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Xray T3 2012

Old 01-28-2013, 10:51 PM
  #3991  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
Thank you for you reply I really on the edge of retiring this car to my UGT car now I race T2 007 that works real well on low power and is almost as fast as my T3 17.5.
Our track may have one hairpin the rest of the track is combo sweepers that flow from corner to corner so if you are wide in one corner you are slow in the next. The track is all about car positioning I 'm a pretty good driver and drive the as fast as it will go on the correct line. Once again thanks for the suggestions. My friend and I are the only one's driving xray's in a sea of T6 cars we both have won races but it is when the competition makes a mistake not with speed we don;t set fast lap time of the day really have to drive with no margin for error where the competition can make mistakes in traffic and still kill us.
Dont give up on that 2011 quite yet. It still is a promising car and I still like kicking some TC6 ass! I will be there soon. Maybe if the weather holds up I will be down. Norcal has indoor offroad feaver right now and onroad track is in not kept up at the moment. The only thing that confuses me about your guys track is the white lines painted right in the middle of the main driving track. They could of just put hoses or 2x4's to direct which way they wanted you to go. ????
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:13 AM
  #3992  
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
What shims/spacers do you have on the front and rear upper camber links? What holes are the camber links in?

JG
I run short links on the rear and medium links on the front. Our tracks grip is usually low at start of racing so I run no shims. Then shim as required as the grip comes up. The most I have run is 2 mm front and 1mm rear.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:26 AM
  #3993  
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[QUOTE=Josh-n-ya;1174325 The only thing that confuses me about your guys track is the white lines painted right in the middle of the main driving track. They could of just put hoses or 2x4's to direct which way they wanted you to go. ????[/QUOTE] v. . V. I look forward to you coming down and racing with us! The White lines are plastic rain gutter we use to divide the lanes of travel, The guys at HT had me design a track that can be changed every race so far we have raced 15 for so different tracks. Some tracks are better then others but so far it has worked out well! I keep track of the date laps and the fun level of the track!
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:55 AM
  #3994  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
v. . V. I look forward to you coming down and racing with us! The White lines are plastic rain gutter we use to divide the lanes of travel, The guys at HT had me design a track that can be changed every race so far we have raced 15 for so different tracks. Some tracks are better then others but so far it has worked out well! I keep track of the date laps and the fun level of the track!
Not the rain gutters. The white lines you are driving over! Sorry about the confusion.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Not the rain gutters. The white lines you are driving over! Sorry about the confusion.
I was the one not getting it! When I first painted the track I didn't have a lane running thru the middle of the carosel so as a after thought I decided to put a lane through middle before I painted the blue and just left those lines! You don't even notice them when you are racing that is why I didn't get what you were asking!
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:36 PM
  #3996  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
I was the one not getting it! When I first painted the track I didn't have a lane running thru the middle of the carosel so as a after thought I decided to put a lane through middle before I painted the blue and just left those lines! You don't even notice them when you are racing that is why I didn't get what you were asking!
Ok! No problem. Still cant wait to race there this summer!
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:43 PM
  #3997  
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Does anybody know if all the parts from an 2011 chassis fit right onto a 2012 chassis, top plate and all! Just thinking on having servo in a differant position to try. thx Oh and would drilling a small hole in the bottom of chassis to get to grub screw on pinion really tweak the car all that much?
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:11 PM
  #3998  
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Josh I have a east west servo mount on my T3 11 I used a CSO servo mount (Mushroom RC). I used a exiseting hole and only had to drill and countersink one additional hole. I have done this to 2 different cars my T2 07. A couple of other racers here locally has used the same servo mount to great effect on there TC6.1.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MrRolla View Post
I run short links on the rear and medium links on the front. Our tracks grip is usually low at start of racing so I run no shims. Then shim as required as the grip comes up. The most I have run is 2 mm front and 1mm rear.
Is that 1mm and 2mm adjustments on the inside or outside of the camber links? Where do you run your diff and suspension pin roll centers at when you 1st hit the track when traction is lowest?
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:50 AM
  #4000  
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Hi,

Does anyone use 92T/64P spur gears?

Is there any problem accessing motor screws or similar with them?

I'm planning to use a 92T gear with 35-38T pinions, but I'm not sure if this combination will fit properly into the car.

Thanks.

Best regards.

Last edited by BeLiPoWa; 01-30-2013 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:07 PM
  #4001  
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I have run the 92t and 96t in my '12. Unless you have a ball ended driver you'll have to lift the spur assembly to access the rear screw. I will snug the rear screw a little and set my mesh, tighten the front screw, then lift the spur and do the rear one. What I've started doing lately is putting the biggest spur gear that I can in the car according to what pinion I'm planning to use, which puts a little weight towards the front of the car. You can go up to a 54t pinion with a 100t spur. If you change gearing alot I'd look into going with at least a 100t and use a ball ended driver.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:51 PM
  #4002  
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Hey guys,

I've been running a T3 '12 for about 5-6 races. Bought it used from a local Xray team driver and the car was pretty dialed when I got it. I've made a few small tweaks and wow this car has gotten so good. It has insane corner speeds and just handles like a dream. Better than any car I've ever driver. The only issue I have is that the chassis is rubbing on the track in the turns. Thats not so much an issue to me as when I turn to the right the motor drags causing the car to lose the back end once in a while. It doesn't whip around on me but it does noticeably slide. I've tried ride heights up to 5.8mm all around. It has a thinner chassis than stock and I'm running pretty light oil compared to other TC I've run. What things can I try without drastically changing the handling?
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:15 PM
  #4003  
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Hey guys,

I've been running a T3 '12 for about 5-6 races. Bought it used from a local Xray team driver and the car was pretty dialed when I got it. I've made a few small tweaks and wow this car has gotten so good. It has insane corner speeds and just handles like a dream. Better than any car I've ever driver. The only issue I have is that the chassis is rubbing on the track in the turns. Thats not so much an issue to me as when I turn to the right the motor drags causing the car to lose the back end once in a while. It doesn't whip around on me but it does noticeably slide. I've tried ride heights up to 5.8mm all around. It has a thinner chassis than stock and I'm running pretty light oil compared to other TC I've run. What things can I try without drastically changing the handling?
Odin, do you have the nub on the chassis for the east west servo if you do I recommend Adapting a CSO or Xray T4 floating servo mount and grinding the nub off! The nub causes the chassis to hit in the corner.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:03 PM
  #4004  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
Odin, do you have the nub on the chassis for the east west servo if you do I recommend Adapting a CSO or Xray T4 floating servo mount and grinding the nub off! The nub causes the chassis to hit in the corner.
No, Mine does the same thing, and I have cut the servo nub off. It rubs on the side closer to the back, right under the motor. I think stiffening the shock oil and springs helps a bit, but you lose grip. If anyone has a solution I would like to know too
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:13 PM
  #4005  
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
No, Mine does the same thing, and I have cut the servo nub off. It rubs on the side closer to the back, right under the motor. I think stiffening the shock oil and springs helps a bit, but you lose grip. If anyone has a solution I would like to know too
Just curious have you got the car ballanced? It sounds like you have more weight to the motor side. I have to add weight to the battery side to get ballanced. Ballancing buttons are a great little tool Besides that you may have a tweaked chassis!
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