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Old 10-01-2011, 06:34 PM   #1
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Default Pros and cons of TC-4, TB-03, TT-01R type E please

Hey guys,

I am new to on-road racing, and would like to get a shaft-driven 4WD car for VTA and maybe TC racing. I want the shaft drive due to its simplicity. I do not want to deal with belts, tensioners, etc.

You wanna tell me that I'll have my ass handed to me by the race-bred belt-driven juggernauts? My answer: I don't care! I want simplicity of maintenance/tuning, and low cost.

I know Associated still makes the TC4 RTR, and I have failed numerous times trying to get GOOD (ie like new) used rollers on eBay. My preference would be to assemble a TC-4 Team or Factory Team kit myself, but those are VERY rare on eBay. I am leaning toward the TC4 since parts are easy to find here in the states. I just don't know anything about it beyond that.

I also know nothing of Tamiya's "better" quality shaft driven TB-03 or TT-01R type E chassis. So, can anyone comment on the following regarding the two Tamiya chassis?:

1. Parts availability in the States. Who stocks a lot of Tamiya parts here in the contiguous 48?

2. Durability of each chassis

3. Handling of each chassis, without hop-ups. I race SC very competitively with bone-stock Slashes, so I know I don't need all the hop-ups that everyone else gets (alloy shocks, upgraded steering, shiny CVDs, metal knuckles, etc)

4. Fitment of bodies from all manufacturers. I noticed that both Tamiya chassis are 183mm wide, while the TC-4 is 190mm wide. Does this present a problem fitting either Tamiya chassis with a VTA or TC body?

I only want to hear from people who have owned/raced these chassis in VTA or TC.

Spare me the brief, unfounded, idiocy of "just get (fill in the blank here)".

Tell me WHY!
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:11 PM   #2
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Well, I'm new here, but not to on-road.

Don't get sold on the "which is better" way of thinking. Both shaft and belt have their goods and bads. I run strictly belt drive, but that's my preference, not out of any factor like maintenance (I don't have much to maintain, really), or durability (which belts have, they just have to be adjusted correctly, is all). It's because of the noise factor, but that's just me.

The TB03 is a good choice, because of it's basic design, though it doesn't seem too popular (at this point, I'd say it's because of price). As for durability, I don't have any experience around one, but it's no worse than any other Tamiya chassis tha's shaft-driven.

TC-4's are good, and not so old a design that it won't work for you. The price is right, and if you can get Associated parts readily, that would be my choice.

Can I suggest another? Ofna JL10e GT. It is pretty inexpensive as a roller, and tough? I had one, and never replaced one part on it. It comes with a fiberglass chassis, but don't let that fool you. It's very stiff. The machining of all metal parts is first-rate, and the plastics are T-O-U-G-H. It handles very well, once adjusted to your driving style, and has won titles, so you know it's bred right.
If you are concerned about parts, check out their parts house (you can get there from the homepage), and you can order from them direct. You'll like the prices, I'm sure.
You will not need anything for the JL10e GT in the way of hop ups, though I do recommend the front one-way diff.
Give it a look-see. It's a sleeper chassis that people think is cheap, because of it's price, but it's far, far, from it!
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:02 PM   #3
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If simple shaft drive is your choice, then the tc4 is the only way to go . It doesn't have to be the factory team kit, the rtr is easier to work on, and cheaper with about the same performance. I have three rtr's ,and two factory team ...Maintenance is almost zero in my cars ! If I break, I wrench. If not , I just keep on going. The only thing you will need to do so you won't get killed is to get the lightest electronics possible: tekin rs esc, savox 1251 servo, light battery pack(270grams), protoform vta body......
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:06 PM   #4
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Cross the TT01 off the list. Its just too crude a design.
More of a beginners/toy car.
Ive owned both the TT01E & TB03R

Id recommend the TB03R , it comes std with alot of the hop-ups
Fully enclosed gears & diffs. Same suspension as a TA05

TB03 has very weak plastic diff outdrives. Upgrade them to the metal diff.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=435
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:00 AM   #5
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Guys, thanks for the info. I am still looking for a good, like-new TC4.

The TB03R does look promising, but it is discontinued and a bit expensive.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:25 AM   #6
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If you go with the TC4 for VTA, you'll need to keep some things in mind.

1. To get down to a recommended 4.0 FDR for the 25.5 you'll need to get some of the smallest spurs they make in 64 pitch.

2. This will also require some fairly large pinions.

3. All of this requires some Dremel work on the chassis and motor mount to accomodate the spur/pinion combo.

4. All that said, I have a TC3 for VTA with an 88/53 (or 55) and love the car. Easy to work on, handles great, tough as nails.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:50 AM   #7
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i own a bunch of tamiyas and i've had a pretty easy time with parts unless its some super odd piece i was looking for. i get these parts at speedtechrc.com. those guys at speedtechrc are pretty helpful and they ship out fast and affordable when i can't go by and pick my toys up myself.

if ur comparing the tc4 tb03 and the tt01 i would stay away from the tt01 if you want to be competitive. the limited gearing really prevents you from racing anything else other than another tt01 (which by the way tamiya championship series has a specific tt01 spec class). depending on your budget there are a lot of options but if ur budget is in the lower midrange/entry level the herd is a bit thin.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:53 AM   #8
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If you choose a tc4, remember that taking the spur gear out is not as easy as with a belt car . Therefore, 64p gears are not ideal ! 48p gears offer more durability, and with Robinson Racing new (49t/52t/55t) spur gears ,and (41t/43t/45t/47t) pinions , you can gear a 25.5t motor to the moon !!! I still have my 5year old spur gears in my cars still looking good !!!
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by platypus_s13 View Post
i own a bunch of tamiyas and i've had a pretty easy time with parts unless its some super odd piece i was looking for. i get these parts at speedtechrc.com. those guys at speedtechrc are pretty helpful and they ship out fast and affordable when i can't go by and pick my toys up myself.

if ur comparing the tc4 tb03 and the tt01 i would stay away from the tt01 if you want to be competitive. the limited gearing really prevents you from racing anything else other than another tt01 (which by the way tamiya championship series has a specific tt01 spec class). depending on your budget there are a lot of options but if ur budget is in the lower midrange/entry level the herd is a bit thin.
Didn't realize that it was that hard to gear the TT01R. Thank you for the info.

Do you have the TB-03? If so, how does it stack up against my questions?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
If you choose a tc4, remember that taking the spur gear out is not as easy as with a belt car . Therefore, 64p gears are not ideal ! 48p gears offer more durability, and with Robinson Racing new (49t/52t/55t) spur gears ,and (41t/43t/45t/47t) pinions , you can gear a 25.5t motor to the moon !!! I still have my 5year old spur gears in my cars still looking good !!!
Wow, great info. Thank you! So, is the stock spur 64 pitch on the TC4 then?
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:01 PM   #10
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The stock tc4 spur gear and pinion are 48p gears(72t spur) ! If you switch to 64p you will lose these two rtr gears ! None of my stock spur gears have stripped yet . The tc4 does need a bigger front bumper to stop breaking parts: the parma bumper is perfect .....
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:12 PM   #11
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has anyone looked at the Ofna JL10e GT touring chassis?

Inexpensive, well-made, and durable. I've had one, never had occasion to replace a broken part (never had any, even bashing), and they are very agile and with the right system, fast!

If you are concerned about parts availability, they can be purchased from Ofna direct.

Jeffrey Lin, Ofna's team driver, has won titles with that chassis, so you know it will race.

Give it a look.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:26 PM   #12
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If price is not an issue, checkout the newly released Awesomatix touring car !!!
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deunan View Post
has anyone looked at the Ofna JL10e GT touring chassis?

Inexpensive, well-made, and durable. I've had one, never had occasion to replace a broken part (never had any, even bashing), and they are very agile and with the right system, fast!

If you are concerned about parts availability, they can be purchased from Ofna direct.

Jeffrey Lin, Ofna's team driver, has won titles with that chassis, so you know it will race.

Give it a look.
Ya know, I did see that chassis, and wondered if it was too wide (200mm?) to compete in the TC class. I thought TCs needed to have 190mm width to accommodate 190mm bodies.

But, at 200mm, it is ideal for VTA. I just have to see if there are zero offset VTA wheels for this chassis.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:10 PM   #14
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My experience is with TC3's (which share a lot of the same parts with the TC4), and I will tell you my opinion of running 17.5 boosted TC and VTA.

VTA: Competitive car up to a point. Drives differently from a belt driven car. The direct feedback of the driveshaft is nice in many ways, torque steer is not an issue with the 25.5. Has all of the key suspension adjustments, but missing some of the small finer ones (ackerman comes to mind). Maintenance is minimal, broken parts happen but are readily available, and with a large number of aluminum parts, I am making weight with no additional weights added. I am actually over a bit more right now with a new cooling fan unit. Gearing clearances is an issue, but easily remedied with a few minutes with a dremel. I ran 46/72, and am now running 49/80. Both are fine. I prefer 64 pitch as it is quieter, and since every other VTA car will pretty much be using 64p (and you probably would with TC), its a simpler option. Changing the spur is a 5 min job on the TC3/4, so do not worry about it. My only complaint is the steering. The design is somewhat flawed, and unfortunately is more limiting then many other competitor options. Even grinding down the C-hubs, I am at the stops on the rack, and every other car can turn a tighter circle then I can. Setup can help with this under braking and power, but you have to adjust your setup knowing that you are compensating for a lack of steering (at least I have to on a tight indoor carpet track). That is the key reason I am looking at other chassis options. The TC4 steering rack is different from the TC3, many people think it is worse, and the c-hubs and axles still give the same limitations.

17.5 TC: The car in my hands has never been competitive. It is possible it is all in the setup, but I have not been able to get the car to handle the power of a boosted 17.5 well. The instant power transfer and torque steer make the steep acceleration harder to handle, and while the car can rotate quite well in the corner, it can be somewhat unpredictable, and requires more finesse then I am able to give. Steering is a non issue as I can break the back end loose at will to rotate in the corners, but I never feel like the car is solidly planted. Tight indoor carpet is not ideal for boosted TC either though. The increased weight of the TC3/4 also becomes more of a factor in TC, as there is not the massive weight minimum you have in VTA. When you start looking at Diggity and BMI chassis upgrades, you could have gotten a newer generation TC car instead. Maintenance also has not been an issue, other then I break more parts, hubs, suspension arms, and hinge pin mounts specifically.

I have no experience with the other chassis options, but after a year with the TC3's, I am looking into other options, all belt drive. My VTA car is a top-5 car in our current mix of people that I run with, but moving into the top 3 usually means one of the top folks has to break or not show up. The top runners all seem to have Xray chassis', from T2 006's to the newer T3 2011. That being said, I am also faster then many others, including Xray's, TC5/TC6's, and some Sakura's. As time progresses, and skills increase, I think I will find myself more at the limit of the car and the adjustability, and will become less competitive.

Grant
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:07 AM   #15
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I have the TB03. It is IMO the best handling shaft driven plastic chassis car. It is also very expensive for a plastic chassis car so thats why it isn't as popular. It has the Tamiya trf416 style suspension and the same drivetrain design as the Tamiya TBevoV which is a huge plus. There is not enough metal though stock, plastic shocks, diff halves? The screws are not very good and there is some slop in the steering. These problems are all fixed by some upgrades. There are spares all over the net but not many in USA LHS. The drivetrain is sealed including the spur gear and pinion gear. Changing pinions is straight forward. The Body shells that come with the kit are better detailed than the tc4 and the ifs suspension allows bodies with a low nose but can also be changed back to the conventional stand up damper system. The car is very quite if you build it well, the diffs must be shimmed correctly. For the money i spent on it and the hop ups, i couldve got a trf417
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