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Xray T3 2012

Old 01-30-2012, 08:25 AM
  #1366  
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.
You may be right... I may not have conveyed properly that the car has 1* of toe no matter how many shims you're using. But, I was reading the setup book which said the rear blocks have 1* built-in (that may be where I'm getting this from), but I guess that could've changed. Either way, with no shims and kit blocks (that say 0 on them), I would have 1* of toe... and I don't on the left side..
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:36 AM
  #1367  
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The spacers aren't always the correct thickness. I found the silver 1.5 spacers a lot more accurate and consistent than the black 1.5 kit spacers. I've had some .4 spacers that were closer to .5 than .4. I would have expected these to be a lot more accurate considering how much we pay for the xray spacers. In case you were wondering, I measure using mitutoyo calipers.

Keep the above in mind when getting weird inconsistent toe.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:31 AM
  #1368  
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hello there

im new to this kit and got lot of positive feedback about t3 platform, before this im running Associated TC6, the handling is superb, but i little dissapointed, the kit is fragile and not tough enough. My friends ask to change party to xray. Now im make the move!

i heard that the 2012 version got problem on the rear belt snapping, is there anything to overcome this problem? and at the same time keep the front belt also in good condition

If i buy the kit, what spare part should i prepare for?

Thanks for helping, newbie here
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:12 AM
  #1369  
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Having some weird rear toe issues... maybe someone can explain what is causing this effect...

Essentially, I think one of my aluminum bulkheads for the rear inner hinge pins is bent, but I've looked at them on the board and don't see anything noticable, but when I shim the car for a certain rear toe, let's say 2*, the left side will show me 1* and the right side shows me 1.7*...

Here's what's even weirder...

I figured I would try to shim the left side to match the right side, so I took all the toe shims out and put it on the setup station. Left side is 0* and right side is 1* (1* is right, the hubs have a 1* toe built in right?) So in theory, if I add a 0.75 shim to the left side and leave the right side as it is, they should both end up at 1*. Well, that's not the case. The left side will shim to about 0.5* and the right side is now at 1.5*.

Why is the right side toe affected by adjusting the shimming on the left side?

I then added a 0.4 shim to the left side, and this brings in the left side to just under 1*, but now the right side is at 2.25*.

I then add a 0.75 shim to the left side (so now there's 2x0.75 shims and 1x0.40 shims on the left side, nothing on the right side) and the toe is dead on at 2* each side.

Took a 0.75 shim out of the left, put it in the right side (now 0.75 and 0.40 on left, 0.75 on right), and I get ~1.75* toe on the left side and 2.25* of toe on the right side.

What it looks like, is that shimming the left side is also affecting the right side. Something really weird is going on here...
Sounds strange to me.
I had to put 0,4mm shim in left rear and now I have 3. And this was on the kit of a friend of mine exactly the same.
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:29 AM
  #1370  
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
You may be right... I may not have conveyed properly that the car has 1* of toe no matter how many shims you're using. But, I was reading the setup book which said the rear blocks have 1* built-in (that may be where I'm getting this from), but I guess that could've changed. Either way, with no shims and kit blocks (that say 0 on them), I would have 1* of toe... and I don't on the left side..
I have had this issue in the past and its been down to the rear front split blocks...

This is due to the fact that when you tighten the screw from underneath, it turns the blocks fractionally. This tends to reduce the toe on the left side and increase the toe on the right side. When attaching these to the chassis, try and hold them straight and don't over tighten them.

Personally I use the 1 piece rear block as it gives perfectly consistent toe in every time.
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:30 AM
  #1371  
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.
I think he means the aluminum mounting blocks, which have built in toe even with you remove all the washers/spacers.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:36 PM
  #1372  
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Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
hello there

im new to this kit and got lot of positive feedback about t3 platform, before this im running Associated TC6, the handling is superb, but i little dissapointed, the kit is fragile and not tough enough. My friends ask to change party to xray. Now im make the move!

i heard that the 2012 version got problem on the rear belt snapping, is there anything to overcome this problem? and at the same time keep the front belt also in good condition

If i buy the kit, what spare part should i prepare for?

Thanks for helping, newbie here
Just run the rear belt a bit tighter than you normally would.

As for spares, some of the usual, a few spacers in case you lose some couple of wishbones and belts etc
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:19 PM
  #1373  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Just run the rear belt a bit tighter than you normally would.

As for spares, some of the usual, a few spacers in case you lose some couple of wishbones and belts etc
Skiddins, which belt position +/- from initial position do you reccomend for 10,5T boosted Nosram Pure spec motor?
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:25 PM
  #1374  
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i will be use gear diff in rear and spool upfront, so tighten the rear belt more can avoid the snapping case?
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:34 AM
  #1375  
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
Skiddins, which belt position +/- from initial position do you reccomend for 10,5T boosted Nosram Pure spec motor?
Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
i will be use gear diff in rear and spool upfront, so tighten the rear belt more can avoid the snapping case?
For a brand new belt the initial vertical position is usually OK. If not, I run it one notch tighter.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:03 AM
  #1376  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
For a brand new belt the initial vertical position is usually OK. If not, I run it one notch tighter.

Really? Thats tight, so I put it much looser as I would in a ball diff. Luckily the season hasn't started yet so I havent really driven it yet
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:19 AM
  #1377  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
For a brand new belt the initial vertical position is usually OK. If not, I run it one notch tighter.
ow thanks for the feedback at my local town, all racer taht use the '12 edition seem to have same problem, their belt keep snapping, but the performance of the car superb.

any other tips?
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:31 AM
  #1378  
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I haven't run stock in a long time. You can probably run the belt looser in stock. I run boosted modified, and if I run the belt too loose the teeth get chewed up and/or the belt snaps.
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:49 PM
  #1379  
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Originally Posted by Phil C View Post
I have had this issue in the past and its been down to the rear front split blocks...

This is due to the fact that when you tighten the screw from underneath, it turns the blocks fractionally. This tends to reduce the toe on the left side and increase the toe on the right side. When attaching these to the chassis, try and hold them straight and don't over tighten them.

Personally I use the 1 piece rear block as it gives perfectly consistent toe in every time.
This is 100% spot on. My car needed a .4 shim on the left to get to 3 degrees toe. It is in fact that the independent suspension mounts twist when you tighten them down to the chassis like mentioned above. My car was exactly like this. I bought the 1 piece mount as an option piece and my car came out with 3 degrees on each side without having to add extra washers to one side and the car was noticeably better and more consistent.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:35 PM
  #1380  
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Originally Posted by DJG24 View Post
This is 100% spot on. My car needed a .4 shim on the left to get to 3 degrees toe. It is in fact that the independent suspension mounts twist when you tighten them down to the chassis like mentioned above. My car was exactly like this. I bought the 1 piece mount as an option piece and my car came out with 3 degrees on each side without having to add extra washers to one side and the car was noticeably better and more consistent.
One piece mount part #?
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