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Old 05-08-2012, 04:51 AM
  #2416  
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Are you noticing a difference in handling with the toe discrepency or uneven tire wear or heat? Maybe you can leave it even though it seems off, .2 is not that bad. I might try a shock o ring or other oring in the equasion and tighten until it is even, not sure about how well it will hold up in time though.
I would not want to give up the rear grip but there are adjustments you can do to compensate if you do add the 1 piece mount in the rear of the front.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by roger999
guys, any ideas what to do to have same toe in on rear left and right wheels? right hand side is 3 but left hand side is about 2.8..? i pushed the alu holders against tightening direction but still is not right.. First was 2.5 but now i could do it until 2.8 but still have no 3... the car is brand new of course....
This is more likley to do with the combination and inconsistency in the thicknesses of the shims and the plastic suspension holders being used. Differences of up to .05 mm is pretty common when checked with calipers and is responsible for the small variances in toe from side to side. With some effort and an assortment of shims, you can get it perfect.. I ve also touched up the suspension holders with abit of sand paper to ensure consistent thickness as these can vary slightly too... Hope it helps...
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kinga
+1, I have had a t3r, t3 2011 and now t3 2012, and all have had different toe left to right.
I find 1.75mm of shims on the left, and 1.5mm shims on the right gives equal toe in of 3 degrees. Not sure why.
Using the one peice holder at the front of the rear will reduce rear flex and traction
Cool. will try it later. thanks.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:53 AM
  #2419  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Aim for a 4.0 FDR to start, depending on your track size, you may need to go lower. (I typically have a 92/44)
I currently run on a small/mid sized carpet track running 8.70fdr using a 13.5 boosted LRP x12! Do u still think 4.0fdr is a gd starting point or is that more for larger tracks?
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pchroma24
This is more likley to do with the combination and inconsistency in the thicknesses of the shims and the plastic suspension holders being used. Differences of up to .05 mm is pretty common when checked with calipers and is responsible for the small variances in toe from side to side. With some effort and an assortment of shims, you can get it perfect.. I ve also touched up the suspension holders with abit of sand paper to ensure consistent thickness as these can vary slightly too... Hope it helps...
yes i did sand suspension holders a bit, and decreased toe fron 2.5 to 2.8. But still need more will shim it a bit later and we will see the effect. thanks.

Updated:

used silver shim from kit, ~0.3mm and that problem is solved! Thanks to all.

Last edited by roger999; 05-08-2012 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:43 AM
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Will spurs from serpent fit on the T3?
I need smaller spurs and the smallest xray is 78.
Serpent goes to 72.
Thanks
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt W
I currently run on a small/mid sized carpet track running 8.70fdr using a 13.5 boosted LRP x12! Do u still think 4.0fdr is a gd starting point or is that more for larger tracks?
Yes 4.0 is a good starting point, on larger tracks we can run as low as 3.2, but generally 3.6-4.1 covers most medium sized tracks, and it depends on what motor, how much timing, and how hot that motor is getting. I run thunderpower motors with around 32dg of timing.
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by whityboy
Will spurs from serpent fit on the T3?
I need smaller spurs and the smallest xray is 78.
Serpent goes to 72.
Thanks
You won't be able to get to the second motor screw.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
You won't be able to get to the second motor screw.
If you ever need to use a spur that blocks access to the rearmost motor screw, just set the mesh using the front motor screw, then remove the spur/layshaft, tighten the rear motor screw, then put the spur back in.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by locked
If you ever need to use a spur that blocks access to the rearmost motor screw, just set the mesh using the front motor screw, then remove the spur/layshaft, tighten the rear motor screw, then put the spur back in.
+1 or you can drill a hole in the spur.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:54 PM
  #2426  
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Originally Posted by whityboy
Will spurs from serpent fit on the T3?
I need smaller spurs and the smallest xray is 78.
Serpent goes to 72.
Thanks
RW do 48p spurs for Xray, I run a 66t in my T3'12 & can get to motor screw,

though I do remove the top deck to make life easier when I change the pinion
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:22 PM
  #2427  
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Talking

Originally Posted by roger999
yes i did sand suspension holders a bit, and decreased toe fron 2.5 to 2.8. But still need more will shim it a bit later and we will see the effect. thanks.

Updated:

used silver shim from kit, ~0.3mm and that problem is solved! Thanks to all.
Its a good job these cars are suppose to be a luxury car. I'm so pleased I found this thread I thought my set up gear was out.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:33 PM
  #2428  
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Originally Posted by whityboy
Will spurs from serpent fit on the T3?
I need smaller spurs and the smallest xray is 78.
Serpent goes to 72.
Thanks
Originally Posted by FK05 lover
RW do 48p spurs for Xray, I run a 66t in my T3'12 & can get to motor screw,

though I do remove the top deck to make life easier when I change the pinion
+1 for RW spur gears, they are OEM for Schumacher cars and do Xray spurs that you want
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:01 PM
  #2429  
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anybody else notice that the instructions for the assembly of the ball diff are wrong
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:31 PM
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.

Last edited by silvalis; 05-08-2012 at 05:35 PM. Reason: nevermind
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