jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

I would do the 52mm and add some shims to widen the front end.

bucketboy

Are any of you guys are having an issue of the little protrusion on the chassis that holds the servo post digging in? If so cut it off and while your at it, radius that area on the chassis a little more (battery side too) then hold the sevo in with tape ..........loads better

Bb

Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

Is this actually an issue, with it scraping, or whatever. I guess it may stop me buying a 12 and definately stop me buying a new chassis for my 11.

Mb3195

Yeah, you do get serious build up on the new servo post "bit". The actual chassis does generate more grip though as it is miles more flexible than the old one.

You could do like I've done, and get the '11 dremelled the same as the '12, will save you £70!!

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I posted before that Yokomo used to have that "nub" on the BD chassis and we all cut it off. On the newer BD5W-X-I chassis (Ronald Volker's car) the chassis is designed for inner servo hard mount only with servo tape or shoo goo under the servo. It worked fine on the Yoke, should work on the T3/12 is guess. JMO

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

The chassis is going to scrape anyways, especially right near the motor on our track, so I don't see the sense in cutting the nub off.

Creativeindy

iTrader: (2)

Mine arrived yesterday and I am eagerly awaiting to put it together after I finish a FT build and a backup TT-01 build for this weekend.

Anything I should come to expect or look out for when building this? Sometimes instructions can be off or not exact. Any recommendations for ESC combo's that seem to compliment this rig? I had planned to toss in a MMP setup, or possibly a Novak Kinetic 2S system, was waiting to see what the consensus had agreed was a good match.


The reviews on the rig have been good and I am pretty excited to get it on the local track to give it a spin.

locked

iTrader: (1)

The nub is the only place I noticed any rubbing on the bottom of the chassis, but it didn't seem to be too bad and I didn't notice any odd handling on the hard right turn at the end of the straight where I suspect most of the rubbing occurred. So far I'm loving this car, with very few changes from kit setup.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

The only tip for the build is on the servo saver. The manual shows you putting the metal springs on the one plastic piece and then joining the two plastic pieces together. It won't work that way.

First, join the 2 plastic pieces, and then snap all the metal rings on from the bottom. It will make sense when you get to the step.

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

Is there any special way to put on the front and rear arms so they don't bind ?

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

See the attached, this is from the XRAY forum, specifically: XRAY Tips

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

it went together just fine for me...? both ways will work, you just gotta be careful when centering them.

i noticed in this kit they bound after attaching them to the bulkheads too, the 2011 didnt. I just pushed the arm towards the screw i was tightening, and after i was done they were free again - not sure if this was the right way to go about it, but it definitely felt better.

im going to cut mine off soon. it cant be a good idea to have something consistently rubbing that far off the chassis line.

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

Thanks Fred. This is my First Xray switched over from a Tamiya.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome I think you will be pleasantly surprised

Davin

iTrader: (43)

Anyone have a good recommendation on where to start for a gear ratio. 17.5 stock No Boost? Ive been running boost for years but rules just changed to blinky only. (Due to the recommendation of some guy who doesn't even race at our track mind you) So now I have to start over looking for that sweet spot again.