Cleaning Bearings
11-17-2004, 12:52 PM
#1
Cleaning Bearings
Allright guys,
What is the best way to clean out bearings without using the motor spray method. Please do not include removal of seals. We all know that you have to remove those for cleaning.
Chris
What is the best way to clean out bearings without using the motor spray method. Please do not include removal of seals. We all know that you have to remove those for cleaning.
Chris
11-17-2004, 01:02 PM
#2
i tryed brake cleaner...seems to work.....
11-17-2004, 02:21 PM
#3
Not sure if this answers your question...but this is a little "essay" I did for the willis hobbies thread on how I clean my bearings...
Originally posted by Cardboard
if you have rubber shields, then it's easy.
http://www.avidrc.com/help/cleaning/?id=01
That's a good article on it. few little things
-stick the xacto knife in as little as possible. if you go in too deep you'll hit(and sratch) a bearing ball, basically cursing them to be forever gritty.
-if they aren't rubber, then get someone who has done this before to help you because popping off that c-clip holding on the metal and teflon shields is insanely hard unless you've done it before.
-don't put the seal back on. in on-road, just put the face of the bearing that dosen't have the shield pointing in. In other words, the still sealed side should be the one you see from the outside.
It makes future maitenence easier and will also free them up a bit.
-pick out a good oil. I use trinity royal oil, i don't really like it, but since i bought it, gotta finish it before buying another. it's too thin for my tastes. if you want them lubed for good, smudge half a matchstick head's worth of inline skate bearing grease into the bearing.
-you can clean bearings by soaking them(in a container) and shaking them in the container for 5 minutes. it dosen't work all that well but it's better than nothing.
i use an ultrasonic cleaner. Basically, I pop in the bearings with some citrus cleaner, open face of the bearings pointing down, and leave them in for about 8 three minute cycles. gets them spotlessly clean. whatever you use, do not stop cleaning until you hear that WHIZZZZZ of a clean bearing being spun.
-cleaners: the best two, imo, are citrus cleaner and denatured alcohol. i like citrus cleaner more mostly because it isn't as corrosive, gets grease better, smells better, and is safer. denatured alcohol is okay, but you have to be careful about leaving bearings soaking in there, because it will rust them. i've also had trouble with it and grease. it eats oil but not grease.
-no matter which cleaner you use, wash the bearings throughly using the sink. make sure you have that little drain blocker in place because they'll go right down if you drop them, and all your work will be wasted.
-after they are washed, bake them at anywhere between 120-150 degrees F(for metal bearins) for 30 minutes. It'll get rid of the remaining moisture. Lower the temperature accoringly if they are teflon or rubber sealed.
-check each bearing for grittiness. if one or two are gritty, just chuck them, because chances are the balls have deformed. You can keep cleaning them, they will eventually become somewhat useable. but they'll never be as good as the others.
-Apply one drop of oil. see above for oil instructions.
-jam the oiled bearing on a sharpened pencil. normally i spin the bearing with my fingers for 30 seconds, i've heard of using air compressors to spin the bearing, but that method probably blows out too much oil.
-set your throttle trim on your tx to the maximum, and run the car on 4-cells for 30 minutes like that. it'll get the bearings nice and broken in.
if you have rubber shields, then it's easy.
http://www.avidrc.com/help/cleaning/?id=01
That's a good article on it. few little things
-stick the xacto knife in as little as possible. if you go in too deep you'll hit(and sratch) a bearing ball, basically cursing them to be forever gritty.
-if they aren't rubber, then get someone who has done this before to help you because popping off that c-clip holding on the metal and teflon shields is insanely hard unless you've done it before.
-don't put the seal back on. in on-road, just put the face of the bearing that dosen't have the shield pointing in. In other words, the still sealed side should be the one you see from the outside.
It makes future maitenence easier and will also free them up a bit.
-pick out a good oil. I use trinity royal oil, i don't really like it, but since i bought it, gotta finish it before buying another. it's too thin for my tastes. if you want them lubed for good, smudge half a matchstick head's worth of inline skate bearing grease into the bearing.
-you can clean bearings by soaking them(in a container) and shaking them in the container for 5 minutes. it dosen't work all that well but it's better than nothing.
i use an ultrasonic cleaner. Basically, I pop in the bearings with some citrus cleaner, open face of the bearings pointing down, and leave them in for about 8 three minute cycles. gets them spotlessly clean. whatever you use, do not stop cleaning until you hear that WHIZZZZZ of a clean bearing being spun.
-cleaners: the best two, imo, are citrus cleaner and denatured alcohol. i like citrus cleaner more mostly because it isn't as corrosive, gets grease better, smells better, and is safer. denatured alcohol is okay, but you have to be careful about leaving bearings soaking in there, because it will rust them. i've also had trouble with it and grease. it eats oil but not grease.
-no matter which cleaner you use, wash the bearings throughly using the sink. make sure you have that little drain blocker in place because they'll go right down if you drop them, and all your work will be wasted.
-after they are washed, bake them at anywhere between 120-150 degrees F(for metal bearins) for 30 minutes. It'll get rid of the remaining moisture. Lower the temperature accoringly if they are teflon or rubber sealed.
-check each bearing for grittiness. if one or two are gritty, just chuck them, because chances are the balls have deformed. You can keep cleaning them, they will eventually become somewhat useable. but they'll never be as good as the others.
-Apply one drop of oil. see above for oil instructions.
-jam the oiled bearing on a sharpened pencil. normally i spin the bearing with my fingers for 30 seconds, i've heard of using air compressors to spin the bearing, but that method probably blows out too much oil.
-set your throttle trim on your tx to the maximum, and run the car on 4-cells for 30 minutes like that. it'll get the bearings nice and broken in.
11-17-2004, 02:25 PM
#4
unless they are metal shielded you can't clean them without removing the sheilds
its simple anyway, a pin under the shield and push up and the shield comes off..to put it back on just simple press it back in.
all i do is remove both shields (run with no shields anyway but this is what i used to do) and spray through the bearing with motor cleaner until it came out clear and the bearing span really freely..run a bit of lrp bearing oil on them and just give it a spin and fit it back into the car..works a treat.
but i heard break cleaner works pretty well..you can actually get bearing cleaner which will be better than break/motor cleaner and it lubes them at the same time.
its simple anyway, a pin under the shield and push up and the shield comes off..to put it back on just simple press it back in.
all i do is remove both shields (run with no shields anyway but this is what i used to do) and spray through the bearing with motor cleaner until it came out clear and the bearing span really freely..run a bit of lrp bearing oil on them and just give it a spin and fit it back into the car..works a treat.
but i heard break cleaner works pretty well..you can actually get bearing cleaner which will be better than break/motor cleaner and it lubes them at the same time.
11-17-2004, 02:40 PM
#5
using a nail punch and a funnel, place the bearing into the funnel with the punch sitting in the bearing. Pour Shellite into the funnel while it slowly drains into another container and spin the nail punch in the bearing until hte shellite has drained away.
Takes 2 minutes and does an awesome job.
Takes 2 minutes and does an awesome job.
11-17-2004, 02:41 PM
#6
Is it the same for teflon un rubba bearings?
11-17-2004, 02:43 PM
#7
metal shielded it will just run straight through..well not straight through it will lubricate the bearing.
but with rubber/teflon sealed i think you will have to remove atleast one seal.
but with rubber/teflon sealed i think you will have to remove atleast one seal.
11-17-2004, 04:30 PM
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Assuming there are no shields on both sides.
I use a film container and motor spray. Put all bearings in and shake (10 to 20 sec). If you put the film container in a motor spray cap, usually its a perfect fit and will catch what leaks out. Motorspray can generate some pressure. I take bearings out one by one lay them on a new klenex and wipe dry. I use a air bottle/compressor to blow out the dirt. I spin each bearing on a needle nose plyer to see how bad it is and it frees up the dirt. You can also look for any stray carpet fibers if that is your flavor.
Repeat process 2 to 3 times. Each time using new motor spray in a clean film container & klenex. Actually I like klenex in my box it is a cheap form of disposable rag.
When done oil....
In the future I hope to make my own ultrasonic cleaner.
Jeff
I use a film container and motor spray. Put all bearings in and shake (10 to 20 sec). If you put the film container in a motor spray cap, usually its a perfect fit and will catch what leaks out. Motorspray can generate some pressure. I take bearings out one by one lay them on a new klenex and wipe dry. I use a air bottle/compressor to blow out the dirt. I spin each bearing on a needle nose plyer to see how bad it is and it frees up the dirt. You can also look for any stray carpet fibers if that is your flavor.
Repeat process 2 to 3 times. Each time using new motor spray in a clean film container & klenex. Actually I like klenex in my box it is a cheap form of disposable rag.
When done oil....
In the future I hope to make my own ultrasonic cleaner.
Jeff
11-17-2004, 05:17 PM
#10
Tech Adept
I just got a set of Acer ceramics for my touring car and the instructions say not to remove the sheild but just use the bearig blaster with motor spray to clean them then add one drop of their sin lube. They have the rubber seal of some sort. How does the dirt come out without removing the sheilds? Or does the dirt not get in because the shield is never removed? They are buttery smooth though.
11-17-2004, 10:00 PM
#11
Originally posted by Hebiki
or you can buy the integy bearing cleaner for $20.. and not remove any seals. throw all your bearings in there..and let it sit until your rechargable batteries dies.. or until the motor spray evaporates.. repeat until there's no grease left.
or you can buy the integy bearing cleaner for $20.. and not remove any seals. throw all your bearings in there..and let it sit until your rechargable batteries dies.. or until the motor spray evaporates.. repeat until there's no grease left.
Originally posted by JimMcClure
I just got a set of Acer ceramics for my touring car and the instructions say not to remove the sheild but just use the bearig blaster with motor spray to clean them then add one drop of their sin lube. They have the rubber seal of some sort. How does the dirt come out without removing the sheilds? Or does the dirt not get in because the shield is never removed? They are buttery smooth though.
I just got a set of Acer ceramics for my touring car and the instructions say not to remove the sheild but just use the bearig blaster with motor spray to clean them then add one drop of their sin lube. They have the rubber seal of some sort. How does the dirt come out without removing the sheilds? Or does the dirt not get in because the shield is never removed? They are buttery smooth though.
The vibrating action works the dirt & grit out of the bearings. Gentley dry them off, add a drop of bearing lube, and you're finished (well, you still have to reinstall then back onto your car/truck/buggy).
TC
CoBroRa
11-18-2004, 04:57 AM
#12
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
WD40 in a vibrating tub,cause it`s petroleum based it`s dissolves all that crap in there with the need to take seales out
After wards just spray off with brake/motor spray reoil, royal/sewing machine oil, & off you go
This is what i do does`nt mean it`s right
After wards just spray off with brake/motor spray reoil, royal/sewing machine oil, & off you go
This is what i do does`nt mean it`s right
11-18-2004, 09:00 AM
#13
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
WD40 in a vibrating tub,cause it`s petroleum based it`s dissolves all that crap in there with the need to take seales out
WD40 in a vibrating tub,cause it`s petroleum based it`s dissolves all that crap in there with the need to take seales out
Then dry them real good before the PTFE treatment
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