pchroma24

iTrader: (83)

If you don't mind a bit of machining/drilling... You can open the Tamiya threaded top rings to 9.1mm... They will then accept the xray original top caps... Makes for a nice factory look and the Tamiya shocks of course work awesome... I've done this several times with out issue... Hope it helps ....

Bigz84

iTrader: (24)

I think I've read by Fred H on here by adding the shim on the arm along w/ a shim on top does nothing but move the shock out, which does nothing. Only add a shim on top, which calms the initial steering. If i'm wrong, someone please chime in. I've read only add to the top of the shock. Hope this helps.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

The way I think of it is as if I'm holding a pipe in my hand. Put a blob of weight on each end of the pipe. Slide the weights out to the ends of the pipe and try to quickly rotate the the pipe back and forth. It's difficult to make the pipe change direction quickly because you have to over come the inertia of the weights. Now move the weights in toward your hand and it becomes easier the closer the weights get to your hand.
I think of the shocks as those weights. Put spacers behind the shocks and it becomes a little harder for the chassis to change direction quickly. It mellows out the chassis especially in high speed chicanes.

4skinz80

iTrader: (15)

does the kit come with a spur gear... if so what size? on xray's website I could only find what the 11 came with?
also whats a good FDR to shoot for with 17.5 boosted? 5.5?

COLD AS ICE

iTrader: (19)

You'll want to replace the spur straight off the start. It comes with an 84t 48 pitch spur gear. With 17.5 boost I would shoot for about a 6.0 fdr. Just remember that boost in these is like boost in a real car, the more you put through the engine, the faster it will be, plus motor temps will be lower with a 6.0 to a 6.4 fdr

4skinz80

iTrader: (15)

thanks... What do you recommend? 64 pitch? or just a different tooth 48p?

Patrick_S

Hi guys,

I got me a t3`12 for this year outdoor racing, though I'm really having a hard time getting the rebound on the plastic kit shocks even on all 4, without air in it.
I might be doing something wrong here, but I doubt it cause I tried every possible way described on the internet, and the manual.

Now I remember reading somewhere that the Alu shocks (308306-O) are much easier to set the rebound on.
My question is, is this really the case? I have seen the manual, and it definitely looks easier, but is this really true? Cause to be honest, the instructions to set the rebound for the plastic shocks seems easy too.

I hope you guys can help me out.

Patrick

locked

iTrader: (1)

Call me crazy, but I don't mind a little rebound. I minimize the amount by pushing the center of the bladder in with the shaft of a paint brush (or something similarly blunt like the eraser on a pencil) while making sure the piston is just a few mm from the top of the shock. Then when you put the cap on, don't tighten it too much. You can adjust the rebound a bit by how tight the cap is on, to get them all even.

If you want 0 rebound, drill a small hole in the plastic top piece so air can escape when you tighten the cap. A hot pin will also work for making a little hole.
Just to be clear, don't do this on an assembled shock. You just want a hole in the very top, not through the bladder.

Dane

iTrader: (26)

I feel like getting absolutely zero rebound can be hard. Too little oil and you get air; too much and you have rebound. Typically, I try to get the rebound equal left and right (maybe 2mm max) on each end of the car. To me, it's more important they have the same relative internal pressure versus getting all the rebound out of it and possibly introduce some air.

I don't think the aluminum shocks are warranted unless you are like some who can't stand plastic shocks on their $500 racing kit.

Just my 2cents.

Bigz84

iTrader: (24)

go to page 105 on this thread. Perfect way to do it. Alum shocks are not needed to do it. I know the alum shocks have the bigger pistons, 1.0 to 1.1, if you want a little more traction. My plastic shocks are set w/ 0 rebound, but it was a pain to do it before i read this.

i hope this helps

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Do you have a post count, page count changes as each person changes the page preferences.

Team_Krusty

iTrader: (3)

Shock build tips are post #1565

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10372457-post1565.html

Simon

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

A+ New Option Parts for T3
Adjust Alu. Lower Suspension Holder -0.5mm

Patrick_S

Locked: I have yet to figure out what kind of % rebound I like. I started with the basic setup for the t3, that would be 25% of rebound. I tried the way you described, only thing I did different is I put the bladder in the cap of the shock, and then screw it on. But after the shock cap was screwed on the shock shaft would push it self out (100% rebound). lol I even used some spare plastic shims from the kit to make sure all shocks were pressed in the same amount of mm before I screw the top cap on.
I have my shocks on 25% right now (after like 7/8 tries), only problem now is that when I pull the shock shaft out it sucks it self back 1/1.5mm in? I guess this is a problem?

Dane: I'm not trying to get 0% rebound. And no I'm not one of the guys who think the plastics look ugly, IMO they look kinda nice with the orange bits, just a pain to build again IMO.

All others: Thanks for your answers, going to try a couple more things.

Patrick

locked

iTrader: (1)

try pushing the bladder into the shock body gently and let excess oil seep out over the rim before putting the cap on.