Originally Posted by Sith Lord

I've searched and read through this forum, and I don't think I'm any the wiser... I've just ordered a Gear Diff for the rear of my T3'11, and I'm also going to try one in the front as well. Most of the setup sheets people have posted are using 750-1000 cst in the rear (most with a spool up front). Then I see a few recommendations of 300,000 - 500,000 up front. That's a big difference! I have a bottle of Xray 100,000 that I usd in a different car, other than that, 'other name' brands 40wt, 80wt, 100wt, etc.

I see Xray have the full range from 100cst to 300,000cst:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...17&catName=New XRAY Premium Silicone Oils

I'm probably only really a local mid pack runner so want the car to be easy to drive. Should I stick with Xray 'cst' oils rather than other 'wts' What's a good starting point front and rear? Thanks for any help.

Originally Posted by vivo quevas

What is the difference betweeen running a front spool or a diff on asphalt? I race on a good size flowing asphalt track I want to know is there an advantage in running a diff in that situation.
I am getting beat in the corners where I can't keep the speed up in corners, it has me a couple a tenth's off a lap. Maybe the car would be a little more forgiving to drive?

Originally Posted by RCknight

I think it's a hinge pin strength issue then, but I would rather replace a hinge pin than a arm. Honestly if a few people like the cheaper route, over, easier to adjust, less parts count, more accurate rear toe, then Xray could offer both. That would offer something no other company does. You know what I want, lol, but it's a option. The toe block could be made to accept both. I think Xray should do a poll to see what customers prefer.

Originally Posted by RCknight

I think it's a hinge pin strength issue then, but I would rather replace a hinge pin than a arm. Honestly if a few people like the cheaper route, over, easier to adjust, less parts count, more accurate rear toe, then Xray could offer both. That would offer something no other company does. You know what I want, lol, but it's a option. The toe block could be made to accept both. I think Xray should do a poll to see what customers prefer.

Originally Posted by Dusttt

Looking at the 2mm chassis and saw this which just makes no sense at all. see below

NOTE: When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.



if everythig is mounted to top side of the chassis and you set ride height from the bottom the .5 is missing from the bottom of the chassis and roll center is the same no?

Originally Posted by NolanP

Lets say you are setting your ride height at 5mm on the 2.5 mm chassis from the bottom. Thats 7.5 mm till you get the metal components.

If you set the 2.0mm chassis at 5mm ride height thats 7.0mm till you get the same components. so .5mm shims are needed to keep the same roll center.

Originally Posted by Dusttt

Thought about it after I posted and you are correct. Would the .5 missing not give the car more over all traction?

Originally Posted by Skiddins

It's not just the roll centre's and the height of components, as you've changed the chassis you have also adjusted the cars flex (by going thinner) so you may want to keep everything at it's original height as you're already trying to gain grip with the thinner chassis.

Skiddins