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Old 11-15-2011, 05:21 PM   #106
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I doubt I can top Wes' race report but here it goes.

Like Bruce said I suffered some very peculiar radio issues once qualifying started. I made it all the way through two days of practice without a hiccup, but I am thankful I got things sorted out.

So after turning a total of 5 laps in the first two rounds of qualifing, I borrowed a radio and receiver and got on the track for round 3. The track had finally grooved into something more normal and no longer felt like we were skipping between old groove from the nats layout and and virgin carpet. My car was way too stiff and the radio was foreign but I still got a decent run in to get resorted back to the top heat.

I round 4 Frank Calandra came out running on top looking to smash his own TQ, but he must has tapped out and/or faded because with only a few small mistakes I found myself in the lead and eventually taking the TQ in the final round by about 1.5-2 secs over Frank, Brian Bodine and Dave Erlich.

Before the mains I made some final small adjustments to my car and was back to something very close to what I ran at the IIC. I lost the lead at times in both of the first to mains but mistakes by the other drivers allowed me to win the event in two.

Find the setup sheet attached. Any questions feel free to post them here.

Does anyone have pictures of how that Tamale pod actually works?

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Old 11-15-2011, 05:29 PM   #107
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It's easy enough to explain. The bearing holders are machined pieces independent of the pod plates themselves. Where the bearing holders and the podplates meet the mated surfaces are serrated in 0.5mm increments. The bearing holders are slotted from the back so that the holder can moved up and down, be keyed into the pod plate at the desired ride height, and the screws tightened to hold everything together.

There are reference notches etched on the inside of the pod to give the user a visual reference that they are assembling everything correctly left and right. They are not easy to assemble incorrectly.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:36 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
It's easy enough to explain. The bearing holders are machined pieces independent of the pod plates themselves. Where the bearing holders and the podplates meet the mated surfaces are serrated in 0.5mm increments. The bearing holders are slotted from the back so that the holder can moved up and down, be keyed into the pod plate at the desired ride height, and the screws tightened to hold everything together.

There are reference notches etched on the inside of the pod to give the user a visual reference that they are assembling everything correctly left and right. They are not easy to assemble incorrectly.
Very nice explanation

Anyone else have pictures of the guts of the pod show them please

I think this design is to allow people to adjust the pod without taking out the axle? Kinda like the top?
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:05 PM   #109
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Will that "new old-school" front end bolt on to a crc without modding?
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:37 PM   #110
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Awesme Job Wes and Pete!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I think this design is to allow people to adjust the pod without taking out the axle? Kinda like the top?
yes you can adjust without removing the axle.

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Originally Posted by b_recliner View Post
Will that "new old-school" front end bolt on to a crc without modding?
yes
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:16 PM   #111
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Other than the usual things is there any top tips to building an old Skool front end?
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:09 PM   #112
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Anyone else have pictures of the guts of the pod show them please
There are some pictures of the prototype on the very bottom of this page.
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/Rev7Intro.html

The bottom right pic (you can click on it to enlarge) shows the machined channels in the bearing carriers.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:17 PM   #113
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Other than the usual things is there any top tips to building an old Skool front end?
Hi Tim,

About the only trouble people have with the Old School is snapping in the e-clips, onto the king pins.

Do the top e-clip (under the spring) 1st. A nice pair of small needle nose helps a ton.

To install the bottom e-clip, just slide it underneath the steering block (in between block and arm), and use the back side of your hobby knife to push it on to the king pin.

It's really pretty easy once you get the technique down.

Also, check the steering blocks for any flashing.

That's it.

Have fun.-Bruce
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:42 PM   #114
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Bruce-
Have or are you going to make or blocks to adjust the camber,castor and ride height of the old skool front end? We talked about it a little in Vegas.
Thanks
E
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:50 AM   #115
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I'm interested in the rev 7 sport with the carbon links and the tamale rear pod and was wondering if it can be purchased like that or would I be buying all the pieces separately? I've e-mailed speedmerchant sales but haven't heard back. Any info is appreciated.
Any Info?
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:18 AM   #116
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There are some pictures of the prototype on the very bottom of this page.
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/Rev7Intro.html

The bottom right pic (you can click on it to enlarge) shows the machined channels in the bearing carriers.
I see how it works now thank you best design I've seen so far and I'm guessing it an be adjusted faster than any other rear pod

Good job.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:54 AM   #117
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I see how it works now thank you best design I've seen so far and I'm guessing it an be adjusted faster than any other rear pod

Good job.
It only takes about 10 seconds to adj. Its very nice.
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:10 PM   #118
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Cool

Here are some nice close-ups of one of Pete's sweet builds.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...011/index.html

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Old 11-18-2011, 02:21 PM   #119
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Any Info?
You have a PM Alvin.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:33 AM   #120
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where can I get the brace for the old skool front end?
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