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Old 10-03-2011, 02:48 AM   #16
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The most important thing to remember with the tc3/4 is battery weight ! For a class like 17.5 or 13.5 blinky, a 3800mah 250gram lipo pack is good enough. There is no need to get those 60+c 5300mah packs that weigh 309grams ! The tc3/4 will not have a weight issue if you additionally use lightweight electronics ! As for the steering issue, it is a setup issue more than anything else !!!!
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:58 AM   #17
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Also the factory team tc4 is lighter than the rtr . I have my 13.5t fttc4 at 1370grams with a tp3200mah (208grams) pack, and I have a heavy Gtb esc with a standard servo, not low profile ! I could potentially loose another 40grams if I get a tekin Rs and a low profile savox 1251 servo !
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:27 AM   #18
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Guys,

I really appreciate all of your input. Thank you for your in-depth descriptions. I have already purchased a TC4 Team car (not FT, but the one with upgrades not found on the RTR).

I am still waiting to hear about the JL10e regarding its 200mm width and any issues with competing in classes dominated by 190mm width chassis (like TC). Can 190mm and 200mm wide cars race in the same class, or are there separate classes?

The JL10e looks very attractive due to its price, that is why I ask.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:49 PM   #19
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Belts aren't nearly as bad as you're thinking they are. They are very easy to adjust and they make diff maintenance so much easier. If you're only going to be running on race tracks you won't have any issues with debris getting into the belts. I'd recommend getting a used carbon chassis'd belt drive car (get whatever brand is most popular at your local track). You'll be able to get more setup help this way and people will have parts in their tool boxes you might be able to bum off them in case something weird breaks.
An Xray T2'008 roller can be had for around $100 now.

My 2 cents.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:24 PM   #20
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I was considering going with the TC5R since I do like Associated for several reasons, number one being that parts are everywhere and relatively inexpensive compared to XRay, for example. However, I read, and was told by one person, that the TC5 series was very difficult to make quick setup changes at the track. That is one of the things that turned me off of it.

Was I misinformed?
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Old 10-03-2011, 03:16 PM   #21
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What does that mean? The hardest thing to deal with is the hinge pin holders. Mostly you needed a good ball end driver.

Other than that, it's the same as any other car out there.
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:50 PM   #22
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Mojomandan, if your tc4 rtr has lots of blue screws, then you have the aluminum screw kit that reduces weight by about 20grams . Make sure you get protoform vta body, low profile servo, low weight battery pack, and a tekin rs speedo to keep your car's weight as low as possible . You will see quite a few podium finishes with that combo !!!!
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:56 PM   #23
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Tekin RS isn't approved for VTA...

http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:53 PM   #24
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The bottom line is keep the tc4 as light as possible, even without the tekin RS speedo !
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:05 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MojoManDan View Post
I was considering going with the TC5R ...
If considering belt cars, then consider TA05R , (or cheaper TA05v2 etc).
In stock racing (silvercan etc), these are just as competitive as a $$$$ Xray, TC6 etc, shown by how many finish in the top 5 at national events in NZ.

You also want to think about if you are only racing stock/vta etc or also the faster TC class's with higher power motors...
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:17 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=MojoManDan;9731134]Didn't realize that it was that hard to gear the TT01R. Thank you for the info.

Do you have the TB-03? If so, how does it stack up against my questions?


i have used a friend's tb03. i have to agree with some of the comments made about the tb03 being a good car but in need of the hop ups which drive up the price. i personally run tamiya belt cars and i haven't had a problem with any of those. however, if you really like associated for the money you can't be the tc6 as a current high end roller. it fixes a lot of the issues people had with the tc5 and it is a super car at a super price point.
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:49 AM   #27
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TT01 isn't a good choice. Nice beginner chassis but motor mount only allows for specific pinion sizes. Not reasonable given the required gearing choices.
TC3 and TC4. Both good choices but given that the TC4 is a bit newer I'd go with it. Very competitive for VTA and USGT. Less so for any ROAR classes using 17.5 or lower turn. You'd be competing against much newer chassis in ROAR classes. VTA and USGT drivers aren't so demanding so using older chassis is the norm rather than the exception.
JL10. Not a fan. Reasonably priced but soft plastic in areas like the C Hubs makes them unreliable. Parts are inexpensive but nothing is more frustrating than constant breakage.
TB03. Great car for these less speed oriented classes. Little brother to the very successful EVO series cars (evo3,4,and 5). Pricey and harder to get parts for as the Evo series is all but discontinued.
Have experience with all these cars and my club races VTA,USGT and 17.5 TC only.
Good Luck and Have Fun with whatever choice you make.
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