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Xray T3 2012

Old 11-29-2011, 06:58 PM
  #766  
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn
I have almost no side to side play with the battery, just front to back.

the xray alum battery holders dont bend like the composite, and then you can just add some foam servo tape between the holder and lipo to eliminate the play front to back.
the aluminum lipo holders are dialed, I suggest a lil piece of fuel tubing on the ends of them if you have "east/west" play at all, I have no "north/south" play with the aluminum lipo pieces..

DIALED!
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2012-imag0094.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by zaraz
anyone
according to the manual, yes, you might need to add spacers for certain Lipos
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by zaraz
for the front do you use 50 or 52 mm ecs units, about to order the shafts so just want to make sure
either. I'm running the 52s. you can run the 50s, but add a 1mm spacer between the adapter and the axel. running the 50s can cause the adapter to break because the ecs pin is not sitting far enough in the adapter. I went thru countless adapters until i read about this mod of the 1mm spacer, OR you can run the alum adapters and not worry about the plastic adapter breaking
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:26 PM
  #769  
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Originally Posted by ghoppa
the aluminum lipo holders are dialed, I suggest a lil piece of fuel tubing on the ends of them if you have "east/west" play at all, I have no "north/south" play with the aluminum lipo pieces..

DIALED!
Nice I like that
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigz84
either. I'm running the 52s. you can run the 50s, but add a 1mm spacer between the adapter and the axel. running the 50s can cause the adapter to break because the ecs pin is not sitting far enough in the adapter. I went thru countless adapters until i read about this mod of the 1mm spacer, OR you can run the alum adapters and not worry about the plastic adapter breaking
or you can just buy some serious outdrives instead -- Side Piece Racing Nikita Outdrives



http://sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec
or you can just buy some serious outdrives instead -- Side Piece Racing Nikita Outdrives



http://sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/
huh, nice.....
never seen or heard of these before....
look good, if i go back to a spool, i might look into these
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:38 PM
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I just got a set of nikita outdrives. Running fairly narrow, 1.5 spacers, 52mm ESC drive shafts and still have room in the outdrives to go narrower.

Also the large diameter is less wear and tear on the blades, have two races days on mine and the blades still look new.

Definitely a high quality product.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:12 PM
  #773  
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what is the pinion range people are using for indoor carpet with the stock 84/48 spur and 17.5 blinky. Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT
Ive been running the kit 750 cst oil so far. Im racing 13.5 on carpet at the moment. Im wondering what every one else is using. So far the car has been hard to drive consistantly.
I started with the 700cst too. My friend runs 1000cst and last weekend I tried 2000cst. Works also but I must admit I didnt feel the difference because we were on a different track.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn

the xray alum battery holders dont bend like the composite, and then you can just add some foam servo tape between the holder and lipo to eliminate the play front to back.
Jeez, how hard are you crashing I've done thousands of laps, had quite a few heavy hits, only ever broken or bent one thing on the Xray (rear hub carrier and that was only because a track fixing had come loose and caught the rear axle nut) never had a problem with the batteries moving or retainers bending.


Perhaps you guys need some better quailty tape?

Bb
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:04 AM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by orci77
I started with the 700cst too. My friend runs 1000cst and last weekend I tried 2000cst. Works also but I must admit I didnt feel the difference because we were on a different track.
I run 1000 or 2000 depending on track conditions, lighter makes the back end rotate faster, heavier calms it down.

BUT unless you put exactly the same amount of oil in the diff you may not notice any difference (too much thin oil make it feel thick, too little thick oil makes it feel thin)

Bb
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the picture of the fuel tubing on the battery brackets. That along with larger nylon nuts took all the battery movement out of the car.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bucketboy

BUT unless you put exactly the same amount of oil in the diff you may not notice any difference (too much thin oil make it feel thick, too little thick oil makes it feel thin)

Bb
+1
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:58 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
I thought I read a short while ago that the Corally motor wasn't made to the same specs as other 17.5 motors? I know it's not on the ROAR approved list. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.



What up Warren, good man and you?
Iam doing great love the car cant wait to race it again.
talk to you soon
warren
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigz84
either. I'm running the 52s. you can run the 50s, but add a 1mm spacer between the adapter and the axel. running the 50s can cause the adapter to break because the ecs pin is not sitting far enough in the adapter. I went thru countless adapters until i read about this mod of the 1mm spacer, OR you can run the alum adapters and not worry about the plastic adapter breaking
These are another option...



flyingfoxrc.com
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