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Xray T3 2012

Old 12-30-2011, 10:17 AM
  #1066  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
How do the ECS shafts compare to the stock shafts in terms of durability?

In my experience the pins shear very easy with impacts. There are new pins now but I've heard they are still fragile, though I have no personal experience with them. I've also heard that using shrink tubing and omitting the set screws that hold the pins in the coupling helps with durability as no pressure is being placed on the pin at the center thus causing a stress point. Again, I don't have any personal experience with this, just what I've heard and read.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:39 AM
  #1067  
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I bent the *#$! out of a $400 ECS, but the pins are fine.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tcdrvr2
In my experience the pins shear very easy with impacts. There are new pins now but I've heard they are still fragile, though I have no personal experience with them. I've also heard that using shrink tubing and omitting the set screws that hold the pins in the coupling helps with durability as no pressure is being placed on the pin at the center thus causing a stress point. Again, I don't have any personal experience with this, just what I've heard and read.
It is all in how you build them. When I first got them I broke 3 silver pins in a week so I adjusted the way I build them and have not broken a silver or blue pin since. I use the setscrews and the trick is to tighten them just until you feel the SLIGHTEST resistance from the setscrew coming in contact with the pin and then stop. Grease the ECS's with the black Hudy grease that comes with the kit and wrap them with heatshrink tubing and your good to go. I've had the same pins in since last April.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:43 AM
  #1069  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I bent the *#$! out of a $400 ECS, but the pins are fine.
Stop hittin' S@#! (or other cars)
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:54 AM
  #1070  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I bent the *#$! out of a $400 ECS, but the pins are fine.
LOL .. that Hong Kong shipping must have cost you $350.

Your the first one at the track that I've seen do that. I'm wondering if the Aluminum Outdrives + 52mm shafts + the amount of camber you run could have caused some serious binding during an impact and the only thing that could dissapate the force was the bending of the shaft.

I've hit enough stuff to say that the Spring Steel Shafts are pretty durable.
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ByteStream
LOL .. that Hong Kong shipping must have cost you $350.

Your the first one at the track that I've seen do that. I'm wondering if the Aluminum Outdrives + 52mm shafts + the amount of camber you run could have caused some serious binding during an impact and the only thing that could dissapate the force was the bending of the shaft.

I've hit enough stuff to say that the Spring Steel Shafts are pretty durable.
No idea, I was running the plastic outdrives at the time. Even the outdrive survived.


Someone remind me, what do shorter bones do vs long ones again?
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:23 PM
  #1072  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Stop hittin' S@#! (or other cars)
Apparently untucking your body at full speed is frowned upon in this establishment!
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
No idea, I was running the plastic outdrives at the time. Even the outdrive survived.


Someone remind me, what do shorter bones do vs long ones again?
Quicker reaction...
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:35 PM
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Maybe my ECS had too much stiction? I bet that was it.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:02 PM
  #1075  
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Originally Posted by ByteStream
It is all in how you build them. When I first got them I broke 3 silver pins in a week so I adjusted the way I build them and have not broken a silver or blue pin since. I use the setscrews and the trick is to tighten them just until you feel the SLIGHTEST resistance from the setscrew coming in contact with the pin and then stop. Grease the ECS's with the black Hudy grease that comes with the kit and wrap them with heatshrink tubing and your good to go. I've had the same pins in since last April.
This... I also periodically peel off the shrink wrap, clean the joints with motor spray, re-grease, and re-shrink wrap. Running the same ECS/pins for about a year now.

I also assembled them with the blue Loctite stick (paste) on the setscrews.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:14 PM
  #1076  
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Having issues with with snapping the rear belt, I've gone through 3 belts in a short amount of time which is unusual. Ive got the tightness on the centre bottom notch as per kitt and have also tried 1 notch looser, belt still snapping. Any one else having this issue and what can I do to prevent snapping them. Running mod on asphalt. Kit setup.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:24 PM
  #1077  
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Originally Posted by Cristian Silva
Having issues with with snapping the rear belt, I've gone through 3 belts in a short amount of time which is unusual. Ive got the tightness on the centre bottom notch as per kitt and have also tried 1 notch looser, belt still snapping. Any one else having this issue and what can I do to prevent snapping them. Running mod on asphalt. Kit setup.
I haven't driven my car yet, but the rear belt feels extremely tight if in initial middle position, as the manual suggests. I put it a few positions softer in the moment
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
I haven't driven my car yet, but the rear belt feels extremely tight if in initial middle position, as the manual suggests
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
I haven't driven my car yet, but the rear belt feels extremely tight if in initial middle position, as the manual suggests. I put it a few positions softer in the moment
The rear belt is way too tight for stock or super stock racing as the kit describes it. I am running mine much looser to really let the car rotate.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Maybe my ECS had too much stiction? I bet that was it.
Never Deviate from the Manual or you will pay the price...If it says Hudy Graphite grease you listen damit... All Deviators will be eaten!
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