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Xray T3 2012

Old 08-15-2012, 02:33 PM
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+1 on arm reamer. And a lot of patience.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Have you tried the progressive springs in the rear? I don't have enough runs on them outdoors to say that I am going to stick with them, but they did seem to help rotation. Generally a stiffer car, both flex and sprung will transition better, but at a cost of something else.
I have not tried them... It is an idea....
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wwddww34 View Post
Here's some food for thought... I have 2 Xrays. One is a T3 '11 (with all the mods to 2012) and the other is an original T3 (2010). They both have spools in the front and gear diffs w/ 700 cst oil in the rear. I have set both of them up for 17.5 Non-Timing Sedan racing. Both cars had the same motor, ESC, receiver, and battery in them. Surprisingly I found that the T3 '11 feels lazier when going around corners than the original T3 does. Both cars have identical servos in them, Futaba S9551, so it's not a matter of servo speed. I'm beginning to wonder if the original (i.e. single post) steering mechanics makes the car feel quicker when going around corners.
Interesting...
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Try shortening your camber links. I run the middle hole in the front, and the short hole in the rear. The car is very responsive.
What will a heavier shock oil do? This is the one part the of setup I just can not seem to get into my head... Springs and Oil .....
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
The arm mounts (little plastic blocks) need to be fastened tight, but the arms should drop and move very freely. This step takes a while and may require an arm reamer to get perfect.
I did the fronts and the blocks are tight and the arms were reamed. The only difference was I lightly sanded all the plastic pieces that touch (mounts, spacers, arms) with some 1200 and they move like bearings are in them and have no front/back play. Gotta go back and do the rears that way now
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:57 PM
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I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
So I am building my car right now. I'm at the arm installation part now and have a question.

When you put the arms on, are you tightening them all the way then backing the screws out until the arm can fall under its own weight or how loose is loose enough?
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I did the fronts and the blocks are tight and the arms were reamed. The only difference was I lightly sanded all the plastic pieces that touch (mounts, spacers, arms) with some 1200 and they move like bearings are in them and have no front/back play. Gotta go back and do the rears that way now
The pivot pins should remain stationary, it's only the arms that should move around the pivot pins.
I also changed the plastic wheelbase spacers for alloy versions.
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
What droop, oil, front camber link, sway bar, which top deck, bumpsteer spacers, front diff type, lower pin height?
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
What will a heavier shock oil do? This is the one part the of setup I just can not seem to get into my head... Springs and Oil .....
Springs control 'how much' and oil controls 'how fast'

Thicker front oil and/or stiffer front spring will improve the steering reaction when entering a corner but will compromise mid corner etc.

What surface/tyres are you using?
It might be easier for us to post a setup that we might use in the same circumtances, especially as we don't know what you're using now.

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Old 08-15-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
What droop, oil, front camber link, sway bar, which top deck, bumpsteer spacers, front diff type, lower pin height?
Kit top deck
6mm front 5mm rear droop ORH
350 cst oil
1.5mm spacer under front outer camber link, inner camber link no spacers in the outer bulkhead
kit front swaybar, 1.1 mm rear sway bar
2mm bump steer spacers
spool front diff
kit lower pin roll center holders(middle dot)
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:50 PM
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This is the google map of the track, 120 foot straight in front of the drivers stand with fast 90 degree sweeper at the end. Car pushes into the grass at times. Traction is low-medium on the track at the moment

http://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=wyn...ueensland&z=20
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
I have been trying out the new 2mm chassis and the car definitely has more rear grip but has lost alot of steering in high speed corners.
I am running kit shocks/springs and the only other change is middle rear upper camber link location with 1mm spacer underneath. All screws in the top deck, 1 degree camber front, 1.5 degree rear. .5 degree toe out front, 3 degree rear
Any suggestions to get some steering back? Low speed steering is fine
Weird, I feel it gives it both more steering and rear grip. I have plenty of steering, I would go to 2 Deg toe out on the fr and also try a gear diff in the front, also low roll centres on the Fr Mid on the rear.


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Old 08-15-2012, 05:13 PM
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Thanks Nathan, What Oil are you running in the front diff? I tried 300 000 a while ago but found it squirmy under braking.
Are you using the .5mm spacers under the bulkheads? I am not using any spacers under the bulkheads btw.
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:32 PM
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As a rule of thumb, I always though a car that flexes more will feel lazy? Are people racing on carpet? My car always felt lazy without using the center chassis post behind the steering.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:14 PM
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Lazy would be a good explanation of the car with the 2mm chassis. It definitely has a lot more flex when holding it in your hands and twisting it. I was thinking the lazyness was due to the roll centers being .5mm lower due to the chassis being .5 mm thinner, but the flex is probably more the reason.
Would the Lower front roll center suspension holders make the car twitchy and loose on the rear though?
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