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Old 11-18-2004, 06:36 PM   #16
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Page 24 / 5-20, No substantial changes to the commutator.

My original goal for this product was to keep practice motors going. I didn't really intend on them being for large sanctioned races. I expected a performance loss because of the soldering technique, since solder doesn't flow as well as copper. After testing I found overall performance was about the same. I think there is more resistance in the connection between the comm tabs and the windings than there is in the comm itself, so even with the solder the comm seems to flow electricity faster than the comm tabs can deliver it or the arm wire can accept it.

Another goal was to have the ability to play around with some ideas without eating up my $35.00 comms. One thing I want to try is putting a slight diamond pattern on the comm when truing. This can be done by simply feeding your bit rapidly in one direction with a low rpm and then reverse it back in the other direction. Maybe .001 deep. I think this would give the comm enough texture to keep a fresh surface on the brush during the entire race. Something else I want to try is putting oversize copper on, trimming all of it down except for maybe 1/32 " by the comm tabs. This would leave (3) 1/32" by say, 1/16" high tabs sticking up that could be slightly bent to make a fan. Just some thoughts.

About the ROAR legal. I quess it depends on whether replacing the copper is considered "substantial modification" or "maintenance / repair"
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Old 11-18-2004, 06:39 PM   #17
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Hey - are you still backordered? I ordered the brush-serrator and the com jig and a few coms. . .wondering if they're shipped yet?
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Old 11-18-2004, 07:00 PM   #18
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It's illegal....you are techincally replacing/modifying the comm. The only modification in the rule book in regards to stock motor comms is that you can lathe true them....

It's all moot though.....very few tracks enforce ROAR rules on stocks and national events always use handout motors....


I think the savings comes in two ways....one, modified arms are much more expensive than $15....and two, assuming there is no or little loss in performance, then these are invaluable in letting you keep that rocket arm you got in stock or modified....instead of a crap shoot that your replacement stock arm will be worth a crap.

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Old 11-18-2004, 07:38 PM   #19
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Boomer, still backordered, send me an email with your order info and I'll let you know when yours will ship.

Eddie0, I really don't know what the verdict would be since technically you are replacing the copper, not the comm.
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Old 11-25-2004, 01:06 PM   #20
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ROAR is going to look into the rules and make a ruling on it. I finally ran a stocker with the comm replaced in a race yesterday. There was no difference in performance between the repaired comm and a new one. It preformed flawlessly. Still havent track tested it on a mod yet but I think heat is going to be the only limiting factor. As long as the comm doesnt get hot enough to melt solder it should work the same. Even if it is an issue it should only take a hotter iron and some hotter minimal melting point solder to fix the issue if there is one.
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:59 PM   #21
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Ok, so let me get this straight. Is the a "retread" for my armature that has a dead com. Crap, I should not have thrown all those old arms away!
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Old 12-07-2004, 07:59 PM   #22
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Correct. It has been working great for me so far. I even tried to get a test motor to fail and couldnt. After a couple of times doing it, its not that hard at all. Really a super inovation for us all.
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:34 AM   #23
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I received my comm replacement and fussy brushes last week.
Replacing a worn comm was soo easy

It took me 1 hour the first time because I doublechecked every step against the instructions. The 2nd comm only took about half an hour.
Getting the solder out between the comm slots is a bitch and if you don't do that properly you will short the arm and it will overheat and blow up.
(Put it in a can and spin it, if it doesn't spin freely it's still shorted)

On the Robitronics dyno I did not notice a performace decrease, I did notice the comm got larger though in the graphs.

Next Sunday I am going to see if the comm sleeves hold up.
(Going to try a 12x2 and an 11x3, not really spectacular winds but that is what we run mostly due to the 12T rule in Europe)

Also I am very impressed with the service I received from Dewayne Harlow.
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Old 02-15-2005, 03:07 AM   #24
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can some one help me?

i am in Melbourne. anyone in BRCCC here?
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File Type: jpg img_1196.jpg (33.1 KB, 264 views)
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Old 02-15-2005, 05:56 PM   #25
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This product is actually not well meant for stock - which is what I generally run. The smallest replacement comm is .275ID and we run our stock comms down to .26 or lower and we get our best runs down there.

Is there any way that FussyBrush could get SMALLER comms? Say - down to .26?
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Old 02-15-2005, 05:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Franky
can some one help me?

i am in Melbourne. anyone in BRCCC here?
I'm not sure but I think that would be replaceable. What's the OD of the comm?
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:13 PM   #27
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6.135 .. it is a hand wound 12T X2 Fantom..
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:47 PM   #28
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That pic isnt very clear is there a chunk out of the copper or is it discolored that bad? I was always told not to take my stock comms no lower than .270. I have done a few stock motors with the replacement sleves and they work great. There wouldnt be much left to solder to if you went any smaller.
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:54 PM   #29
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yes.. a chunk is copper is missing, so, u suggest in the bin?
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:59 PM   #30
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.260 is awfully small......the plates should be seperating around .262 or so.....guess yer lucky.

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