1LikesXray T3 2012
05-16-2012, 05:48 AM
#2495
I ask as the smaller the track, the lower the speeds, and therefor there is less likely to be any noticable difference due to reduced vibration.
We have also had a few drivers who have run ECS or Litmodz style driveshafts (on various cars) who have found that they require less steering lock for the same corners when using the non-standard parts.
Skiddins
05-16-2012, 05:55 AM
#2496
But was this testing on a smaller tight carpet track more common in the US or a fast flowing outdoor asphalt track, more common in Europe?
I ask as the smaller the track, the lower the speeds, and therefor there is less likely to be any noticable difference due to reduced vibration.
We have also had a few drivers who have run ECS or Litmodz style driveshafts (on various cars) who have found that they require less steering lock for the same corners when using the non-standard parts.
Skiddins
I ask as the smaller the track, the lower the speeds, and therefor there is less likely to be any noticable difference due to reduced vibration.
We have also had a few drivers who have run ECS or Litmodz style driveshafts (on various cars) who have found that they require less steering lock for the same corners when using the non-standard parts.
Skiddins
Here is the post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10708905-post6721.html
05-16-2012, 02:15 PM
#2498
ECS are an advantage for every TC class (potential exception modified). It kind of like having "turbo" when everyone us running blinky.. but the speed is in the corners, not the straight.
In mod you can get away with (near) zero corner speed by point-n-shooting from corner to come net.
In mod you can get away with (near) zero corner speed by point-n-shooting from corner to come net.
05-17-2012, 07:14 AM
#2501
Im sure the north american companies will get those parts soon enough....lol i dont think those specific parts and gonna drop tons of time of your lap times any ways lol
05-17-2012, 11:02 AM
#2502
Anyone was trying to run without 2 screws from upper deck (beside spur gear) to get more grip on the back and more flex?
05-17-2012, 11:56 AM
#2503
I am in the process of putting a new setup on the car. The box asphalt setup yielded a very loose car and so I am trying something new. I noticed while on the setup board I too have a rear toe discrepancy appx .50-.75 from one side to the other. I took apart the rear end and measured all pieces involved and after finding the parts to be within acceptable tolerance (less than .01) I reassembled leaving the screws loose and carefully working my way around and tightening. When done I had reduced the toe difference to less than .25mm.
If I were to want an even more accurate rear toe what is the solution. I am running 1 piece rear and 2 piece front blocks, I do not want to switch to a 1 piece front block at the price of losing grip. do you add spacers or sand the roll center block?
05-17-2012, 12:25 PM
#2504
I am running only the 2 front most screws on the front and the 2 rearmost screws on the rear of the top deck without problems (yet). I am not sure if this poses a problem with the pinion and spur mesh moving and creating a damaged spur gear do to excessive flex. we will see
I am in the process of putting a new setup on the car. The box asphalt setup yielded a very loose car and so I am trying something new. I noticed while on the setup board I too have a rear toe discrepancy appx .50-.75 from one side to the other. I took apart the rear end and measured all pieces involved and after finding the parts to be within acceptable tolerance (less than .01) I reassembled leaving the screws loose and carefully working my way around and tightening. When done I had reduced the toe difference to less than .25mm.
If I were to want an even more accurate rear toe what is the solution. I am running 1 piece rear and 2 piece front blocks, I do not want to switch to a 1 piece front block at the price of losing grip. do you add spacers or sand the roll center block?
I am in the process of putting a new setup on the car. The box asphalt setup yielded a very loose car and so I am trying something new. I noticed while on the setup board I too have a rear toe discrepancy appx .50-.75 from one side to the other. I took apart the rear end and measured all pieces involved and after finding the parts to be within acceptable tolerance (less than .01) I reassembled leaving the screws loose and carefully working my way around and tightening. When done I had reduced the toe difference to less than .25mm.
If I were to want an even more accurate rear toe what is the solution. I am running 1 piece rear and 2 piece front blocks, I do not want to switch to a 1 piece front block at the price of losing grip. do you add spacers or sand the roll center block?