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Xray T3 2012

Old 12-05-2011, 07:48 AM
  #841  
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
That servo saver is nasty. My fingers hurt.

Instead of building it as per manual on the small bit w/ the spline adapter, try building it onto the big bit where the ball end holes are. Much easier.
For me, it was easy to build the servo saver. Assemble the front and back halves, then push the "spring" parts up from the bottom, smallest to largest. They "snap" into place. Takes about 15 seconds to assemble that way.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:29 AM
  #842  
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
For me, it was easy to build the servo saver. Assemble the front and back halves, then push the "spring" parts up from the bottom, smallest to largest. They "snap" into place. Takes about 15 seconds to assemble that way.
Yep, very easy with this method.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:22 AM
  #843  
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This car is good.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:59 AM
  #844  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Using any shim between the shock and tower in the front will reduce initial steering and generate more on-power steering. We normally only use the shim at the top and it also serves to make the shock as vertical as possible.
Tried the 2mm shims on tower and arm and it makes the car so drivable. Moves from "agressive and hard to handle" to "total control". Especially the better on-power-steering gives more convidence.

What I dont get: Why does this happen because of the shims?
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:40 PM
  #845  
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
Tried the 2mm shims on tower and arm and it makes the car so drivable. Moves from "agressive and hard to handle" to "total control". Especially the better on-power-steering gives more convidence.

What I dont get: Why does this happen because of the shims?
Is the shim on the A arm really needed? I thought I read somewhere that a shim between the shock and the tower was enough.

I have an other question regarding the Ackerman. Does adding shims smooths out the steering and make the car steer a little less?
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:47 PM
  #846  
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
Tried the 2mm shims on tower and arm and it makes the car so drivable. Moves from "agressive and hard to handle" to "total control". Especially the better on-power-steering gives more convidence.

What I dont get: Why does this happen because of the shims?
When you lay down the shocks on the shock tower your changing the lateral angle of the shock, When you add shims to the shock tower your changing the longitudinal angle of the shock. So it also changes the spring and damping rates slightly.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:04 PM
  #847  
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Is the shim on the A arm really needed? I thought I read somewhere that a shim between the shock and the tower was enough.

I have an other question regarding the Ackerman. Does adding shims smooths out the steering and make the car steer a little less?
No on both I believe, shocks are more upright when shimmed at the top, shim on the a arm stops this, although if you were to have say 3mm at the top and 1mm at the bottom, you will be making the car even easier to drive as you are increasing the distance the front and rear shocks are away from each other.

Regarding Ackerman, I believe it's increased if you reduce shims, this in turn smoothing out the steering.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:14 PM
  #848  
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
No on both I believe, shocks are more upright when shimmed at the top, shim on the a arm stops this, although if you were to have say 3mm at the top and 1mm at the bottom, you will be making the car even easier to drive as you are increasing the distance the front and rear shocks are away from each other.

Regarding Ackerman, I believe it's increased if you reduce shims, this in turn smoothing out the steering.
So I can add 1 or 2mm at the top, don't change the bottom and enjoy smoother steering?
I know that the more shims you add, the less ackerman effect you'll get. But I've actually never tested with this.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:33 PM
  #849  
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Is the shim on the A arm really needed? I thought I read somewhere that a shim between the shock and the tower was enough.

I have an other question regarding the Ackerman. Does adding shims smooths out the steering and make the car steer a little less?
Just between the top of the shock and the tower is what you want.

Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
So I can add 1 or 2mm at the top, don't change the bottom and enjoy smoother steering?
I know that the more shims you add, the less ackerman effect you'll get. But I've actually never tested with this.
Yep.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:43 PM
  #850  
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Okay guys anyone have experience on 2012, after 2 days of races the rear toe change without changing the shims, here is the scenario, with the stock asphalt set up the rear toe are -3 deg both left and right , After 2 weekend of race now the rear toe are left -1.5 and right -2.5, I did check the long screws all four are straight, hinge pins both left and right are also straight.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:35 PM
  #851  
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Okay guys anyone have experience on 2012, after 2 days of races the rear toe change without changing the shims, here is the scenario, with the stock asphalt set up the rear toe are -3 deg both left and right , After 2 weekend of race now the rear toe are left -1.5 and right -2.5, I did check the long screws all four are straight, hinge pins both left and right are also straight.
Are you sure you had 3 degrees both sides to start with? Both mr cars have more toe on the right than the left, although it is only about 0.5 degrees different. I tried shimming them to make them the same but didn't notice any handling difference.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Are you sure you had 3 degrees both sides to start with? Both mr cars have more toe on the right than the left, although it is only about 0.5 degrees different. I tried shimming them to make them the same but didn't notice any handling difference.
Actually it is less than -3 deg both left and right, but my concern now is after 2 weekend the left is -1.5 and right is -2.5 degree, so you saying i have to put extra 1mm shimm on rear left to make to 2.5, are everyone doing this ?
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Actually it is less than -3 deg both left and right, but my concern now is after 2 weekend the left is -1.5 and right is -2.5 degree, so you saying i have to put extra 1mm shimm on rear left to make to 2.5, are everyone doing this ?
Did you break a rear hub and put on a 1 degree hub on one side?
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:03 PM
  #854  
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Did you break a rear hub and put on a 1 degree hub on one side?
I dont break anything on the car, im still using the 0 deg that comes with the kit
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:09 PM
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I already put 1mm shimm on the left rear to make it 2.5 deg but it look ugly
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