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Old 10-24-2011, 02:09 AM   #46
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This lengthens out the upper A arm and reduces camber gain making the steering smoother.

EA
Is it used with the mod about sanding down the steering blocks (about 1,5mm) or without it?
What kind of shims are used to this mod? Thickness and type.
Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:52 AM   #47
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Is it used with the mod about sanding down the steering blocks (about 1,5mm) or without it?
What kind of shims are used to this mod? Thickness and type.
Thanks!
Most of us Team guys have gone away from lowering the steering block (sanding it down) as its really hard to make sure they are exactly the same and making the upper arm longer does the same thing without changing roll center as much as sanding the block. Start with 1.5mm shim (we use the black shims from the T3 line of cars that go on the bulkheads to widen it out at the roll center pieces). You will have to cut the little dimple off the lower arm that fits inside the caster block. Everything fits tight enough though the caster block wont move any on the arm.

EA
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:18 AM   #48
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I saw that the washers are inserted between the steering block and the Uniball. What enhances this change?
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:14 AM   #49
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I saw that the washers are inserted between the steering block and the Uniball. What enhances this change?
Which picture are you referring to? Are the washers on top of the steering block or below the steering block?

Above the block adds more angle to the upper arm causing more camber gain. Something we have found this car doesnt really need.

Below the steering block changes the roll center and also the ride height as it moves the wheel up away from the lower arm (Chassis).

EA
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:23 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Which picture are you referring to? Are the washers on top of the steering block or below the steering block?

Above the block adds more angle to the upper arm causing more camber gain. Something we have found this car doesnt really need.

Below the steering block changes the roll center and also the ride height as it moves the wheel up away from the lower arm (Chassis).

EA
I meant the washer indicated by the red arrow.

Thank you for your support .... You're very kind.

You can see image at this link:

LINK -- m2m.altervista.org/varie/foranderson.jpg -- LINK

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:50 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoM View Post
I meant the washer indicated by the red arrow.

Thank you for your support .... You're very kind.

You can see image at this link:

LINK -- m2m.altervista.org/varie/foranderson.jpg -- LINK

Thanks
That shim is to remove bump steer. To remove bump steer you need to keep the steering tie rod at about the same angle as the upper A arm on the suspension. This will take out bump steer and make the car easier to drive and not dig in as much getting into a corner. How many shims you run depends on what servo and servo saver you are using.

EA
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:00 AM   #52
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That shim is to remove bump steer. To remove bump steer you need to keep the steering tie rod at about the same angle as the upper A arm on the suspension. This will take out bump steer and make the car easier to drive and not dig in as much getting into a corner. How many shims you run depends on what servo and servo saver you are using.

EA
thank you very much!
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:16 PM   #53
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what tire combo works well for this kit? thx
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:54 AM   #54
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X12 Today released !
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:28 PM   #55
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Today released Option Rear Axle !
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:27 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Most of us Team guys have gone away from lowering the steering block (sanding it down) as its really hard to make sure they are exactly the same and making the upper arm longer does the same thing without changing roll center as much as sanding the block. Start with 1.5mm shim (we use the black shims from the T3 line of cars that go on the bulkheads to widen it out at the roll center pieces). You will have to cut the little dimple off the lower arm that fits inside the caster block. Everything fits tight enough though the caster block wont move any on the arm.

EA

First packs with the X12 done. Much better than the too narrow front end and too short chassis XII Link!
But the basic setup was not good.
Way too hard side springs, changed to AE Blue springs and harder tube oil --> great improvement.
Also the front springs seem too soft - changed those to grey ones.

I started with 1.5mm shim to make the upper arm longer. In what kind of setup window have you tried the front end?

Also would like to know tips about springs (side and front) and how to remove play from the front end.
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:23 AM   #57
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I have just taken the first rounds with the new X12 - approved.

I drove only 28 rounds, but make faster laptimes than I normally do on the first drive on the day

I started - chages from the xray start set-up - with 20.000 (speedmerchant medium) in the sidetubes, gold sidesprings, 171 mm width back, active castor 7,5 degree + 1 mm shim front and 4 mm of shims on the stering block to raise the steering rod.

Way too much steering - both off and on power - and very nervous. But way more stability straight line and entering the corners - both highspeed and low speed corners.

I will on next drive try 30.000 (speedmerchant blue) in the sidetubes, black sidesprings, black centerspring and remove some of the preload of the sidesprings. I have noticed that preload on the sidesprings add steering.

Kind regards; Jens
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:16 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peakki View Post
First packs with the X12 done. Much better than the too narrow front end and too short chassis XII Link!
But the basic setup was not good.
Way too hard side springs, changed to AE Blue springs and harder tube oil --> great improvement.
Also the front springs seem too soft - changed those to grey ones.

I started with 1.5mm shim to make the upper arm longer. In what kind of setup window have you tried the front end?

Also would like to know tips about springs (side and front) and how to remove play from the front end.
I run 10K in the side tubes but dont pack them full. This is what I ran in Vegas. I ran the speed merchant linear springs. .020.

Gray front springs are pretty hard arent they? I use AE .020's most of the time on the front. They are between a 3.5 and 4.0 Xray.

I have not tried the front end in the stock (Short link) location. I started with 1.5 on each side as thats what I had been running on the previous car.

EA
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:17 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jensroland View Post
I have just taken the first rounds with the new X12 - approved.

I drove only 28 rounds, but make faster laptimes than I normally do on the first drive on the day

I started - chages from the xray start set-up - with 20.000 (speedmerchant medium) in the sidetubes, gold sidesprings, 171 mm width back, active castor 7,5 degree + 1 mm shim front and 4 mm of shims on the stering block to raise the steering rod.

Way too much steering - both off and on power - and very nervous. But way more stability straight line and entering the corners - both highspeed and low speed corners.

I will on next drive try 30.000 (speedmerchant blue) in the sidetubes, black sidesprings, black centerspring and remove some of the preload of the sidesprings. I have noticed that preload on the sidesprings add steering.

Kind regards; Jens
Yes the preload on the side springs will add more steering and make the car more reactive to steering inputs.

What front springs are you running? Camber? It doenst take a lot of camber to make the car nervous and hard to drive.

I just put my IIC Setup on the xray web page today as well

EA
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:18 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jensroland View Post
I have just taken the first rounds with the new X12 - approved.

I drove only 28 rounds, but make faster laptimes than I normally do on the first drive on the day

I started - chages from the xray start set-up - with 20.000 (speedmerchant medium) in the sidetubes, gold sidesprings, 171 mm width back, active castor 7,5 degree + 1 mm shim front and 4 mm of shims on the stering block to raise the steering rod.

Way too much steering - both off and on power - and very nervous. But way more stability straight line and entering the corners - both highspeed and low speed corners.

I will on next drive try 30.000 (speedmerchant blue) in the sidetubes, black sidesprings, black centerspring and remove some of the preload of the sidesprings. I have noticed that preload on the sidesprings add steering.

Kind regards; Jens
changing to the 30,000 will giving you more steering ....
so far my car is very smooth forgiving around the track
and I would go with EA set up it is very close to my set up too
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