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Xray T3 2012

Old 12-11-2012, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Losiho View Post
I ran my T3 for the first time on the weekend and would like some help and advice. I used the stock asphalt setting recommended in the kit, with the following differences -

Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear

I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.

The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.

I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.

I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.

And suggestions would be appreciated.
I would suggest thicker oil, maybe around 40-45 all around, especially in that heat. That should stop the car from dumping so quickly to the rear and causing it to get loose. Beyond that, maybe removing a bump steer shim, should calm the car down a bit.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:21 PM
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Thanks erchn.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:20 PM
  #3948  
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I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
Try changeing your suspention parts from left to right (put the left hand parts on the right side and right side to left) and check toe again, you may have a bent part
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:30 PM
  #3950  
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
Change out the rear upright on the 2deg side. The rear uprights can twist and although they appear perfect it is enought to really upset the car.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for the input from both of you. I did switch around and some how ended up getting 2.5 per side when I switched so went that since they were the same and tested tonight. Car ran very well that way. Went from 11.16 pb to 11.03. I got a pair of the pivot pins and an arm I was going to switch out but will probably just get 2 new uprights to change next time I go.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:58 AM
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I would love a set of lowered shock towers so I can use the new t4 shocks on my 2012...Anyone have this in the works?
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:28 PM
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Hi would anyone have part # for t3 gear diff gasket.Thanks
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:40 PM
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XRA304990
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:32 AM
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Hey guys. I just picked up a T3'12 used and had a quick question. It seems to be missing a part (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Holder-Black). Are people running without this? It is in the manual. But I was told nothing goes there by the seller. Never seen any touring car without it. I was wanting to run this car this weekend but I'm afraid to run without this piece and end up bending the motor mount.
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:55 AM
  #3956  
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Default motor mount--- missing front

Odin,
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.

I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.

At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.

I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.

regards,
Darrald
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by drsfly View Post
Odin,
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.

I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.

At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.

I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.

regards,
Darrald
Thats what I was thinking. That it was run without because of flex. I bought the car from a local Xray team driver. He is very good. And normally if he says do something to my car, I do it haha. Just wasn't sure with this piece since as I said I've always seen it on every TC I've had. My only concern was with posibbly bending the motor mount because of my driving skills not being what the previous owners skills are

I think I will go ahead and run it this weekend then without it and get it ordered and try it the following weekend with it in place and see if I notice a difference.

Thanks for the response. It's much appreciated.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:16 PM
  #3958  
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I ran my T3'12 in VTA and knocked my best lap time down by 0.9sec ( run a T3'07 usually in VTA ). Large track, med/high bite, this worked for me;

2.8/2.6 springs
35w oil all 4
1.5*f / 2*r camber
#2 link hole front w/4mm shim out and 1mm in
#2 link hole rear w/1mm shim out and 1mm in
0* front toe
2* rear toe
50mm ECS shafts front
52mm rears
top shock hole #3 f&r
5mm ride height f&r
6mm front droop
5mm rear droop
medium flex settings top and bottom
f&r diffs up position

Setup worked for me with my driving style
how did your car react w/ the 50mm ecs in the front? What change were you looking for?

I just purchased the 50mm to tune w/

also thinking of putting 50 in the rear.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:57 AM
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I race at Thunder R/C, home of the Southern USVTA Nationals. Its a large flowing track with med/high bite on 1st run and gets better with every run after. I run 52mm's on my VTA car normally. The ECS 50mm's made it seem to me to get thru the switchbacks more smoothly, but comparing a T2'07 and a T3'12, they are 2 totally different feeling cars. The'12 seemed to enter the corners more agressivly, but much smoother than the '07 ever had with 52mm's.

As I said, I only ran my '12 in VTA once, just to see how much difference it was between the two. It prompted me to pull some strings and I get to order a T4'13 tomorrow evening.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:10 AM
  #3960  
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Hey Guys

I know I'm late to the party here... but I have a 1st-gen T3 that is giving me full satisfaction and that can still hang with the faster chassis out there, or almost can. The car I don't think is the main issue, driver skills are Anyways, I'm thinking about going more modern, or at least partially. Are there any aftermarket companies that make a conversion for the T3 (2010!) that allow it to run a "full" (but thin) chassis? I'm not necessarily chasing an option that uses dual bellcranks, but why not...

I tried exotek but their optional chassis only are compatible for T3'11 and beyond...

thanks for any info.
cheers
Paul
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