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Xray T3 2012

Old 01-15-2012, 12:20 PM
  #1246  
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I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:01 PM
  #1247  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
Loosen one of the pivot block screws and push the wishbone in that direction, while still applying the pressure, tighten the pivot block screw.

If necessary do the same to the other block.

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Old 01-15-2012, 01:11 PM
  #1248  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Loosen one of the pivot block screws and push the wishbone in that direction, while still applying the pressure, tighten the pivot block screw.

If necessary do the same to the other block.

Skiddins
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:51 PM
  #1249  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.
Which wishbones are we talking about? or all of them.

I don't see how it can get caught in the hole in the arm but move freely out of the car, unless the pivot blocks are pinching it somehow.
The pin should be held tight in the pivot blocks, it's the wishbone that should be free.

Are you reaming the wishbone or the blocks?

If it's just at the back, the two alloy mounts at the front of the rear wishbones apparently have an orientation so they need to end up actually angled in slightly to help produce the standard amount of toe.

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Old 01-15-2012, 03:00 PM
  #1250  
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If all else fails can you take a few photo's of how you have everything at the front set up.

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Old 01-15-2012, 03:39 PM
  #1251  
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It's the wishbone(arm). The holes are not aligned properly.But I found the problem. As I said before, the aluminum lower suspension mounts are too close. I had to shave a little off the arms so they would fit between the suspension mounts. Now they are free. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:55 PM
  #1252  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
How about Spec R?
I heard nothing but bad news about the Spec R ECS shafts....I heard that they are made of aluminum, and on several occasions they had sheared apart during an impact....I finished racing today with the Arrowmax ECS shafts and they performed flawlessley, even after taking two hard hits.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:07 PM
  #1253  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.

Even after you tighten the plastic hinge pin holders or rc adjusters to the aluminum blocks, you still might have to loosen the aluminum mounts via the screws thru the chassis, and then give each of the arms a slight tap with the handle of your wrench, then re-tighten the chassis screws. I had the same problem and this was the fix. I think if you tried 12 different arms the problem isn't with the mold, that seems pretty consistent.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:23 PM
  #1254  
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Smile TECH TIP: Suspension Unbinding

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2872


Originally Posted by gonzo416
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:57 AM
  #1255  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
It sounds as though one of the suspension mount screws could be bent. Hold the suspension block tight against the bulkhead whilst undoing the screws, you will be able to see if its straight as it comes out.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:13 AM
  #1256  
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Default composite shims

Hi,

Appart from to save on costs, is there any reason why the kit uses composite shims in certain places, for example either side of the wishbones?
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:11 AM
  #1257  
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Originally Posted by terryh
It sounds as though one of the suspension mount screws could be bent. Hold the suspension block tight against the bulkhead whilst undoing the screws, you will be able to see if its straight as it comes out.
Three possible things:

1) Hinge pin is bent. After removal, roll on flat surface. It will be obvious if it is bent.
2) Screw is bent. After removal, roll on flat surface. It will be obvious if the screw is bent.
3) When you tighten the screw, you need to press the arm against the block you're tightening. Otherwise, they will be slightly out of alignment, causing the hinge pin to be cocked slightly.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:30 AM
  #1258  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Even after you tighten the plastic hinge pin holders or rc adjusters to the aluminum blocks, you still might have to loosen the aluminum mounts via the screws thru the chassis, and then give each of the arms a slight tap with the handle of your wrench, then re-tighten the chassis screws. I had the same problem and this was the fix. I think if you tried 12 different arms the problem isn't with the mold, that seems pretty consistent.
This is the only thing I didn't try. I have already taken some material of the front of the arm. About .20mm, and now it's free. I will definitely try your method if the toe is off or if there is tweak. If all is good I don't want to touch it. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:34 AM
  #1259  
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Originally Posted by gonzo416
It's the wishbone(arm). The holes are not aligned properly.But I found the problem. As I said before, the aluminum lower suspension mounts are too close. I had to shave a little off the arms so they would fit between the suspension mounts. Now they are free. Thanks for the help.
Did you tried the tech tip from Xray: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic....99110ed#p41851
Worked for me. Didnt have to ream or take off material from anywhere.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:57 PM
  #1260  
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Originally Posted by bucketboy
Not for me, sold mine, my car drives loads better with measurement taken off the wheels not the gauges. (set the car up against the wheel tyre combo you intend to run)

Bb
I'd second that. I now even use a new set of very stiff wheels without tires on to get the camber spot on with the hand gauges. Its another small step in getting my pace upto the two top UK drivers at my track.

Another note, is that i've found 700cst too low for getting the car around high speed sweepers and 1000cst is a big step up. (Another tenth off my laptimes on carpet.) I'm even considering going higher. The T3 2012 has so much rear traction and side bite built in that i've found it a must to get the rear to rotate more, especially on very technical tracks. Almost Tamiya like lol!
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