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Xray T3 2012

Old 06-03-2012, 05:42 AM
  #2701  
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Not sure where you race as you don't have a location listed. Windy day here in the Midwest yesterday. We were all having the same trouble and concluded it was just the wind doing it. We all were having to trim out radios to go straight on the straightaway.

Could be tweak or some other kind of imbalance. What kind of servo? Are you running a cap on your receiver? Maybe the servo is losing power (strength) at full throttle?
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:55 AM
  #2702  
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Originally Posted by smilekt View Post
need help

My car have top steer .. when on throttle .. my car will go to left .. on natural throttle car starihgt.

what should im looking
is it shock ?
or toe ?
or tire ?
balance right & left or other else should im looking ?

thank for help
Might be your droop, place your car on a flat surface and lift the center of the rear end and look to see if your wheels lift off the surface the same time. Are you using a servo saver? Try swapping that for a servo horn see if that fixes the problem.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:27 AM
  #2703  
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You should check
Tweak
Servo saver
Bearings
Shocks (if all4 still have same amount of rebound)
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:56 AM
  #2704  
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Nexus has the new servo mount in stock.

I ran it for the first time last week. I don't know if was the difference or not, but that's the best and easiest my car has ever been to drive. It certainly didn't hurt.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:13 AM
  #2705  
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
I'm having trouble getting my servo saver to 90 degrees. The link is bottomed out. This is with a bls551. Is this a common problem? I suppose I could just get a shorter turnbuckle.

Took the car out for the first time today. Heaven.
My car has been great and can achieve full steering throw but I to can not get my servo saver perfectly 90 degrees also. Let me know if you find a solution. Thanks
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:52 AM
  #2706  
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Originally Posted by bozzplayer View Post
ok so in his setup sheet he has a 1mm checked off for the front, so this would mean that a 1mm go infront of the front wishbone and nothing in the rear, and in the rear he has the 2mm and the 0 checked off, this would mean he puts a 2mm in the front rear wishbone and the remaining 1mm in the rear?, thanks for your help guys
Correct about the rear, but the fronts have a total of 2mm of spacers, so with 1mm in front of the front wishbones, he must also have a 1mm spacer at the back of the front wishbones (kit setup)
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:53 AM
  #2707  
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
My car has been great and can achieve full steering throw but I to can not get my servo saver perfectly 90 degrees also. Let me know if you find a solution. Thanks
See post #2687
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:59 AM
  #2708  
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Can anyhone tell me what the front trackwidth is when setup as kit?

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:39 AM
  #2709  
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Can someone explain the shim behind the shock setup?

- what does it do?
- which box on the setup sheet indicates it?
- I assume the shims should be the same both at the top and bottom of the shocks?

I built mine with no shims. Seemed to work.
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:18 PM
  #2710  
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Hi,

Ive noticed in recent setups that people are now putting the diffs in the upward position rather than the down position which is kit. What affect does changing the diff position have on the cars handling?
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
My car has been great and can achieve full steering throw but I to can not get my servo saver perfectly 90 degrees also. Let me know if you find a solution. Thanks

I had a similar question over in the '11 thread. What I was told is that 90 degrees with the arm and chasis isn't what you are looking for. Rather, you want 90 degrees between the link and the arm. The arc the arm travels is what you need to be concerned with.

If you have your arm perfectly centered and your endpoints adjusted for full lock, check their values. I bet they are not the same.

I had some weird steering issues going on and after adjusting using the following technique my steering has really improved.

Here is the method:

If your right endpoint is higher, shorten the link, adjust subtrim to center steering, readjust endpoints for steering symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.

If your left endpoint is higher, make the link longer, adjust subtrim to center the steering, readjust endpoints for symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.

Due to some steering layouts, if may be necessary to reverse the above procedure.

Worked great for me, but it is a bit tedious!
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I had a similar question over in the '11 thread. What I was told is that 90 degrees with the arm and chasis isn't what you are looking for. Rather, you want 90 degrees between the link and the arm. The arc the arm travels is what you need to be concerned with.

If you have your arm perfectly centered and your endpoints adjusted for full lock, check their values. I bet they are not the same.

I had some weird steering issues going on and after adjusting using the following technique my steering has really improved.

Here is the method:

If your right endpoint is higher, shorten the link, adjust subtrim to center steering, readjust endpoints for steering symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.

If your left endpoint is higher, make the link longer, adjust subtrim to center the steering, readjust endpoints for symmetry, recheck endpoints, repeat if necessary.

Due to some steering layouts, if may be necessary to reverse the above procedure.

Worked great for me, but it is a bit tedious!
90 degrees between the arm and the link would be even more challenging to get with the stock pieces.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
Hi,

Ive noticed in recent setups that people are now putting the diffs in the upward position rather than the down position which is kit. What affect does changing the diff position have on the cars handling?
The stock setting is up.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
90 degrees between the arm and the link would be even more challenging to get with the stock pieces.

I have a converted (east/west) config on my '11 and I have really close to 90 between my link and servo saver. My endpoints are exactly the same now whereas before they were about 25 points difference.
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I have a converted (east/west) config on my '11 and I have really close to 90 between my link and servo saver. My endpoints are exactly the same now whereas before they were about 25 points difference.
This is how close I can get with the stock link as short as possible. looks like I will need to find a shorter turnbuckle.


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