Xray T3 2012
#3121
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)

I'm a cheap ass so I never tried the Xray ECS shafts and went for the version 2 Spec-R ECS shafts. I've got 6 days on them and two hard hits and they are straight, tight and free. After the second hard hit one bound up a little but that was easily cleared up by cleaning the pin holes in the housing. So far I'm pretty happy with them.
Then it makes sense to get the cheaper ones

#3122

Rear. I've been running 2.6/2.4 with 400cst and put the progressive on the rear. It made the car rotate through the turns amazingly well, but I think it overheated the tires with a quickness. We're putting new carpet down right now (HD, yay!) which should give us a bit more normal traction, so I'll be revisiting a lot of setup things to see how they work over the next few months. I plan on taking two 12's to IIC, one with each chassis combo and then running the one that works best. Or both.
Good question, we've had a short sweeper layout up for a while now. The previous one had sort of a medium sweeper, and it seemed fine. Here's a video of my car.
Good question, we've had a short sweeper layout up for a while now. The previous one had sort of a medium sweeper, and it seemed fine. Here's a video of my car.
#3123
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)

I'm a cheap ass so I never tried the Xray ECS shafts and went for the version 2 Spec-R ECS shafts. I've got 6 days on them and two hard hits and they are straight, tight and free. After the second hard hit one bound up a little but that was easily cleared up by cleaning the pin holes in the housing. So far I'm pretty happy with them.
#3124

Because I'm pretty happy with the Spec-R version 2 so far and they are only about $45 shipped I would still go with the Spec-R and spent the rest of the money on new tires. Mileage varies I'm sure but I'm happy so far.
#3125

Rear. I've been running 2.6/2.4 with 400cst and put the progressive on the rear. It made the car rotate through the turns amazingly well, but I think it overheated the tires with a quickness. We're putting new carpet down right now (HD, yay!) which should give us a bit more normal traction, so I'll be revisiting a lot of setup things to see how they work over the next few months. I plan on taking two 12's to IIC, one with each chassis combo and then running the one that works best. Or both.
Good question, we've had a short sweeper layout up for a while now. The previous one had sort of a medium sweeper, and it seemed fine. Here's a video of my car.
Good question, we've had a short sweeper layout up for a while now. The previous one had sort of a medium sweeper, and it seemed fine. Here's a video of my car.
EA
#3126

OK. Reason I ask is I tried them on front and rear in Poland along with some of the others. The Spring is equal to the Yokomo spring or very close. Most run it on the front to settle the car down but give more steering in the center. So you may try it with your normal 2.4 or 2.6 on the rear just to see how it feels.
#3127

Hey guys just wondering if anybody here has run a front gear diff with 100000 in it ...and if so what did u think?
#3128

Sorry, but I found that when using Blue the pins moved on me, I had to use red to hold the pins in place, that is until I went to Top's pin holders: Link I know others have suggested these and they are GREAT. No more CVD Pin issues.... These holders cut my lap times by .2 per lap...


(Joke)....




#3131
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)

Yup .. the notched-pins should be bought right away for $5 .. never had one come out in 2 years (no heatshrink or collars).
A quick note on threadlock -
Make sure that you wipe ANY excess off right away or blow it out with an air compressor. If you get any between the coupling and the shaft (the rotating part) it may cause binding by seeping between the 2 parts. It's not immediately obvious untill it dries and at that point is probably installed in your car. Learned this a while back, when building some ECS for a friend.
A quick note on threadlock -
Make sure that you wipe ANY excess off right away or blow it out with an air compressor. If you get any between the coupling and the shaft (the rotating part) it may cause binding by seeping between the 2 parts. It's not immediately obvious untill it dries and at that point is probably installed in your car. Learned this a while back, when building some ECS for a friend.
#3132

I really like the thin/thin combo on the rug. In the faster classes, it gives me more steering at the expense of corner speed, but that works for me. It's one of those tuning options that requires you to bring two cars along, though.
The progressive springs were really strange for me. They create a dramatically different feeling in the car. I put them on last week and my first 3 laps were the 3 fastest I've ever turned on a layout I've been racing on a lot for 3 months. Then the car became loose and impossible to drive. I guess you could say they got progressively worse.
It really surprised me how different they made the car feel.
The progressive springs were really strange for me. They create a dramatically different feeling in the car. I put them on last week and my first 3 laps were the 3 fastest I've ever turned on a layout I've been racing on a lot for 3 months. Then the car became loose and impossible to drive. I guess you could say they got progressively worse.
It really surprised me how different they made the car feel.
#3134
Tech Adept

Hi,
Random question, when using the same set of tyres for a few meetings, is it best to keep them in the same position on the car or to switch them over left to right after each meeting so they wear more evenly?
Random question, when using the same set of tyres for a few meetings, is it best to keep them in the same position on the car or to switch them over left to right after each meeting so they wear more evenly?
#3135
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)

