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Xray T3 2012

Old 03-01-2012, 01:56 PM
  #1666  
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I have been running the +75 hexes in the front and the -75 hexes in the rear for sometime now. What should I notice by going back to the stock hexes all around? Thanks
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
I have been running the +75 hexes in the front and the -75 hexes in the rear for sometime now. What should I notice by going back to the stock hexes all around? Thanks
Honestly probably not much difference if you change both as this will somewhat offset each other.
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by theatriks
You might actually want to try and make an A main before u start talking like that...
Not only do i make the Amain i always seem to reset tq every other round
but nice to know that your trying to get fast enough to make the amain or even the B main, I'm sure ur employer Great Hobbies is thrilled to have a guy drive for them that makes the C main all the time
see you sunday at the race Rob
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:16 AM
  #1669  
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Originally Posted by haywood
I have been running the +75 hexes in the front and the -75 hexes in the rear for sometime now. What should I notice by going back to the stock hexes all around? Thanks
Narrow the front track width and you'll get a little more front grip/steering. Widen the rear track width and you'll get a little less rear grip and more on power steering. So it's gonna change the car a lot depending on the rest of your setup. I've tried different track widths front and rear on both of my 2012 cars, it's a fairly significant adjustment on this car, IMO.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by pcar951
Narrow the front track width and you'll get a little more front grip/steering. Widen the rear track width and you'll get a little less rear grip and more on power steering. So it's gonna change the car a lot depending on the rest of your setup. I've tried different track widths front and rear on both of my 2012 cars, it's a fairly significant adjustment on this car, IMO.
+1

What do you think the difference is in narrowing on the inside/Hagberg style vs. using narrower hexes outboard?
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:14 AM
  #1671  
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Originally Posted by Emil
+1

What do you think the difference is in narrowing on the inside/Hagberg style vs. using narrower hexes outboard?
Narrowing at the suspension blocks makes the upper camber length shorter. Hexes only change width, not camber link as well.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:10 AM
  #1672  
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Originally Posted by tak4
Hey guys, just got myself a T3'12 and was just wondering how to the plastic shocks hold up in crashes. Do they pop off easily and is there a true need to upgrade to aluminium parts?

Cheers for any input provided.

Three hours into the build and I'm loving it.
They should survive crashes. Only once a friend of mine had a brocken shock body. But this is one case in over 3 years. So dont bother about this.

I upgraded to alu shocks too.
They feel better. But most important for me: they are much more forgiving on curbs which is nice on our tight indoor carpet track.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by orci77
They should survive crashes. Only once a friend of mine had a brocken shock body. But this is one case in over 3 years. So dont bother about this.

I upgraded to alu shocks too.
They feel better. But most important for me: they are much more forgiving on curbs which is nice on our tight indoor carpet track.
What aluminum shock bodies are used? I am new to xray and interested in the alu shocks. Are people useing the trf shocks with exotek caps and collars? Or is there an actual xray alu shock body?
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamison R
What aluminum shock bodies are used? I am new to xray and interested in the alu shocks. Are people useing the trf shocks with exotek caps and collars? Or is there an actual xray alu shock body?


For xray shocks.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:23 PM
  #1675  
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I've had my first two training days and I must say the car is superb to drive, the problem being the pins in the joint came loose two times in 6 batteries resulting in them rubbing the plastic (hope you understand the problem?). I have now flattend them as someone posted before, so I hope it will work now.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:10 PM
  #1676  
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Hit a stumbling block while completing my build yesterday.... One of my drive shaft isn't threaded. The others are ok...

Kinda made me lol a bit before realising I'd have to wait longer before getting my car on the track... T_T
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2012-a1.jpg  
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tak4
Hit a stumbling block while completing my build yesterday.... One of my drive shaft isn't threaded. The others are ok...

Kinda made me lol a bit before realising I'd have to wait longer before getting my car on the track... T_T
i clicked on the pic before reading the post and i instantly was like it doesnt look threaded thats a shame man!
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:48 PM
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Yep... It's unfortunate. And the build was going so smoothly too. Just my luck these days...
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tak4
Hit a stumbling block while completing my build yesterday.... One of my drive shaft isn't threaded. The others are ok...

Kinda made me lol a bit before realising I'd have to wait longer before getting my car on the track... T_T
How does that slip thru qc?
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone


For xray shocks.
Is there a part #?
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