Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

Xray T3 2012

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2012, 02:33 PM
  #3481  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (66)
 
Jamison R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 3,624
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

+1 on arm reamer. And a lot of patience.
Jamison R is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:46 PM
  #3482  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeXray
Have you tried the progressive springs in the rear? I don't have enough runs on them outdoors to say that I am going to stick with them, but they did seem to help rotation. Generally a stiffer car, both flex and sprung will transition better, but at a cost of something else.
I have not tried them... It is an idea....
bvoltz is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:47 PM
  #3483  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wwddww34
Here's some food for thought... I have 2 Xrays. One is a T3 '11 (with all the mods to 2012) and the other is an original T3 (2010). They both have spools in the front and gear diffs w/ 700 cst oil in the rear. I have set both of them up for 17.5 Non-Timing Sedan racing. Both cars had the same motor, ESC, receiver, and battery in them. Surprisingly I found that the T3 '11 feels lazier when going around corners than the original T3 does. Both cars have identical servos in them, Futaba S9551, so it's not a matter of servo speed. I'm beginning to wonder if the original (i.e. single post) steering mechanics makes the car feel quicker when going around corners.
Interesting...
bvoltz is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:49 PM
  #3484  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M-Technic
Try shortening your camber links. I run the middle hole in the front, and the short hole in the rear. The car is very responsive.
What will a heavier shock oil do? This is the one part the of setup I just can not seem to get into my head... Springs and Oil .....
bvoltz is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 03:39 PM
  #3485  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,555
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by artwork
The arm mounts (little plastic blocks) need to be fastened tight, but the arms should drop and move very freely. This step takes a while and may require an arm reamer to get perfect.
I did the fronts and the blocks are tight and the arms were reamed. The only difference was I lightly sanded all the plastic pieces that touch (mounts, spacers, arms) with some 1200 and they move like bearings are in them and have no front/back play. Gotta go back and do the rears that way now
PROMODVETTE is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 03:57 PM
  #3486  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
kinga is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:26 PM
  #3487  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE
So I am building my car right now. I'm at the arm installation part now and have a question.

When you put the arms on, are you tightening them all the way then backing the screws out until the arm can fall under its own weight or how loose is loose enough?
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE
I did the fronts and the blocks are tight and the arms were reamed. The only difference was I lightly sanded all the plastic pieces that touch (mounts, spacers, arms) with some 1200 and they move like bearings are in them and have no front/back play. Gotta go back and do the rears that way now
The pivot pins should remain stationary, it's only the arms that should move around the pivot pins.
I also changed the plastic wheelbase spacers for alloy versions.
Skiddins is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:28 PM
  #3488  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,721
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kinga
I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
What droop, oil, front camber link, sway bar, which top deck, bumpsteer spacers, front diff type, lower pin height?
Fred Hubbard is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:30 PM
  #3489  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by bvoltz
What will a heavier shock oil do? This is the one part the of setup I just can not seem to get into my head... Springs and Oil .....
Springs control 'how much' and oil controls 'how fast'

Thicker front oil and/or stiffer front spring will improve the steering reaction when entering a corner but will compromise mid corner etc.

What surface/tyres are you using?
It might be easier for us to post a setup that we might use in the same circumtances, especially as we don't know what you're using now.

Skiddins
Skiddins is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:47 PM
  #3490  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
What droop, oil, front camber link, sway bar, which top deck, bumpsteer spacers, front diff type, lower pin height?
Kit top deck
6mm front 5mm rear droop ORH
350 cst oil
1.5mm spacer under front outer camber link, inner camber link no spacers in the outer bulkhead
kit front swaybar, 1.1 mm rear sway bar
2mm bump steer spacers
spool front diff
kit lower pin roll center holders(middle dot)
kinga is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:50 PM
  #3491  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

This is the google map of the track, 120 foot straight in front of the drivers stand with fast 90 degree sweeper at the end. Car pushes into the grass at times. Traction is low-medium on the track at the moment

http://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=wyn...ueensland&z=20
kinga is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 04:59 PM
  #3492  
NR
Tech Master
iTrader: (52)
 
NR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,535
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kinga
I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
Weird, I feel it gives it both more steering and rear grip. I have plenty of steering, I would go to 2 Deg toe out on the fr and also try a gear diff in the front, also low roll centres on the Fr Mid on the rear.


Nathan
NR is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:13 PM
  #3493  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Nathan, What Oil are you running in the front diff? I tried 300 000 a while ago but found it squirmy under braking.
Are you using the .5mm spacers under the bulkheads? I am not using any spacers under the bulkheads btw.
kinga is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:32 PM
  #3494  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
RCknight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,294
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

As a rule of thumb, I always though a car that flexes more will feel lazy? Are people racing on carpet? My car always felt lazy without using the center chassis post behind the steering.
RCknight is offline  
Old 08-15-2012, 06:14 PM
  #3495  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Lazy would be a good explanation of the car with the 2mm chassis. It definitely has a lot more flex when holding it in your hands and twisting it. I was thinking the lazyness was due to the roll centers being .5mm lower due to the chassis being .5 mm thinner, but the flex is probably more the reason.
Would the Lower front roll center suspension holders make the car twitchy and loose on the rear though?
kinga is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.