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Old 12-12-2011, 11:32 AM   #16
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Thought I'd share a couple pics of my new Speedmerchant WGT3 with an AE front end. If it looks like there is a lot of front toe on the overhead, there's not. My camera fish-eyed the shot. The tires are pointed straight ahead, maybe 1/2 degree at most.
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SpeedMerchant World GT3-pc080078.jpg   SpeedMerchant World GT3-pc080081.jpg   SpeedMerchant World GT3-pc080082.jpg   SpeedMerchant World GT3-pc080086.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:09 PM   #17
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Looks great Todd, just flip that center shock around... they are happier cap side up.
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:32 PM   #18
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Here's the latest, beat a track record last night by 7 seconds that had been posted since early October. The Old Skool front end is absolutely evil and made this car even better than it was with the R5 front end I used at the TZGP. Battery even farther forward, new battery strap and stop deck combo, and .18 front springs

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Old 12-15-2011, 10:00 PM   #19
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Here is my setup from the Timezone GP this last weekend. The car is great like this. Nevermind the battery, I was short on packs for this race.

What left side hub are you using? And are those bearings you are using as spacers?
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:06 PM   #20
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The left side hub is wrong, Bruce has promised that one day I will get the correct one hint hint Bruce.

Production kits come with the IRS WGT 200mm axle and hub set. Look at Todd's car above.

The shims are just that, aluminum spacers. Don't know part numbers but they have been around forever.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
Here's the latest, beat a track record last night by 7 seconds that had been posted since early October. The Old Skool front end is absolutely evil and made this car even better than it was with the R5 front end I used at the TZGP. Battery even farther forward, new battery strap and stop deck combo, and .18 front springs

How many hundreds of dollars in weight do you have strapped to that chassis? That car must be LIGHT......

And how do you like the Travis Schreven signature series D1?
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:30 AM   #22
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Ah the motor is great! Actually I think my Revtech is a little better, but I wanted to put it up against a known "good" motor... so what better than a motor that has won a few nationals and made the mod A-Main at last year's Snowbirds against 3.5-5.5 motors

The weights are cheap man, Harbor Freight!
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:12 PM   #23
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Is everyone still happy with this car? I have been thinking about asking Santa but realistically maybe getting one for next season. Is the old school front end the best way for these cars? Also is all the weight you have added really important?
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:12 PM   #24
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You can ask Todd (putawaywet) if you want a customers point of view.

But yes, the car is awesome. Took down a track record at our local club by over 7sec on the last night of a track layout that hand been up for a full calendar year and that was after switching from the R5 front end to the old school front end

The weight brings the car up to ROAR legal weight of 960g. It's really nice having such a light car because it allows you to tune the balance. I have moved the lead all over (look at the pic I've posted in this thread), and like the most recent layout best. It's also nice because I have made a pocket for the battery, I don't have to use tape to secure it anymore, just drop it in and screw the shock mount down
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:43 PM   #25
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I really like my WGT3. To be clear, I'm new to WGT racing, though I've raced quite a lot of 1/12th scale, so pan cars are not a foreign subject.

I ordered the Sport version and then swapped in the AE front end. I'm a fan of the AE front in general, and I like having caster and camber adjustments at hand. That said, the overall car is very simple and straightforward. Bruce seems to have achieved the fundamental and important goal of locating and drilling the holes in the right spots. There aren't wheelbase and/or shock positions to sort out. It's just a straightforward, balanced chassis with good materials.

The first day I was set up as in the pictures with 10deg blocks, medium caster, and .020 front springs. It pushed like a dump truck. Day two I came back with 0deg blocks, full caster, still .020 springs, and I had plenty of steering. I sorted out camber, sauce, and tire diameter, and by the end of the day I had a race car on my hands. I look forward to more.

I'm chasing some pretty fast guys, but I'll post a setup and pictures when I get it to a good place. I'm going to B.C. for the Vic round of the WCICS, so it will be race-tested.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:11 PM   #26
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What are the blue metal parts in the "Old School" front end? I don't see them when I go to order the (smr1790) Machined Old School Front Suspension.

Thanks!
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:59 PM   #27
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They are out of stock at the moment.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
..
The weight brings the car up to ROAR legal weight of 960g. It's really nice having such a light car because it allows you to tune the balance. I have moved the lead all over (look at the pic I've posted in this thread), and like the most recent layout best. It's also nice because I have made a pocket for the battery, I don't have to use tape to secure it anymore, just drop it in and screw the shock mount down
have you measured the front/rear weight distribution?
just curious what distribution you ended up with. it looks nearly 50/50.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:24 PM   #29
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Putting my together at the moment, Good thin I just put a rev 6 together cause its still fresh in my mind.. I've tried lots of front ends and I always end up at te old skool, cant beat the machined ones it takes the guesswork out and never changes! I added a header card to take a deg of toe out, simple and effective
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:00 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PutAwayWet View Post
I really like my WGT3. To be clear, I'm new to WGT racing, though I've raced quite a lot of 1/12th scale, so pan cars are not a foreign subject.

I ordered the Sport version and then swapped in the AE front end. I'm a fan of the AE front in general, and I like having caster and camber adjustments at hand. That said, the overall car is very simple and straightforward. Bruce seems to have achieved the fundamental and important goal of locating and drilling the holes in the right spots. There aren't wheelbase and/or shock positions to sort out. It's just a straightforward, balanced chassis with good materials.

The first day I was set up as in the pictures with 10deg blocks, medium caster, and .020 front springs. It pushed like a dump truck. Day two I came back with 0deg blocks, full caster, still .020 springs, and I had plenty of steering. I sorted out camber, sauce, and tire diameter, and by the end of the day I had a race car on my hands. I look forward to more.

I'm chasing some pretty fast guys, but I'll post a setup and pictures when I get it to a good place. I'm going to B.C. for the Vic round of the WCICS, so it will be race-tested.
As soon as you go to zero degree blocks, the advantages of the other front-ends is all but erased. Just shim the old skool to your preferred
caster/camber settings, and you should be DIALED.
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