Speedie

Harlow,
I started ya a new thread with the correct name in the title.

I finally found time to try out the comm replacement sleeves from Fussy Brush. I must say it was alot easier than I thought it would be. The most difficult part for me was cleaning out the solder from the slots after it was all done. Ill give my thoughts on each step.

The first thing to do is cut the comm down and place a layer of solder on the segments. The key to this was making sure the flux was covering every surface completely. I followed the instructions on the site by putting solder on the end of my 40w iron and simply spreading it over the segments one at a time. Also the bottom on the comm needs to have a square cut at the bottom for the sleve to sit against, this was easily achieved by setting a stop on my lathe.

Then the soldered surfaces need to be cut down to size so that the sleve fits easily over but not snug and not loose. Specs are in the instructions. This was easy as solder cuts very easy. It looked cool when done, too bad someone just cant make copper solder.

Then the sleve goes on and line up the slots. Fussy Brush makes a cool jig for holding the sleve on the comm while soldering. I wanted to try it in my vise I rigged up for this wich worked pretty well. This was the easy part I coated the comm and the inside of the sleve with flux. and also on the outside of the sleve. then with a small amount of solder on the tip to help with heat transfer just had to touch the iron to each segment one at a time. As soon as the flux bubbled up out of the seam at the bottom of the comm feed a little solder into the seem as per instructions.

With the segments all together they just need to be trued down to the clean new fresh copper, clean out the slots and thats it. I did get some solder off to the sides of the wire tabs. Wich I scraped off with an exacto before I made the final cutts. I did this so the balance would still be good.

I havent dynoed it or ran it on the track yet but it looks sweet.

Harlow, You are the man. this has to be one of the biggest things to hit RC motors in years. Imagine now you can keep that hot arm youve been saving and rebuild the comm and ripp it up some more after you thought it was dead.

Here are some pics.

Speedie

Speedie

kh15

hows it run? is it like new?

Speedie

It broke in great and seems to be fine Ill let ya all know after I test it on the track tomorrow.

Boomer

I'm awaiting mine. I'll do as much benchmarking as I can both subjective and objective.

It's not that expensive so I figured I'd give it a shot.

I also picked up their brush serrator - nice idea to do it inside the can rather than outside. . .

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

the real test will be for really high rpm motors at high temps (7turn), if it can withstand that kind of test then it will be gold

Harlow

Speedie, thanks for the input. I have to say I am a bit ancious to here from users.

The adapted Hobby Vise looks good. Would like to add that pic to my site if t is OK. The only benefit of our jig would be flexibility. I find myself turning the jig in all directions to get a good angle when soldering and cutting the slots out.

Let me know what you want, 6 free sleeves or a free jig.

dontfeelcold, I have a 6x1 D5 to test but haven't had time. Have also shipped an order to a multi (12x) national drag racing champion. I would think that would be the ultimate test.

We are using C110ETP (Electrolytic Tough Pitch) solid copper rod to make these sleeves. As mentioned on the site, the only reason they would fail would be excessive heat which melts the solder or if the original solder joint was weak. FYI- the copper scraps are being saved for meltdown in a furnace.

DonkeyPuncher

seems like a he11 of alot of work to save on a $15 part to me.

kidDynomite

Donkey, not all arms are the same. I have a 19t with specs my friends can't touch. I always save it for the Mains, but like Speedie said, I can now rip it up some more.

The cool factor is, it can be done. And that make the hardcore racer even harder.

Boomer

Exactly.

Besides, for me it's far more than the cost of the arm. I like fiddling and I am also on a budget so spending $5 to re-do a comm instead of spending $35 on a new motor. . .well, that might make sense!

Speedie

I ran the monster I rebuilt last night for a few practice runs. It ran well but I had it in a new chassis I am trying to figure out so it wasnt a real good test. Comm wear was really good definately compareable to the original copper. I threw some teeth at it and got it up to a smoking 190f besides burning the brushes a little it didnt fly apart and only took a slight cut today to clean it up. It definately works.

I think it has two advantages one saves the average racer money that they can spend elseware. And it'll save from scrapping that hot arm alot of us have lying around but cant bear to throw away.

DonkeyPuncher

Just because your arm is out of surface doesn't mean you need to buy a new motor. A replacement arm is about $15. I would have concerns that once I did all the new soldering etc, that the arm would be out of balance. Just my opinion but it seems like alot of teadious work to save $15.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

My question is this ROAR legal for stock motor racing

Boomer

I don't often see my LHS with just arms.

edited cause I was wrong!