1LikesXray T3 2012
08-07-2012, 10:49 PM
#3421
springs
i am running asphalt setup as per std.
excepting 2.4 rear and one hole further in.
car was loose in rear with 2.6 but a lot better with 2.4 (i have got 2.2-2.6's coming)
anyone else find std setup loose.
only run 21.5 blinky so corner speed and smooth is what you have to be.
some of our mod and 17.5 boosted cars are not much quicker through twisty bits but bye bye on straights.
excepting 2.4 rear and one hole further in.
car was loose in rear with 2.6 but a lot better with 2.4 (i have got 2.2-2.6's coming)
anyone else find std setup loose.
only run 21.5 blinky so corner speed and smooth is what you have to be.
some of our mod and 17.5 boosted cars are not much quicker through twisty bits but bye bye on straights.
08-08-2012, 06:29 AM
#3422
i am running asphalt setup as per std.
excepting 2.4 rear and one hole further in.
car was loose in rear with 2.6 but a lot better with 2.4 (i have got 2.2-2.6's coming)
anyone else find std setup loose.
only run 21.5 blinky so corner speed and smooth is what you have to be.
some of our mod and 17.5 boosted cars are not much quicker through twisty bits but bye bye on straights.
excepting 2.4 rear and one hole further in.
car was loose in rear with 2.6 but a lot better with 2.4 (i have got 2.2-2.6's coming)
anyone else find std setup loose.
only run 21.5 blinky so corner speed and smooth is what you have to be.
some of our mod and 17.5 boosted cars are not much quicker through twisty bits but bye bye on straights.
08-08-2012, 08:35 PM
#3423
Ok thanks for the advise on the xray aluminum shocks they work great now.
The next question is shocks again. I have two cars and the second one I finnally got my tamiya set mounted up and they are pretty good. What oils/spring should I be running with these shocks?
The next question is shocks again. I have two cars and the second one I finnally got my tamiya set mounted up and they are pretty good. What oils/spring should I be running with these shocks?
08-08-2012, 11:42 PM
#3424
may i ask for a set up sheet/advice for an asphalt indoor track, 40 meter straight, it has 2 long sweepers (the first and last turns). it gets technical inside, but still flowing.
traction is from medium to high. the qualifying heats are medium (middle to late afternoon), but when you get to the finals (come night time), traction is high.
my particular problem really is when i get inside, the car seems too slow on middle and exit corners.
I'll be running an ORCA 13.5 T motor boosted with a Tekin RS Pro and our spec tire is a RIDE RE36.
many thanks in advance.
traction is from medium to high. the qualifying heats are medium (middle to late afternoon), but when you get to the finals (come night time), traction is high.
my particular problem really is when i get inside, the car seems too slow on middle and exit corners.
I'll be running an ORCA 13.5 T motor boosted with a Tekin RS Pro and our spec tire is a RIDE RE36.
many thanks in advance.
Last edited by alecladanga; 08-09-2012 at 12:09 AM.
08-09-2012, 02:38 AM
#3425
I know this issue has been beaten to a pulp, but I'm getting frustrated and out of solutions...
I've switched right components with left components including rear hubs, arms, suspension holders, 1.50mm washers, switched entire suspension, switched what hudy device used, wheel hexes, I even bought the one piece front rear suspension holder....everything I tried end up with 2 degrees toe on the left and the right will vary from 3.1 to 4 degrees. I've taken everything apart and rebuilt/rescrewed....
Whenever I use a washer on the left to compensate, the right just increases. I put in a washer almost double the size apprx 3mm on the left and finally got 3 degrees, but then the right was at 4 degrees.
I spent half a grand on this car and this issue is making me really question my decision.
In my past experience I notice a great difference in driving with even rear toe than uneven...so I'm not just OCD, this thing drives like garbage with the toe being 1 degree different and I'm not that good of a driver to drive it like this....
I've switched right components with left components including rear hubs, arms, suspension holders, 1.50mm washers, switched entire suspension, switched what hudy device used, wheel hexes, I even bought the one piece front rear suspension holder....everything I tried end up with 2 degrees toe on the left and the right will vary from 3.1 to 4 degrees. I've taken everything apart and rebuilt/rescrewed....
Whenever I use a washer on the left to compensate, the right just increases. I put in a washer almost double the size apprx 3mm on the left and finally got 3 degrees, but then the right was at 4 degrees.
I spent half a grand on this car and this issue is making me really question my decision.
In my past experience I notice a great difference in driving with even rear toe than uneven...so I'm not just OCD, this thing drives like garbage with the toe being 1 degree different and I'm not that good of a driver to drive it like this....
And driving with uneven rear toe is really bad, in fact when my car goes "bad", one of the first things I do is check rear toe on hudy station and change damaged upright.
08-09-2012, 03:31 AM
#3426
may i ask for a set up sheet/advice for an asphalt indoor track, 40 meter straight, it has 2 long sweepers (the first and last turns). it gets technical inside, but still flowing.
traction is from medium to high. the qualifying heats are medium (middle to late afternoon), but when you get to the finals (come night time), traction is high.
my particular problem really is when i get inside, the car seems too slow on middle and exit corners.
I'll be running an ORCA 13.5 T motor boosted with a Tekin RS Pro and our spec tire is a RIDE RE36.
many thanks in advance.
traction is from medium to high. the qualifying heats are medium (middle to late afternoon), but when you get to the finals (come night time), traction is high.
my particular problem really is when i get inside, the car seems too slow on middle and exit corners.
I'll be running an ORCA 13.5 T motor boosted with a Tekin RS Pro and our spec tire is a RIDE RE36.
many thanks in advance.
If so, you could try standing the shocks up more.
08-09-2012, 05:59 AM
#3427
08-09-2012, 06:05 AM
#3428
When I was asking for advice at an indoor track I was told that I lacked corner speed, my car was described as 'stalling in the corners' so I was told to stand the shocks up, it definitely helped me. 
Let us know if it worked for you or not.
Skiddins
Let us know if it worked for you or not.
Skiddins
08-09-2012, 10:44 AM
#3429
Have you tried replacing the rear upright/s. They get twisted or something. Whenever my toe is uneven L to R i change the side which is incorrect and then re-test and bingo all good. I have inspected the "twisted" upright removed and can never see anything wrong, but it solves the problem.
And driving with uneven rear toe is really bad, in fact when my car goes "bad", one of the first things I do is check rear toe on hudy station and change damaged upright.
And driving with uneven rear toe is really bad, in fact when my car goes "bad", one of the first things I do is check rear toe on hudy station and change damaged upright.
08-09-2012, 01:04 PM
#3430
08-09-2012, 04:13 PM
#3432
I have noticed that my car is loose on power when turning to the right, but has plenty of rear traction going into left hand turns.
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
08-09-2012, 04:43 PM
#3433
I have noticed that my car is loose on power when turning to the right, but has plenty of rear traction going into left hand turns.
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
08-09-2012, 04:47 PM
#3434
I have noticed that my car is loose on power when turning to the right, but has plenty of rear traction going into left hand turns.
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
It proved it today when the car would do spin and do donuts in a right hand turn, but push and be stable turning left, unable to spin/do donut.
I have reset the car to kit setup except for 4 holes open in the rear shocks to get more traction, and the ever present different toe setting left to right, with 2mm spacers on the left lower suspension arm mount and 1.5 on the right to give an overall rear toe in of 3 degrees toe in.
Maybe I need to install new rear uprights as suggested, but the toe issue has always been there, even from brand new kit.
Would weight balance cause this? I was also thinking maybe the motor is weighing that side down, causing it to bite into the track and spin the car also.
Running near new tires, checked everything for binding, reset cambers etc
08-09-2012, 05:00 PM
#3435
dont have a tweak station unfortunatly. Will have to just do it the old fashioned way and unscrew everything and tighten it all back up
Is there a way to check the dual rate side to side? Not sure If I have done that before it doesnt make sense as dual rate is juts one setting. I dont generally run any anyway, DR is at 100. I rely on expo for smoother steering usually
Is there a way to check the dual rate side to side? Not sure If I have done that before it doesnt make sense as dual rate is juts one setting. I dont generally run any anyway, DR is at 100. I rely on expo for smoother steering usually
