Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.

Originally Posted by kuruption

Having some weird rear toe issues... maybe someone can explain what is causing this effect...

Essentially, I think one of my aluminum bulkheads for the rear inner hinge pins is bent, but I've looked at them on the board and don't see anything noticable, but when I shim the car for a certain rear toe, let's say 2*, the left side will show me 1* and the right side shows me 1.7*...

Here's what's even weirder...

I figured I would try to shim the left side to match the right side, so I took all the toe shims out and put it on the setup station. Left side is 0* and right side is 1* (1* is right, the hubs have a 1* toe built in right?) So in theory, if I add a 0.75 shim to the left side and leave the right side as it is, they should both end up at 1*. Well, that's not the case. The left side will shim to about 0.5* and the right side is now at 1.5*.

Why is the right side toe affected by adjusting the shimming on the left side?

I then added a 0.4 shim to the left side, and this brings in the left side to just under 1*, but now the right side is at 2.25*.

I then add a 0.75 shim to the left side (so now there's 2x0.75 shims and 1x0.40 shims on the left side, nothing on the right side) and the toe is dead on at 2* each side.

Took a 0.75 shim out of the left, put it in the right side (now 0.75 and 0.40 on left, 0.75 on right), and I get ~1.75* toe on the left side and 2.25* of toe on the right side.

What it looks like, is that shimming the left side is also affecting the right side. Something really weird is going on here...

Originally Posted by kuruption

You may be right... I may not have conveyed properly that the car has 1* of toe no matter how many shims you're using. But, I was reading the setup book which said the rear blocks have 1* built-in (that may be where I'm getting this from), but I guess that could've changed. Either way, with no shims and kit blocks (that say 0 on them), I would have 1* of toe... and I don't on the left side..

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.

Originally Posted by Ariel Reds

hello there

im new to this kit and got lot of positive feedback about t3 platform, before this im running Associated TC6, the handling is superb, but i little dissapointed, the kit is fragile and not tough enough. My friends ask to change party to xray. Now im make the move!

i heard that the 2012 version got problem on the rear belt snapping, is there anything to overcome this problem? and at the same time keep the front belt also in good condition

If i buy the kit, what spare part should i prepare for?

Thanks for helping, newbie here

Originally Posted by Skiddins

Just run the rear belt a bit tighter than you normally would.

As for spares, some of the usual, a few spacers in case you lose some couple of wishbones and belts etc

Originally Posted by UrabusDenis

Skiddins, which belt position +/- from initial position do you reccomend for 10,5T boosted Nosram Pure spec motor?

Originally Posted by Ariel Reds

i will be use gear diff in rear and spool upfront, so tighten the rear belt more can avoid the snapping case?

Originally Posted by M-Technic

For a brand new belt the initial vertical position is usually OK. If not, I run it one notch tighter.

Originally Posted by M-Technic

For a brand new belt the initial vertical position is usually OK. If not, I run it one notch tighter.

Originally Posted by Phil C

I have had this issue in the past and its been down to the rear front split blocks...

This is due to the fact that when you tighten the screw from underneath, it turns the blocks fractionally. This tends to reduce the toe on the left side and increase the toe on the right side. When attaching these to the chassis, try and hold them straight and don't over tighten them.

Personally I use the 1 piece rear block as it gives perfectly consistent toe in every time.

Originally Posted by DJG24

This is 100% spot on. My car needed a .4 shim on the left to get to 3 degrees toe. It is in fact that the independent suspension mounts twist when you tighten them down to the chassis like mentioned above. My car was exactly like this. I bought the 1 piece mount as an option piece and my car came out with 3 degrees on each side without having to add extra washers to one side and the car was noticeably better and more consistent.