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Xray T3 2012

Old 03-22-2012, 06:39 AM
  #1906  
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
try pushing the bladder into the shock body gently and let excess oil seep out over the rim before putting the cap on.
Then after that, tighten the cap slowly and don't overtighten it. It should be just a tiny bit past snug.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:14 AM
  #1907  
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Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
thanks... What do you recommend? 64 pitch? or just a different tooth 48p?
Deffinately 64 pitch. They are much quieter.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:20 AM
  #1908  
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Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
thanks... What do you recommend? 64 pitch? or just a different tooth 48p?
48dp, much easier to mesh and less likely to strip
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:07 PM
  #1909  
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64p is a little smoother/quieter, but can break teeth way easier and be more difficult to get a proper mesh.

48p is stronger and is easier to mesh

I ran 64p for close to a year before I ever stripped a spur, but then went through 3 in about a week, so I switched to 48p. I doubt I'll ever go back to 64p.

17.5 boosted is the slowest class I race now. If I was just running 17.5 blinky or slower, then I might still use 64p, because I think it might have slightly less resistance, but with the forces my motors put on the gears, I don't trust 64p anymore.
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
Deffinately 64 pitch. They are much quieter.
+1. run offroad if you like 48 pitch.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane View Post
+1. run offroad if you like 48 pitch.
The car comes with 48p.

Sure, you don't really need stronger gears for the gutless blinky classes you guys tend to race in the US, but much of the rest of the world aren't a bunch of sandbagging pussies.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:05 PM
  #1912  
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
The car comes with 48p.

Sure, you don't really need stronger gears for the gutless blinky classes you guys tend to race in the US, but much of the rest of the world aren't a bunch of sandbagging pussies.
+1
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:24 PM
  #1913  
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Another plus for 64p is tighter gear ratios for fine tuning.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:02 PM
  #1914  
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
The car comes with 48p.

Sure, you don't really need stronger gears for the gutless blinky classes you guys tend to race in the US, but much of the rest of the world aren't a bunch of sandbagging pussies.
Strong words coming from a Canadian!!!
Appreciate the help... First Onroad car, so I just wanted Some starting points... I do have the 3.5 as well... Just want to get my bearings before I dare drive like a Canadian
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:49 AM
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I was just throwing a little pit banter at our American friends. Hoping to goad some more into racing mod.

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Old 03-23-2012, 05:57 AM
  #1916  
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Anyone who can't set the gear mesh on 64p probably shouldn't be racing TC anyways. (Banter back-atcha)
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:39 AM
  #1917  
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yes, 64p is smoother, quieter and can raise or lower FDR by finer increments. I know a couple of guys who use 64p for mod, but I've also seen them DNF from stripping spurs.

Just a personal preference, but I find I drive better/faster when I have more confidence in my car's ability to take a bit of abuse and still finish even if that means it might not be quite as efficient. It's also why I don't use ECS most of the time. I trust the kit CVDs far more.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:42 AM
  #1918  
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Of course you do know that there was a batch of bad 64p Xray gears that came out too.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:33 PM
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What FDR you gunning for with mod? 6? Im gonna need somthing to shoot for when I strap in the 3.5
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:54 PM
  #1920  
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Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
What FDR you gunning for with mod? 6? Im gonna need somthing to shoot for when I strap in the 3.5
I have my mod car (4.5T) geared at around 8.0 FDR

I'd guess you would want to be somewhere around 8.5 FDR for a 3.5T
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