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Xray T3 2012

Old 09-15-2012, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
I've searched and read through this forum, and I don't think I'm any the wiser... I've just ordered a Gear Diff for the rear of my T3'11, and I'm also going to try one in the front as well. Most of the setup sheets people have posted are using 750-1000 cst in the rear (most with a spool up front). Then I see a few recommendations of 300,000 - 500,000 up front. That's a big difference! I have a bottle of Xray 100,000 that I usd in a different car, other than that, 'other name' brands 40wt, 80wt, 100wt, etc.

I see Xray have the full range from 100cst to 300,000cst:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...17&catName=New XRAY Premium Silicone Oils

I'm probably only really a local mid pack runner so want the car to be easy to drive. Should I stick with Xray 'cst' oils rather than other 'wts' What's a good starting point front and rear? Thanks for any help.
I only like gum in the front.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:32 AM
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Default Spool or diff on asphalt

What is the difference betweeen running a front spool or a diff on asphalt? I race on a good size flowing asphalt track I want to know is there an advantage in running a diff in that situation.
I am getting beat in the corners where I can't keep the speed up in corners, it has me a couple a tenth's off a lap. Maybe the car would be a little more forgiving to drive?
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
What is the difference betweeen running a front spool or a diff on asphalt? I race on a good size flowing asphalt track I want to know is there an advantage in running a diff in that situation.
I am getting beat in the corners where I can't keep the speed up in corners, it has me a couple a tenth's off a lap. Maybe the car would be a little more forgiving to drive?
Only one way to find out.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
I think it's a hinge pin strength issue then, but I would rather replace a hinge pin than a arm. Honestly if a few people like the cheaper route, over, easier to adjust, less parts count, more accurate rear toe, then Xray could offer both. That would offer something no other company does. You know what I want, lol, but it's a option. The toe block could be made to accept both. I think Xray should do a poll to see what customers prefer.
Did you register your car?

Do you frequent Xray forums?

If you answer yes you can participate in polls for things people want to see on the new cars. It was pretty cool the winning vote usually makes it on the car.
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Old 09-15-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
I think it's a hinge pin strength issue then, but I would rather replace a hinge pin than a arm. Honestly if a few people like the cheaper route, over, easier to adjust, less parts count, more accurate rear toe, then Xray could offer both. That would offer something no other company does. You know what I want, lol, but it's a option. The toe block could be made to accept both. I think Xray should do a poll to see what customers prefer.
If it a poll then my vote goes with the current Xray set up! There are a few alteration I would make but the pin holders are not one of them.

Yes, if is a bit of a faff adjusting them and yes getting equal toe can be a chore but after bending countless hingepins (inc titanium) on other cars I really like the strength and durability of the Xray, IMO it is the best club car currently available and its not too bad at national and iternational level either

Bb
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:30 PM
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Looking at the 2mm chassis and saw this which just makes no sense at all. see below

NOTE: When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.



if everythig is mounted to top side of the chassis and you set ride height from the bottom the .5 is missing from the bottom of the chassis and roll center is the same no?
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
Looking at the 2mm chassis and saw this which just makes no sense at all. see below

NOTE: When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.



if everythig is mounted to top side of the chassis and you set ride height from the bottom the .5 is missing from the bottom of the chassis and roll center is the same no?
Lets say you are setting your ride height at 5mm on the 2.5 mm chassis from the bottom. Thats 7.5 mm till you get the metal components.

If you set the 2.0mm chassis at 5mm ride height thats 7.0mm till you get the same components. so .5mm shims are needed to keep the same roll center.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
Lets say you are setting your ride height at 5mm on the 2.5 mm chassis from the bottom. Thats 7.5 mm till you get the metal components.

If you set the 2.0mm chassis at 5mm ride height thats 7.0mm till you get the same components. so .5mm shims are needed to keep the same roll center.
Thought about it after I posted and you are correct. Would the .5 missing not give the car more over all traction?
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
Thought about it after I posted and you are correct. Would the .5 missing not give the car more over all traction?
It depends what you need.

Correct me if I am wrong (seriously).
When I think center of gravity the lower you go the more stable things should be. But technically wouldn't that make your suspension work less and cause slower cornering speeds?

Same reverse concept but the higher the COG the easier it is to transfer weight. Although it will make the car easier to roll over or go three wheeling. Wouldn't you want to find that distance between? I am I not correct in saying you need to find that perfect point where the weight can transfer easily?
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:18 PM
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this stuff always effs my head up lol. lower roll center means more roll so I guess I will just try it both ways. Actually thinking that the high roll center pivots at .75 more may be the way to go with this chassis.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:02 PM
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It's not just the roll centre's and the height of components, as you've changed the chassis you have also adjusted the cars flex (by going thinner) so you may want to keep everything at it's original height as you're already trying to gain grip with the thinner chassis.

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Old 09-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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T3 2012 for sale pm me
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
It's not just the roll centre's and the height of components, as you've changed the chassis you have also adjusted the cars flex (by going thinner) so you may want to keep everything at it's original height as you're already trying to gain grip with the thinner chassis.

Skiddins
yep thats why I am thinking adding the .25 may loosen her up a bit but I will try it all.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:03 PM
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Any development news out there?
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:40 PM
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Any spy pics of the 13 car?
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