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Xray T3 2012

Old 03-23-2012, 12:59 PM
  #1921  
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
I have my mod car (4.5T) geared at around 8.0 FDR

I'd guess you would want to be somewhere around 8.5 FDR for a 3.5T
thanx broseph
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:12 PM
  #1922  
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My personal preference is:

64 pitch-carpet
48 pitch-outdoors(the tiny rocks dont get caught in your gears as easily)
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:13 PM
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According to some of those gearchart sites, they say you should be closer to 10.5 FDR for a 3.5 and for a 4.5 like mine they say 9.5 FDR, but my ReVtech 4.5 doesn't get even close to hot geared at 8.0, but has plenty of rip and top end.

So start up around 8.5 - 9, but check temps VERY frequently just in case.
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:17 PM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
thanx broseph
I ran my reedy 3.5 turn today probably for a good 10 minutes straight no boost no timing ....my fdr was 11.0 and the temp on her was 115F....so im guessing 8.5 9.0 is no problem but if your gonna run boost i think u might want to try her out at 9- 9.5 first check the temps then go from there.
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:49 PM
  #1925  
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Got this from Paul Lemiux a while back.

"This is a rule of thumb for non timing speedos and any motor manufacture. depending on the track size and motor it could be a tooth or two on the pinion different. for timing speedos it depends completely on the speedo setting and their is many different gearing options based upon the timing settings on the speedo.
Everyone needs to take notice of motor temp at 3min when trying a new set up to ensure not to blow a motor. any manufactures motor will taper off in on track performance around 190deg (magnet gets weak) and most manufactures will not blow up untill 210-230 deg or more. if at 3 min your motor exceeds 170deg you are most likely too aggressive on gear or timing for a 6 min run.

Again this is for non timing speedos and just a good rule of thumb for a starting point.
21.5 turn, 3.6 overall
17.5 turn, 4.2 overall
13.5 turn, 5.1 overall
10.5 turn, 5.7 overall
5 turn, 8.1 overall
4.5 turn, 8.4 overall
4 turn, 8.9 overall

hope this helps a little. Thanks "
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:51 AM
  #1926  
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Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
+1

using full lock steering results in lower corner speed which in turn means slower lap times, if you are using full lock, i would suggest making an adjustment to get more steering/ front grip out of the car. or less rear grip.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
Adjust your steering end points on your radio so that you do not hit the arms even when using full lock on the wheel....
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
+1

using full lock steering results in lower corner speed which in turn means slower lap times, if you are using full lock, i would suggest making an adjustment to get more steering/ front grip out of the car. or less rear grip.
Cheers guys, thanks for the help.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:34 PM
  #1931  
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
You could add a .75 shim or wider hexes, and remove shims at the arm mount to get the same width, this will affect handling a little, but may give you the clearance you need. If you run on one of those small tracks with a lot of 180's you may need full lock, if not, then I agree that full lock is probably hurting you more than helping.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
You could add a .75 shim or wider hexes, and remove shims at the arm mount to get the same width, this will affect handling a little, but may give you the clearance you need. If you run on one of those small tracks with a lot of 180's you may need full lock, if not, then I agree that full lock is probably hurting you more than helping.
That's a very good solution, by different it will only react even quicker due to a shorter camber link if I kept everything the same yeah?
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
That's a very good solution, by different it will only react even quicker due to a shorter camber link if I kept everything the same yeah?
Yes that is a small change, but I was thinking more about the scrub angle change, again, not huge, but they car may react a little different.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:14 PM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Yes that is a small change, but I was thinking more about the scrub angle change, again, not huge, but they car may react a little different.
and the shock angle will change, steering links will change seems ill just let it scrub haha
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
and the shock angle will change, steering links will change seems ill just let it scrub haha
It depends on how good the car is now, and how wide you are running it, we have high grip carpet here so I have 2.25mm shims on the front arms, I wouldn't hesitate to take out the .75 if I needed more steering.
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