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Xray T3 2012

Old 01-28-2012, 12:50 PM
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Default T3 2011 vs. T3 2012

Are the plastics the same between cars?
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Old 01-28-2012, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I race at a fairly technical track, the rear end of my t3 was too planted causing the chassis to not properly rotate through the turns (s turn). When I went to 1* outboards (along with a longer rear link) the car really came alive in that particular section. I made both changes (outboard and longer rear link) at the same time. I feel that the longer link, combined with the outboard 1*, made more of a difference than if I would of just changed the outboards alone.
Curious, what's your final rear toe at?
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Are the plastics the same between cars?
Yes they are
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Are the plastics the same between cars?
Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
Yes they are
I think the knuckles may be a different hardness?
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mizah View Post
Have anyone try the modification rear suspension like Hagberg did on DHI cup? How does it feel? Will it works on asphalt? Thanks
Anyone??
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:01 AM
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hey i just picked up a new t3 11 is here that much of a difference compared to the 12 should i convert it to a 12 not to sure electric touring is new to me thanks
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:02 PM
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Finally getting around to setting up my steering. I'm running the Savox SC-1251LP servo. I think I need a shorter steering link since the kit one is bottomed out in the cups and when the Servo is at 90* the wheels are too far to the left by a smidge.

Anyone else running this servo? What servo link did you use?
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:24 AM
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I had the same issue with my futaba 9551.
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:56 AM
  #1359  
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Originally Posted by mizah View Post
Anyone??
No, he's only just done it himself, and remember, he said on the Xray forums that it does make it more difficult to drive.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Finally getting around to setting up my steering. I'm running the Savox SC-1251LP servo. I think I need a shorter steering link since the kit one is bottomed out in the cups and when the Servo is at 90* the wheels are too far to the left by a smidge.

Anyone else running this servo? What servo link did you use?
I run the same servo. I will check my car when I get back from work but I remember that fully screwed in the link was ok.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:13 AM
  #1361  
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Finally getting around to setting up my steering. I'm running the Savox SC-1251LP servo. I think I need a shorter steering link since the kit one is bottomed out in the cups and when the Servo is at 90* the wheels are too far to the left by a smidge.

Anyone else running this servo? What servo link did you use?
I found this when converting mine over to the new servo position.

I bought a spare camber link as I recall and Dremel'd off a couple of mm at each end to make sure I had enough room for adjustment.

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Old 01-30-2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Finally getting around to setting up my steering. I'm running the Savox SC-1251LP servo. I think I need a shorter steering link since the kit one is bottomed out in the cups and when the Servo is at 90* the wheels are too far to the left by a smidge.

Anyone else running this servo? What servo link did you use?
I had the exact same issue, I just used a Dremel and cut the steering link down a bit....I took off about 2mm per side and now it works perfect.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:37 AM
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You could go one step further.........remove that stupid chassis pip, move the post, trim one of the servo ears and get the whole thing a lot closer to the centre line.








Bb
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:59 AM
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Having some weird rear toe issues... maybe someone can explain what is causing this effect...

Essentially, I think one of my aluminum bulkheads for the rear inner hinge pins is bent, but I've looked at them on the board and don't see anything noticable, but when I shim the car for a certain rear toe, let's say 2*, the left side will show me 1* and the right side shows me 1.7*...

Here's what's even weirder...

I figured I would try to shim the left side to match the right side, so I took all the toe shims out and put it on the setup station. Left side is 0* and right side is 1* (1* is right, the hubs have a 1* toe built in right?) So in theory, if I add a 0.75 shim to the left side and leave the right side as it is, they should both end up at 1*. Well, that's not the case. The left side will shim to about 0.5* and the right side is now at 1.5*.

Why is the right side toe affected by adjusting the shimming on the left side?

I then added a 0.4 shim to the left side, and this brings in the left side to just under 1*, but now the right side is at 2.25*.

I then add a 0.75 shim to the left side (so now there's 2x0.75 shims and 1x0.40 shims on the left side, nothing on the right side) and the toe is dead on at 2* each side.

Took a 0.75 shim out of the left, put it in the right side (now 0.75 and 0.40 on left, 0.75 on right), and I get ~1.75* toe on the left side and 2.25* of toe on the right side.

What it looks like, is that shimming the left side is also affecting the right side. Something really weird is going on here...
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:20 AM
  #1365  
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
the hubs have a 1* toe built in right?
The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.
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