .. then I'd look to the list I provided. Just in case though ..

1. Make sure the balls don't have flat spots (I use ceramics)
2. Make sure the rings are not grooved too badly (new rings or flip them or sand them.
3. Make sure the bearings spin freely.
4. Make sure the thrust washer is installed correctly.
5. Make sure the cone washers are installed correctly.
6. I use associated silicon diff grease (clear grease- red label).

Alot of times, a crash can knock some toe/camber into the car .. put it on a setup station to check.

Also sometimes, the front end can get a little tweaked, loosen the screws that hold the front end on, and re-tighten them equally, alternating screws.

Do you rotate your front tires, left/right ever? every run? doing so, will give you more tire life as wel.
Just went over the whole car, redid the tube thingies and tested with new wheels and everything seems ok except l/rbalance was off, which is now fixed. Unfortunately it's still pulling to the left.

If i hold one wheel lightly and touch the throttle, I can definitely feel the right pulling harder than the left. So I think it's back to the diff. The diff looks quite new however I did buy the car 2nd hand (only a few runs old).

I flipped the entire diff unit around and it didn't change anything. Might get some new balls and sand the plates then try again...
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:44 AM   #107
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Seemed to be ok on the track this weekend. Bit of pull to one side at first, then it must have broken in after a few laps.

How do you determine proper rollout for a track? I'm on a small track, 20m straight, rollout at 73mm. Wriggling my finger around half throttle for the infield which consists of chicanes, no hairpins, was thinking I could do with a bit more acceleration in there. Should I go up or down?
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:33 PM   #108
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Just wanted to let everyone know about our new 12th and 10th scale pan car tire truing adapter. This really helps get a true running tire by clamping the wheel the same way as when the wheel is attached to the hub with the mounting screws. Check it out at www.teamtamale.com.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #109
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Seemed to be ok on the track this weekend. Bit of pull to one side at first, then it must have broken in after a few laps.

How do you determine proper rollout for a track? I'm on a small track, 20m straight, rollout at 73mm. Wriggling my finger around half throttle for the infield which consists of chicanes, no hairpins, was thinking I could do with a bit more acceleration in there. Should I go up or down?
Make sure to wipe the tire compound off your tires before you put the car on the track, this helps with the first few laps (as well as being a common courtesy to the track owner).

Asking other people at the track what they are rolled out at is the best place to start. On a local 60x40ft tight and technical carpet track, multiple 180's with 13.5 blinky I'm rolled out at around 85-89mm and the car is fast. The track does have a large sweeper though. Setup plays a large role in how much you have to let off the throttle to get around a turn.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:18 AM   #110
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Default Xray Quick Shims

I had Chris, the owner of Manutech Racing and a local racer, create some "Quick Shims" (ride height shims) for my X12 recently. He already makes these for CRC and AE front ends and have been very popular with alot of racers.

I got tired of taking off the front end to adjust ride height .. so these shims allow you to simply loosen the front end screws and pop them in. No more lost washers .. a must have IMO.

A-Main carries some of his items, so hopefully they will pick these up as well. Until then, you should be able to contact him through his website and I think he'll also be posting the items for sale there as well.

http://manutech.info/rcracinghome/racingproducts.html
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:23 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Make sure to wipe the tire compound off your tires before you put the car on the track, this helps with the first few laps (as well as being a common courtesy to the track owner).

Asking other people at the track what they are rolled out at is the best place to start. On a local 60x40ft tight and technical carpet track, multiple 180's with 13.5 blinky I'm rolled out at around 85-89mm and the car is fast. The track does have a large sweeper though. Setup plays a large role in how much you have to let off the throttle to get around a turn.
Not using any tyre additive - it's not a permanent track.

Also, Nobody else is running 12ths yet. I'm the first one, with a few more coming. Not even sure we'll be running 13.5 boost either...
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:04 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
does anyone know what is the largest pinion that can be used with the xray 78t spur? Any chance of fitting a 46t?
Since I had asked how much range the motor mount had as well, I finally tested it.

It can vary a couple of teeth depending on the motor width (they vary slightly) as well as the position of the axle in the right height carriers, but:
Min = 105 teeth (Pinion + Spur)
Max = 132 teeth (Pinion + Spur)

For example, with my 71 Spur the smallest pinion I could use was a 34 tooth, and the largest was a 61.

Long asnwer, but your 78T spur + 46T pinion = 122 total teeth should fit fine.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #113
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Default X12 at 2012 IIC

I ran the X12 at the 2012 IIC race last week; I highly recommend that race.
The X12 was a fantastic car, I was pretty rough with it in the main hitting to many boards, but the car was great.

I put the X12 tubes onto my X10 WGT car and won the C-main, again, the X-10 handled fantastic.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:37 AM   #114
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Default No tape needed

Slightly modified X12
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:35 AM   #115
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tttt
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:37 PM   #116
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Default Diggity Designs DX12 Transverse Conversion for the Xray X12

Okay X12 owners, We would like to introduce you to our transverse conversion kit. Comes with a solid 2.5mm chassis which consists of 3mm narrower front end mounting holes, 2.5mm upper top deck that moves the shock forward .250", a 3mm tweak plate that uses the o-ring style battery hold. Shock is mounted to the antenna mount and everything is centered on the chassis. Our testing has proven to be positive for 17.5 and 13.5 classes. We have not tested this in any mod class. Please visit our website for more info (http://www.diggitydesigns.com)

Some pics -



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Old 08-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #117
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Default XRay X12

As to front end, centre shock, side links, side dampner, rear pod plate:
are these settings to do on the X12 no matter what track your on? (so everytbody should do these?)
Or are these specific for the track you raced at?
Your final settings are specific for the track?

This one I don't understand, sorry[*]On both of the of the Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Mounts I would remove a bit of the plastic that is molded into the arm. Reasoning for this is because on both Left and Right Arm you are going to add a total of 3mm spacers on both sides to take away camber gain on both arms.
How much plastic to remove?
How?
Where do the 3mm spacers go? Would that be on top of part 372121 where the kingpins go through?

And this one?[*]Additionally I would remove all shims as recommeded per the instruction manual and place them on top of the upper ball joint.
Do you mean:
- the shim that is under partnumber 372221 (wouldn't that be needed between the spring and part number 373241?) and the five shims that are on top of partnumber 372221 go on top of part number 372130? (where already one shim is, so that would be seven shims in total...?!)

And this one:[*]On both steering blocks I would shim both links with a total of 3mm spacers to elivate unwanted bump steer in the car.
You mean 3mm ln top of 372221 where 372650 goes in?

I am new to this car. In the past I raced with Corally stock and mod.
I'm interested in your answers because so far I have not seen one X12 racer make these changes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C View Post
For those of you out there running Mod 1/12 Scale here is my base setup, feel free to utilize and provide any feedback ............ all the best!!!

A few build tips specific to the car are explained as per the following sections below.



Front End:
  • First thing I would recommend to polish both king pins with mothers polish.
  • On both of the of the Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Mounts I would remove a bit of the plastic that is molded into the arm. Reasoning for this is because on both Left and Right Arm you are going to add a total of 3mm spacers on both sides to take away camber gain on both arms.
  • Additionally I would remove all shims as recommeded per the instruction manual and place them on top of the upper ball joint.
  • Further I would preload the gold springs by at lease one .2mm shim on both sides. Thus with the car at rest you should have no droop in the front end what so ever.
  • I would use the 5* Initial setting of the reactive castor block.
  • On both steering blocks I would shim both links with a total of 3mm spacers to elivate unwanted bump steer in the car.
  • Dependent upon which servo you plan on utlizing (KO Propo 951-ICS) preferably. I would mount the servo on the left most side of the chassis (same side as the battery).
  • Additonally I would shim the servo in a manner in which both turnbuckles are about even or a bit forward in relationship to the front end. In other words the turnbuckles are angling back slightly.
Center Shock
  • Plan on purchasing the NEW Black Shock Spring C=2.1.
  • I would recommend to start with atleast Xray 700Cst for the center dampner.
  • Shock build should be as per the manual, initial rebound set at 50%.
  • Place atleast 2.5mm of shim on the front shock mount, and 4mm on the rear of the shock ball mounting to the rear upper pod plate.
Side Links / Center Link
  • Plan on polishing all of the steel pivot balls with Mother Polish yet again to fine mirror image.
Side Dampner
  • I would recommend to use 7K.Cst on the dampner and apply as mentioned per the manual.
Rear Pod Plate
  • Shim atleast 3mm of black shims on both sides of the upper pod plate, In order to provide an angled side dampner angle thus giving a more smoother softer side to side motion of the pod plate.
Final Setup
  • Front Spring "Gold" C=3.5 or Associated .20
  • Front Ride Height 3.6mm
  • Rear Ride Height 3.8mm
  • Pod Droop 1.0mm
  • Rear width 171.5mm
  • Front Camber -1.5
  • Toe Out .25 -.5mm out Right / Left.
  • Parma Magenta Front 41mm
  • Parma Magenta Rear 43mm
  • Side Springs either Associated "Black" Springs or Xray Kit Silver Side Springs.
  • The most important thing to remember is not to preload the side springs, just set them with the car ready to race and turn each screw down evenly just when they start to touch and provide a quarter turn.
  • Check and set final left / right tweak.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #118
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I can help a bit with this one .. as I've run the car for over a year with good success.

First off, the setup mentioned is for modified but a lot of things also work for 17.5 and 13.5. Just like any setup, it's a base starting point and you'll have to adjust some settings to better suit your track or driving style.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
This one I don't understand, sorry ... On both of the of the Composite Suspension Arm Front Lower Mounts I would remove a bit of the plastic that is molded into the arm. Reasoning for this is because on both Left and Right Arm you are going to add a total of 3mm spacers on both sides to take away camber gain on both arms.
On the inside of the front lower suspension arms (#372121 & #372111) there is a nub of plastic where the upper arm mounts (#372010 & #372020) attach to. You will have to file that nub off so that it is flat with the rest of the piece (cutoff wheel and file work well). Since the nub is filed off, now you can put spacers there. You are going to put 3mm of spacers between the lower suspension arm and the upper arm mount. You will need longer screws to do this. The reason for this is that the car has a lot of camber gain out of the box, too much for most tracks. What you are indirectly doing in this step is making the top arm (turnbuckle) longer, hence reducing camber gain. I use between 1.5mm and 3mm depending on track conditions. Xray part #303134 works well for this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
And this one?
Additionally I would remove all shims as recommeded per the instruction manual and place them on top of the upper ball joint.
Do you mean:
- the shim that is under partnumber 372221 (wouldn't that be needed between the spring and part number 373241?) and the five shims that are on top of partnumber 372221 go on top of part number 372130? (where already one shim is, so that would be seven shims in total...?!)
Again, this is to reduce camber gain .. your intention here is to make the top arm flatter. This has to do with the shims on the kingpin (page 7, step 5 in the manual). Instead of putting the shims as directed in the manual, put them all on the Ball Joint (#372130) - Yes 7 shims on top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
And this one:
On both steering blocks I would shim both links with a total of 3mm spacers to elivate unwanted bump steer in the car.
You mean 3mm ln top of 372221 where 372650 goes in?
Yes 3mm between 372221 and 372650. I would also try 4mm but you would have to get aftermarket ball studs because the xray ones are too short for 4mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
I am new to this car. In the past I raced with Corally stock and mod.
I'm interested in your answers because so far I have not seen one X12 racer make these changes.
These things work well for stock and also calm down a modified car.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #119
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Default XRay 12X

Thanks for the info. Helps a lot. Gonna go that way.

Sold my old Savox servo with all of my Corally stuff.
Any suggestions as to what servo best to use on this car?

And while I'm at it: with my Corally I tried 48dp and 64dp spurs.
64dp was best for me.
Also with X12?

Which brand of spurs best to use for this car?

Is there a min/max toothcount with this car I have to take into consideration?

And tyres? I would prefer Mobgums. Jaco still trouble with fitting the bearing? Solution with sticker not if possible.
Any suggestions?
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Thanks for the info. Helps a lot. Gonna go that way.

Sold my old Savox servo with all of my Corally stuff.
Any suggestions as to what servo best to use on this car?

And while I'm at it: with my Corally I tried 48dp and 64dp spurs.
64dp was best for me.
Also with X12?

Which brand of spurs best to use for this car?

Is there a min/max toothcount with this car I have to take into consideration?

And tyres? I would prefer Mobgums. Jaco still trouble with fitting the bearing? Solution with sticker not if possible.
Any suggestions?
What class are you running? indoor/outdoor?

I use a KO Propo 951 - Futaba 9650 is also good.

64P only

I like PRS Spurs because they sell a 72T that works well for spec racing. In spec you will need the 72T or 70T to accommodate the right size pinion.

I believe Mobgums are mounted on the grey Jaco wheel. I don't have any issues with the grey Jaco's. Black/Orange for 17.5 and Magenta/Magenta for mod.
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