pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Thanks, I haven't tried softer springs but, it's likely my next step if the problem still exists on race night when the grip comes up.

angelblade

I picked mine up on Tuesday so they should have started flowing in. Just opened the box last night, can't wait to start building her.

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

Does anyone use these

305137 - Optional Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapter - HUDY Spring Steel

305136 - T2'008 Optional Alu Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters (2) - Hard-Coated

mikel33

iTrader: (2)

I copied this from a thread on traction rolling. This always works for me.

Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
I couldn't disagree more. Softening up suspension delays the maximum cornering load, thus delaying the traction roll. I won't bore everyone with a rehash of the Type-R thread, but my traction rolling issue is well documented over there and the things we did to cure it worked quite well.

Your suggestion to stiffen the suspension assumes that the tire's traction can be breached at some point during the corner. However, B18C Turbo lives in New England, land of spec rubber tire touring cars on CRC carpet and odorless traction compounds. The bite there is literally sticky, and breaching that is next to impossible.


Letting the car roll is also key to preventing the outside tires from reaching maximum loading, so adding roll stiffness is completely backwards.

Guys, consider this. What does a touring car do in the moment right before it traction rolls? It bicycles. That two wheeled circus stunt places the entire weight of the car on the two outside tires. With weight comes traction. That traction spike flips the car over. Doing anything that reduces droop, constricts suspension movement, or otherwise quickens tire loading is counterproductive.

Some of the more important things I did to cure my traction roll (and win) on carpet with rubber tires:
-lay the shocks down
-reduce camber
-reduce roll stiffness (springs and swaybars)
-adjust dampening to delay maximum loading (in my case, I had to increase front dampening to get through the sweeper without traction rolling, used a ton of rebound to improve transitional response)
-lower roll centers
-reduce caster (Paulie's trick)
-add droop to all four corners (thanks Fairtrace)

morgoth

It makes the car more forgiving and it's easier to drive. I'd say that it's worth trying it. Try the short links all around and also short front and mid rear.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for all your input. Raced 6 qualies and 2 mains without a single traction roll tonight. Rubber side down is good! If anyone wants to know, heres what I changed:

- 463 CST front shocks / 3.0 springs
- 425 CST rear shocks / 2.6 springs
- +75 front wheel hexes
- lower roll center / +1mm inner front camber links
- -10% steering expo
- laid the front shocks down one hole from kit setup

Quietman

Seen it on the setup sheets but only says standard and 1 any idea but points to the diff was told on the xray forum it was the use of the excentric diff holders but dont seen right as car comes with them?????
Thanks

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

The 1 excentrics are a option part that can either raise or lower your diff 1mm from what the stock items locate the diff at. The 1's don't come with the stock kit.

morgoth

Hey Guys,

Just bought a 10.5T. Does anyone know a good starting ratio for boosted indoors?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Really depends on the size of the track and the motor. I would start around 7.0-7.5 if you already have a lot of timing / ramp in the esc. Run about 2 min check temp, then check temp every 2 min after that for 5 min. For reference non boosted 10.5 is 5.5 starting ratio.

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

Jonny is correct. The standard set that comes with the kit, is eccentric, and gives you .5mm of offset. Either put the nib that locates the bearing holder up or down to get .5mm up or down of diff offset, for a total of 1mm of movement. It is why the belt tension adjustment notches are on both the bottom bulkhead piece as well as the top piece that the shock towers mount to. Make sure the nib points the same direction on both sides. They make an optional set that gives you 1mm of offset up or down, for a total of 2mm of movement. Part #302077

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

What CVD that fits this car is least likely to bend? Any brand.

orci77

Hudy Spring Steel.
You normally need a very heavy crash to bend them.

morgoth

I forgot to say that the track is about 30m*14m. Thanks for your input!

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Haven't seen any CVD in any car stronger than Hudy Spring Steel.