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Xray T3 2012

Old 06-12-2012, 08:58 AM
  #2806  
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Can anyone tell me the difference between these servo savers:

372500
372502
372503

Which one would you recommend for TC?

Thanks
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:00 AM
  #2807  
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Originally Posted by bukil
Can anyone tell me the difference between these servo savers:

372500
372502
372503

Which one would you recommend for TC?

Thanks
372503 is what you are looking for...it is a really good servo saver for TC.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:46 PM
  #2808  
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I am looking for out drives for the front of my t3 12 car. I am using the stock composite ones without the plastic piece at this time. I haven't broke a composite yet, but I know it's coming. I also have a t3 11 that I bought used and it came with some gold ones that I can run without the plastic piece. I would like to find the gold ones for the 12
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:44 PM
  #2809  
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
hi all,

i'm looking to upgrade my '11 to the 2012 spec, and have read through the commentary regarding the thinner flex chassis upgrades from xray, smokem', VBC etc.

typically i run on low-medium grip asphalt here in sydney.

before i go out and spend the coin,would the advice be to go straight to the 1.6 / 2mm flex option from xray or stick with the kit chassis? aside from a lack of turn-in (which apparently the 12 spec is an improvement on), the 11 spec goes ok so i would rather not spend the extra coin if i'm not going to be happy with the upgrade.

looking forward to your thoughts.
I run a T3 here in Sydney also.

I swear by the 2.0m chassis with the standard top deck, I have persevered with the thick and tried to get it going as well as I like the thin, but couldn't I am back to the thin and extremely happy.

In saying that it appears to be personal preference, as some of the guys have done just as well with the standard chassis.

Might be also worth Noting Lemieux ran the thin chassis and thick top deck at last weekends pre worlds. He is also a big fan of the thin thick combo.

Best of luck

Nathan
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:07 PM
  #2810  
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Originally Posted by NR
I run a T3 here in Sydney also.

I swear by the 2.0m chassis with the standard top deck, I have persevered with the thick and tried to get it going as well as I like the thin, but couldn't I am back to the thin and extremely happy.

In saying that it appears to be personal preference, as some of the guys have done just as well with the standard chassis.

Might be also worth Noting Lemieux ran the thin chassis and thick top deck at last weekends pre worlds. He is also a big fan of the thin thick combo.

Best of luck

Nathan

Cheers mate, parts on order..
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:03 AM
  #2811  
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Originally Posted by stro3579
I am looking for out drives for the front of my t3 12 car. I am using the stock composite ones without the plastic piece at this time. I haven't broke a composite yet, but I know it's coming. I also have a t3 11 that I bought used and it came with some gold ones that I can run without the plastic piece. I would like to find the gold ones for the 12
They're made by RNR racing. Speedtech used to do them, and ebay, but quite hard to find now
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:09 AM
  #2812  
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Originally Posted by NR
I run a T3 here in Sydney also.

I swear by the 2.0m chassis with the standard top deck, I have persevered with the thick and tried to get it going as well as I like the thin, but couldn't I am back to the thin and extremely happy.

In saying that it appears to be personal preference, as some of the guys have done just as well with the standard chassis.

Might be also worth Noting Lemieux ran the thin chassis and thick top deck at last weekends pre worlds. He is also a big fan of the thin thick combo.

Best of luck

Nathan
When using the 2mm chassis, Do you shim the bulkheads up with 0.5 mm spacers as suggested by xray?
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:31 AM
  #2813  
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Originally Posted by stro3579
I am looking for out drives for the front of my t3 12 car. I am using the stock composite ones without the plastic piece at this time. I haven't broke a composite yet, but I know it's coming. I also have a t3 11 that I bought used and it came with some gold ones that I can run without the plastic piece. I would like to find the gold ones for the 12
http://www.sidepieceracing.com/products/nikita/

They're not gold, but very strong
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:10 AM
  #2814  
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Originally Posted by kinga
When using the 2mm chassis, Do you shim the bulkheads up with 0.5 mm spacers as suggested by xray?
I did first time around, however on Hagbergs recommendation, I left them out this time round, apparently leaving them out makes it a little easier to drive.

To be honest I can't tell the difference between the shimmed and unshimmed.

Nathan
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:02 AM
  #2815  
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Default Motor mount screw

What is the general consensus on using the "center motor mount screw" ?
With previous T3's I used to leave it off in 17.5 etc to allow more rear flex but running mod I feel the gear mesh at mod rpm requires more rigidity to maintain good gear mesh. Thoughts on this ? Does anyone notice a handling difference on the '12 if the screw is left out ? Any gear mesh issues ?

To clarify this is the screw from the bottom of the chassis , its centered in the chassis , holds the black L shaped "bracket" between the motor mount and the carbon fiber chassis .

Thanks,

Jake D.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:17 AM
  #2816  
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
What is the general consensus on using the "center motor mount screw" ?
With previous T3's I used to leave it off in 17.5 etc to allow more rear flex but running mod I feel the gear mesh at mod rpm requires more rigidity to maintain good gear mesh. Thoughts on this ? Does anyone notice a handling difference on the '12 if the screw is left out ? Any gear mesh issues ?

To clarify this is the screw from the bottom of the chassis , its centered in the chassis , holds the black L shaped "bracket" between the motor mount and the carbon fiber chassis .

Thanks,

Jake D.
Yeah mod has a tendencie to be a lot more violent on chassis flex. I switched to a 1.6mm top deck and had better results but that was running 17.5 blinky. I am going to try 2.0mm chassis and 1.6 mm top plate on monday running 17.5 blinky. then try 2.5mm chassis and 1.6mm top plate in 13.5.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:18 AM
  #2817  
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
What is the general consensus on using the "center motor mount screw" ?
With previous T3's I used to leave it off in 17.5 etc to allow more rear flex but running mod I feel the gear mesh at mod rpm requires more rigidity to maintain good gear mesh. Thoughts on this ? Does anyone notice a handling difference on the '12 if the screw is left out ? Any gear mesh issues ?

To clarify this is the screw from the bottom of the chassis , its centered in the chassis , holds the black L shaped "bracket" between the motor mount and the carbon fiber chassis .

Thanks,

Jake D.
I only remove screws when I run mod, and I only remove them from the top deck. Either just 2 from the back, or 2 from the back plus two from the front.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:22 AM
  #2818  
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
What is the general consensus on using the "center motor mount screw" ?
With previous T3's I used to leave it off in 17.5 etc to allow more rear flex but running mod I feel the gear mesh at mod rpm requires more rigidity to maintain good gear mesh. Thoughts on this ? Does anyone notice a handling difference on the '12 if the screw is left out ? Any gear mesh issues ?

To clarify this is the screw from the bottom of the chassis , its centered in the chassis , holds the black L shaped "bracket" between the motor mount and the carbon fiber chassis .

Thanks,

Jake D.
I don't think this car needs anymore rear grip.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:29 AM
  #2819  
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Originally Posted by defcone
I don't think this car needs anymore rear grip.
I should have clarified, I'm using the exotek conversion ....

So Defcone , you are implying you notice a difference of added rear traction without the screw or were you just making a general statement ?
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:36 AM
  #2820  
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
I should have clarified, I'm using the exotek conversion , but the question I should have asked is, do people notice a significant handling difference , and is it trouble to not use the screw in mod due to gear mesh issues ?

So Defcone , you are implying you notice a difference of added rear traction without the screw or were you just making a general statement ?
I think he's saying in general that the car has plenty of rear traction without removing screws.

I stripped a lot of spurs in mod even without removing a screw from the motor bulk head, so I would definitely advise against it. You don't want any flex right there.
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