Xray T3 2012
#2701
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
Not sure where you race as you don't have a location listed. Windy day here in the Midwest yesterday. We were all having the same trouble and concluded it was just the wind doing it. We all were having to trim out radios to go straight on the straightaway.
Could be tweak or some other kind of imbalance. What kind of servo? Are you running a cap on your receiver? Maybe the servo is losing power (strength) at full throttle?
Could be tweak or some other kind of imbalance. What kind of servo? Are you running a cap on your receiver? Maybe the servo is losing power (strength) at full throttle?
#2703
You should check
Tweak
Servo saver
Bearings
Shocks (if all4 still have same amount of rebound)
Tweak
Servo saver
Bearings
Shocks (if all4 still have same amount of rebound)
#2706
ok so in his setup sheet he has a 1mm checked off for the front, so this would mean that a 1mm go infront of the front wishbone and nothing in the rear, and in the rear he has the 2mm and the 0 checked off, this would mean he puts a 2mm in the front rear wishbone and the remaining 1mm in the rear?, thanks for your help guys
#2707
#2708
Can anyhone tell me what the front trackwidth is when setup as kit?
Thanks
Skiddins
Thanks
Skiddins
#2710
Tech Adept
Diff position
Hi,
Ive noticed in recent setups that people are now putting the diffs in the upward position rather than the down position which is kit. What affect does changing the diff position have on the cars handling?
Ive noticed in recent setups that people are now putting the diffs in the upward position rather than the down position which is kit. What affect does changing the diff position have on the cars handling?
#2711
I had a similar question over in the '11 thread. What I was told is that 90 degrees with the arm and chasis isn't what you are looking for. Rather, you want 90 degrees between the link and the arm. The arc the arm travels is what you need to be concerned with.
If you have your arm perfectly centered and your endpoints adjusted for full lock, check their values. I bet they are not the same.
I had some weird steering issues going on and after adjusting using the following technique my steering has really improved.
Here is the method:
If your right endpoint is higher, shorten the link, adjust subtrim to center steering, readjust endpoints for steering symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
If your left endpoint is higher, make the link longer, adjust subtrim to center the steering, readjust endpoints for symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
Due to some steering layouts, if may be necessary to reverse the above procedure.
Worked great for me, but it is a bit tedious!
#2712
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
I had a similar question over in the '11 thread. What I was told is that 90 degrees with the arm and chasis isn't what you are looking for. Rather, you want 90 degrees between the link and the arm. The arc the arm travels is what you need to be concerned with.
If you have your arm perfectly centered and your endpoints adjusted for full lock, check their values. I bet they are not the same.
I had some weird steering issues going on and after adjusting using the following technique my steering has really improved.
Here is the method:
If your right endpoint is higher, shorten the link, adjust subtrim to center steering, readjust endpoints for steering symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
If your left endpoint is higher, make the link longer, adjust subtrim to center the steering, readjust endpoints for symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
Due to some steering layouts, if may be necessary to reverse the above procedure.
Worked great for me, but it is a bit tedious!
If you have your arm perfectly centered and your endpoints adjusted for full lock, check their values. I bet they are not the same.
I had some weird steering issues going on and after adjusting using the following technique my steering has really improved.
Here is the method:
If your right endpoint is higher, shorten the link, adjust subtrim to center steering, readjust endpoints for steering symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
If your left endpoint is higher, make the link longer, adjust subtrim to center the steering, readjust endpoints for symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.
Due to some steering layouts, if may be necessary to reverse the above procedure.
Worked great for me, but it is a bit tedious!
#2714
I have a converted (east/west) config on my '11 and I have really close to 90 between my link and servo saver. My endpoints are exactly the same now whereas before they were about 25 points difference.