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Old 11-16-2004, 03:08 AM   #16
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different opinions on this thread

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...hlight=zapping
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Old 11-16-2004, 12:01 PM   #17
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I kept records of my batteries for about 6 months. Here's what I did:

Initial charge/discharge cycle on my GFX's, record readings.
Discharge trayed until voltage was 0.
Deadshort for a few days.
Zap at 70 on my Integy 3300.
Let the cells rest for a day un deadshorted.

Tray them back to 0.
Charge/discharge cycle again, record readings.

Did this once a month and had the readings in an excel sheet.

ALL my packs had voltage increases and decreased average internal resistance according to the Turbo's. Runtime did not decrease from the initial readings. The voltage increases do eventually top out, as do the decreasing AIR numbers. I got almost 2 years worth of weekly racing out of those packs before they became practise packs.

All non-scientific findings by a club racer with too many toys No controlled environment testing (just in my bedroom), but I'll keep zapping and dead-shorting my batteries
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdwca
Burbs is correct in his assessment of maintenance zapping. From our testing we've seen virtually no benefit. The cells come up the same on the zapper. Also, as Burbs indicated, the maintenance zappers put out so little juice any subsequent welding/fusing of the plates normally does not occur.

As with anything though, YMMV.
So is it safe to say that "maintance zappers" are a waste of money as far as Ni-MH batteries are concerned? Some what good for reviving Ni-cads but because Ni-MH don't have memory issues, it's useless, right?
What about any zapping done after the initial zap? Like the service that surge offers. Does that help maintane a cells performance? If so, how and why?
Just trying to get a understanding of all this. thanks
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gutter Ball
I kept records of my batteries for about 6 months. Here's what I did:

Initial charge/discharge cycle on my GFX's, record readings.
Discharge trayed until voltage was 0.
Deadshort for a few days.
Zap at 70 on my Integy 3300.
Let the cells rest for a day un deadshorted.

Tray them back to 0.
Charge/discharge cycle again, record readings.

Did this once a month and had the readings in an excel sheet.

ALL my packs had voltage increases and decreased average internal resistance according to the Turbo's. Runtime did not decrease from the initial readings. The voltage increases do eventually top out, as do the decreasing AIR numbers. I got almost 2 years worth of weekly racing out of those packs before they became practise packs.

All non-scientific findings by a club racer with too many toys No controlled environment testing (just in my bedroom), but I'll keep zapping and dead-shorting my batteries
GutterBall,

what about charge/discharge rates, what do you use? do you use the pack more than once a month? 2 years usage with good~very good performance using the above routine?

Thanks. I might try that route.

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Old 11-16-2004, 07:59 PM   #20
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6 amp charge rate, .06 - .07 peak (0.04 for 4 cells), discharged remaining voltage at 20 amps on my Turbo down to 5.4v (3.6 for 4 cells) some guys say 30amps, but that gets the batts waaaaaay too hot if there's too much run time left in them....then tray and deadshort until next use.

I only use my race packs once a day. I have separate practice packs that I use multiple times a day. I know people say the gp3300's get better the 2nd or 3rd time they're run the same day, but the battery numbers are so good now, I'd rather save that extra "cycle" to keep track of the numbers

PS: I did not come up with the method, the top guy at our track did and finally shared it with me. So props to him He made me buy my own zapper and figure out what to zap them at though

So in my opinion, maintenance zappers do work on cells that have been taken care of.
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:03 PM   #21
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thanks for the info Gutter Ball.

when do you un-short the pack? just before charging or do you let the pack rest unshorted for a few hours before charging on race day?

sorry of the the numerous questions


Last edited by rough512; 11-16-2004 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:52 PM   #22
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The GFX WILL NOT charge a battery that has no or little voltage, it'll throw and error message. The Turbo 35 will charge no problem....so I use the 35 or my pit mate's Pit Bull to put a bit of charge in there (5 seconds or so) and then move it over to the GFX.

So I unshort and charge right away. If you only have a GFX, you may have to leave the pack for a bit for the voltage to go back up enough for the GFX to charge it.

No prob, I don't mind sharing info

I need to learn some motor tricks though....those tricks he still won't show me
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gutter Ball
I kept records of my batteries for about 6 months. Here's what I did:

Initial charge/discharge cycle on my GFX's, record readings.
Discharge trayed until voltage was 0.
Deadshort for a few days.
Zap at 70 on my Integy 3300.
Let the cells rest for a day un deadshorted.

Tray them back to 0.
Charge/discharge cycle again, record readings.

Did this once a month and had the readings in an excel sheet.

ALL my packs had voltage increases and decreased average internal resistance according to the Turbo's. Runtime did not decrease from the initial readings. The voltage increases do eventually top out, as do the decreasing AIR numbers. I got almost 2 years worth of weekly racing out of those packs before they became practise packs.

All non-scientific findings by a club racer with too many toys No controlled environment testing (just in my bedroom), but I'll keep zapping and dead-shorting my batteries
Hi Gutter Ball,

After deadshorted for few days, do you need to un deadshort the battery and wait for a while before zap it?
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:57 AM   #24
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Hey Gutter ball.......I couldn't agree more with your battery experiment results.........Iv'e been maintenence zapping on the dcx 3300 and dead shorting most of my packs for over a year now, with nothing but positive results all the way around.......especially with lowering the internal resistance(even on brand new packs).......try putting your GFX on the long lockout setting......that should take care of your error while charging a pack thats yet to re-bound from a long dead short or one thats just really low as you mentioned....... berNardLee.......maintenence zapping your cells right after you disconnect the short is the best way to have your cells as close to zero as possible......the longer you wait, the more the cells will rebound to 1.2 volts give or take.......not what you want
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:10 AM   #25
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Gutter Ball, the GFX WILL charge a dead shorted pack if you have the updated version! I'm not sure what the version number is (I think it is 5.7) The guy from Competion Electronics updated mine at the Touring car race at Scotty's last year. The upgrade has been available for a while.
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:15 AM   #26
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The easy super quick fix. If you your GFX will not charge your pack because the voltage is too low:

Connect the battery and go to motor run mode. Hit start and it will try to go, but then error. Then go to charge mode and it will take a charge no problem. The motor run sends enough current to wake the battery up a bit.
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:44 AM   #27
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Hey cool Thanks for the update and charge tips! Wow 5.7??! My GFX is still at version 1.41. Maybe I'll send my GFX with one of the guys going to Cleveland and he can get it updated for me! Assuming CE will be there of course. I wonder if they have any updates for the 35BL and Pitbull X3 as well?
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:54 AM   #28
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For the guys that are maintance zapping, are you using the voltage chart that xipp recommends you zap at or a different method of finding a voltage that gives good results?
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Old 11-18-2004, 06:03 AM   #29
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LJae.......In my experience, the zapping recomendation chart on the front of the unit has proven to be really close......
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Old 11-29-2004, 03:55 PM   #30
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Default dead shorting packs

What is the point of dead shorting.. I can understand putting the pack on a equlizer to get all the cells close in voltage.. but why deadshort? How does that make the battery better? I have an Integy 30 amd discharger and novak tray... so to dead short I let the discharger go full out on the lights... then connect a wire from pos to neg on the pack and that's it??? Sounds like a stupid question but I just want to be sure....
Jon.. you gave me those packs.. haven't used them yet .. I guess that is what those wires on the pack are?
Do you have any maint plans I should follow for those packs... ???
Thanks...
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