pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the input. The challenge for me is to resolve the grip roll issue without giving too much away, the car works so well as it is (when the rubber side is down). Raising the front RC is a large step that I may have to take eventually but, I'd like to try a few smaller adjustments before I start numbing the front end of the car.

NR

iTrader: (52)

Hi Guys,


I need a bit of help, what is the droop setting for the front and rear? I have forgotten.

And using the droop blocks to set and change that, is that the best way to go about it?

Thanks
Nathan

mazmorbid

iTrader: (11)

You could check the setup sheets for carpet or asphalt.

Regarding droop, have a read of the Setup Guide. Page 10.

NR

iTrader: (52)

Also, I was reading one of Paul Lemieux's setups and I didn't understand what he meant by droop 3.5 mm on top of the ride height, can anyone shed some light?

Cheers

hacker

iTrader: (141)

pick up the chassis from underneath with the smallest hex you have, and lift until the wheels just leave the table.

just say your ride height is 6.0mm, a droop of 3.5mm over ride height is when this measurement is 9.5mm.

hope that makes sense

Swanny

iTrader: (3)

It means that when the car is at normal ride height, the chassis will move 3.5 mm before the tyres lift off the ground. Alternatively, if you use 5 mm ride height, the tyres leave the ground when the car is at 8.5 mm. It's a combination of downstops and ride height.

OleC

I'm almost finished building my T3 2012, but one thing just seems wrong...

The manual says no spacers for the rear suspesnion holders (narrow rear), and the kit is supplied with 52mm axles. There is no way I can get negative camber with this setup, even after trimming the top of the blades.

Have I done something wrong here, or should the kit have 50mm axles instead of the supplied 52mm ones?

Seems odd that its not possible to build the car according to the manual.

Edit: Johnny Whishbone says you're limited to 2* negative camber with this setup (or was that with 50mm axles?), but I'm closer to 10* positive camber when binding starts. So I suspect something is wrong...

taz00

You must have done something wrong.
Have you put the shims in the back of the rear arm holders?

Mb3195

You need to put 1.5mm spacers in the back end of the suspension holders. 52mm fit fine, although it is a bit tight - I always run 50mm in the back to make sure of no binding!

OleC

I really need to stop building my cars late at night… No, I havent put the 1,5mm toe-in shim on….

Thanks guys!

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Ran the car first with 2mm bump steer shims yesterday, then switched to 3.5mm spacers (parallel with the drive shafts). It really did help the mid corner steering a lot, enough that I was able to remove my anti-squat from the rear of the car, and go back to the -0.75mm roll center holders. Overall the car is a lot easier to drive now. Driving mod on a high grip asphalt track, this really helped with mid and exit steering, along with keeping the rear planted with that mod power.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I tried a ton of different setups last night trying to limit traction rolling. I ended up with: CST 463 front oil, CST 425 rear oil (1.0 X 3 pistons), angled front sway bar links (rearward), +75 front hexes, -10 steering expo. The rest of the setup is still pretty much basic carpet. Still not 100% but, much improved.

morgoth

are you driving with the shortest links front and rear?

Skiddins

You could also add to the list of things to try;

Wider shims at the wishbone
-0.75 rear hexes
And don't rule out trying softer springs
Also, a lightweight bodyshell can help remove a lot of weight from higher up!

My steering expo is always at -15-20%
If it's happening on corners that aren't that tight, try limiting your end points to 70-80%

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

No. I've only tried mid and long, figured that the increased camber gain with short links would only make things worse. What's you experience with short links?