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Old 12-15-2011, 12:33 PM   #181
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Yes that is what I meant by green spooge. The manufacturer doesn't label it in cst and neither do we. It really doesn't matter, It's green. It's similar to anyone running anything Josh has designed running kyosho yellow. If you don't have green spooge I'd recommend 15k-20k diff lube.
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:56 PM   #182
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The linear sides are much more forgiving. You don't have to have exactly the same preload side to side, much easier to tweak. This is why everyone uses them in high grip conditions especially (look at Vegas cars, Blackstock's 12th, Cyrul's WGT) tons of people use them.

Everyone that tries them does not go any slower, they just notice a car that is easier to drive fast.
Thanks I'm gonna give them a try

Do they mostly use the 18 or 20 and 22 in 12th?
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:35 PM   #183
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Thanks I'm gonna give them a try

Do they mostly use the 18 or 20 and 22 in 12th?
I would start with .18 and if more steering is needed do .20. Its not often you'll run the .22 but I would try them too.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:34 AM   #184
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I am finding that on most tracks, with regular grip conditions, the difference between the springs is minimal. Their wire gauge is more noticeable on high-grip tracks, where softer becomes easier to drive without loosing steering.

I start with .18's on any new track I go to and change from there. If the grip get's insane then I almost always come back to .18's
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:52 AM   #185
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WGT setup for bumpy, Low-Med Traction.
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File Type: pdf WGT3_2011Hangar30.pdf (377.7 KB, 102 views)
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:25 PM   #186
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Just some Rev7 porn..


.18 springs for me also seem to work best, but I am noticing on our bumpier track using the .18 spring does not allow you to run as low of ride height on the carpet, my car bottoms out much easier with the .18 than the .20, so it handles the bumps better one way, worse in others. So its a trade off.. but the car is super smooth and easy to drive.
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:51 AM   #187
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Bruce,


Im still waiting on the lower rear graphite piece for the pod setup.. Remember the mis comunication we hadabout what chassis.. i had the inline or reg... I did recieve the parts from team tamale though... and i must say u guys put together quite a work of art between the 2 of you...
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:12 AM   #188
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Nice ride Wes
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:39 AM   #189
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Wes and Peter...those cars are inspiring! What servo saver are you fellows using that allow the servo to be taped flat to the chassis like that, or is something under the servo to raise it up a bit for clearance. When I investigated it on my car, the rounded, bottom part of the servo saver extended past the base of the servo and prevented me from laying it down. Thank you for your time gents.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:11 AM   #190
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Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
Just some Rev7 porn..


.18 springs for me also seem to work best, but I am noticing on our bumpier track using the .18 spring does not allow you to run as low of ride height on the carpet, my car bottoms out much easier with the .18 than the .20, so it handles the bumps better one way, worse in others. So its a trade off.. but the car is super smooth and easy to drive.
I remember looking at a pic of your Rev7 from the "best/cleanest electronics install" thread and thinking how clean it looked. I went back to find it and noticed you were previously runny a Tekin.

How do you like the LRP compared to the Tekin? Any reason why you switched?

Btw, car looks great. Inspiring me to trade in my 12R5.1 for a Speed Merchant

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Speedmerchant Rev.7 Sport
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:44 PM   #191
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Wes

I see a different centre shock location on your car, moved forward .250 or so
Development parts?
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:03 PM   #192
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Wes and Peter...those cars are inspiring! What servo saver are you fellows using that allow the servo to be taped flat to the chassis like that, or is something under the servo to raise it up a bit for clearance. When I investigated it on my car, the rounded, bottom part of the servo saver extended past the base of the servo and prevented me from laying it down. Thank you for your time gents.
The servo is cut out to allow the servo saver to protrude "through" the chassis but does not dip below the chassis itself. All Speedmerchant chassis are cut like this, on something like a CRC you may need to cut a hole in the chassis to run a flat servo.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:09 PM   #193
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I went back to find it and noticed you were previously runny a Tekin.

How do you like the LRP compared to the Tekin? Any reason why you switched?
What about this esc question Wes?

Thanks
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:09 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
I remember looking at a pic of your Rev7 from the "best/cleanest electronics install" thread and thinking how clean it looked. I went back to find it and noticed you were previously runny a Tekin.

How do you like the LRP compared to the Tekin? Any reason why you switched?

Btw, car looks great. Inspiring me to trade in my 12R5.1 for a Speed Merchant
I did not like the compromise in weight distribution from right to left that running a receiver pack or booster caused, the car was a touch heavier on the battery side always and I could not move my transponder over to adjust for that.

The LRP is easier to use, no booster (which had failed on me twice) and no receiver pack. For blinky it seems to work just fine, and I think with the newest firmware it feels like it is going to be good enough for boosted - but I have not ran it yet in boost - bench testing though it sounds pretty fast. Also with this setup the car is now 731-736 grams (depending on scale.)

Performance wise I like the feel of the LRP. It feels much smoother than the Tekin, and in blinky classes feels more ligitament than running the Tekin, IMO.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:10 PM   #195
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Thanks for the info.

Am I seeing the pic above correctly? Did you true the outer few mms of your front tires down to the wheel? Effectively narrowing the front tire/contact patch?
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